Worn steering rack in Outback 1997 ?

valerian · Post by **valerian** » Fri Feb 01, 2013 12:36 am

I had a major engine repair of Outback 1997 by a reputable independent Subaru shop. They also told me that the steering rack was worn, and needed to be repaired ASAP.

When I took my car to them for servicing next time, they seemed to be short on time. The mechanic told me the steering rack had a play. The play was noticeable, but he said it was not dangerous to drive. The steering liquid apparently was not leaking. He said the new steering rack would cost me $900. Anyway, as for me, the steering was not imprecise, so that I decided to leave it at that, at least for a while.

A few days ago, I took my car to a tyre shop to change the tyres. The shop mechanic showed to me that he could rattle the wheels, about 1 cm amplitude. He said the plastic bushings were likely to be gone, and suggested to change the cores of the rack on both sides ($150 each, new aftermarket ones), plus steering tips, plus the rubber boots. Altogether it would cost $500. (Besides selling tyres, they do minor mechanic jobs.)

So... I am thinking why the quotation of the latter guy was so low. Perhaps, the fomer guy included the pinion, and the latter did not. Whose suggestion should I follow ? Thanks.

valerian · Post by **valerian** » Fri Feb 01, 2013 10:37 am

I got advice from a colleague of mine that the $900 job could involve reconditioning the steering rack including replacement of the seals. If the steering rack is original, then the seals might start leaking in the future. While the $500 might not include doing the little things like that.

tex · Post by **tex** » Fri Feb 01, 2013 1:20 pm

I got quoted about a grand to replace a worn steering rack by pedders, then I took it to my local specialist howard revell and turns out it was the rack bushes so i walked out with change from $50.

thunder039 · Post by **thunder039** » Fri Feb 01, 2013 2:13 pm

i think the price difference is due to 2 things.
firstly the dealer will likely charge more per hour labour then a service centre.
secondly the dealer will likely use genuine parts, rather then the after market parts that the service centre quoted you

AlpineRaven · Post by **AlpineRaven** » Sun Feb 10, 2013 8:20 am

Hmm go for 3rd Opinion - Go to Pedders and get 28 point check basically they will give you a good report of what is wrong around that area. You will be shocked when they give you the report of what is wrong and what needs replacing. Only will cost you about $14 or something - its not expensive.
Cheers
AP

valerian · Post by **valerian** » Mon Feb 18, 2013 12:18 am

AlpineRaven wrote: Go to Pedders and get 28 point check basically they will give you a good report of what is wrong around that area. You will be shocked when they give you the report of what is wrong and what needs replacing.

Mmm... OK. I presume they will advise to change the steering rack for a reconditioned one, which will cost $900 or so (just like the independent Subaru mechanic advised me). I know it without a report.

Anyway, it does not hurt to get another quotation.

valerian · Post by **valerian** » Wed Jun 05, 2013 12:06 am

The steering rack was worn and had a play in it. No leak from seals. The well-known place suggested me to take the steering rack off and send it away to a specialist for reconditioning. They said the recondioned rack would cost around $900. It occured to me fixing steering racks was not their domain.

Instead, I asked them only to change two split boots. It costed me $220.

Since then, I read on the (American) Internet that changing the boots and inner rods would not be financially efficient. They said it's better to put a reconditioned rack which would come together with the new seals, boots, rods, and rod tips.

Now I have doubts if I have done a right thing... should I have asked to get a reconditioned steering rack, or it was OK to just replace the boots ? (In the latter case, the rest of the parts could fail in near future). Or, should I have taken the car for fixing to the steering rack specialist who would be known for charging less ?

(When I turned up at home with the serviced and fixed car, and showed the total invoice to my wife, she did not want to let me in. She said I should stop throwing money at the car, and instead buy something new which would eventually cost the same.)

Post by **yarney** » Wed Jun 05, 2013 4:26 pm

valerian wrote: Instead, I asked them only to change two split boots. It costed me $220.

Since then, I read on the (American) Internet that changing the boots and inner rods would not be financially efficient. They said it's better to put a reconditioned rack which would come together with the new seals, boots, rods, and rod tips.

$220 for boots that's over the top:mad: if you got the inner rods done that's good:)

When i was buying my GT Forester the guy i bought it off said his mechanic told him the steering rack was worn. The quote to replace it was $1500 the seller said to me he would take $1500 off the price and for me to get it fixed. I saved $1495 doing it that way it was only a loose power steering belt:o New belt $5
It pays to get more than one quote

Jan

valerian · Post by **valerian** » Thu Jun 06, 2013 11:19 pm

yarney wrote:$220 for boots that's over the top:mad: if you got the inner rods done that's good:)

I specifically asked -- this price did not include anything besides boots and labour.

I presume each boot costs $30, and it takes 40 minutes (at $60 ph) to put each boot on. Altogether $140. Short of $220.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sun Jun 09, 2013 12:48 am

This could be a number of things but I highly doubt it's the actual rack itself. Some things it could be:

- worn bushes
- worn rack ends (aka tie rod ends)
- worn tie rods

I reckon between the bushes and the rack ends you'll find your slop. It's very unusual for the actual rack and pinion to wear out these days - I've got an L series with +300k km on the clock, original steering rack and no issues.

It's hard to diagnose not seeing the car, but to fully understand what we're telling you, you need to know you're way around these parts. All work can be done with the rack still in the car...

I'll leave it at that for now.

Cheers

Bennie

valerian · Post by **valerian** » Mon Jun 10, 2013 12:27 pm

Yes, Benny, you are right -- two shops told me that the tie rod ends had a slop.

Anyway, this guys know what they are doing. The car handles better now and drives smoother. I attribute it to the wheel alignment (the previous one was done 2 months ago when changing tyres), new oil, and possibly adjusting the steering rack workings.

Is the steering rack and rods adjustment lasts a year or two, then it was worth the money.