Roof lining...

[Subaruba...]

So i just bought an '89 L-series Tourer with a few bits and peices but one thing that shits me off is the roof lining has collapsed. All the adhesive glue has worn out, and the material is just hanging by the little round push in things in the roof. Now my thought was to find some sort of areosole sprey adhesive and stick it back up there, but surely other people have come across similar issues, and im wondering if anyone can give me some advice on what they might have done re: re lining with new material, and if so, what material, or methods of putting it back up. Much appreciated,

Josh

[Chris_Rogers]

So i just bought an '89 L-series Tourer with a few bits and peices but one thing that shits me off is the roof lining has collapsed. All the adhesive glue has worn out, and the material is just hanging by the little round push in things in the roof. Now my thought was to find some sort of areosole sprey adhesive and stick it back up there, but surely other people have come across similar issues, and im wondering if anyone can give me some advice on what they might have done re: re lining with new material, and if so, what material, or methods of putting it back up. Much appreciated,

Josh

only thing I have done in the past was remove the lining get the same material again , clean the roof mould thoroughly and then spray sellys contact adhesive (1lt can need a spray gun.) over both and reapply then put it back in.

[SuBaRiNo]

As Chris has said this works very well... on every Subi i have owned i have removed the roof lining... cleaned it and applied quick grip glue (In a tin from K-mart) and recovered the roof in black vynal... vynal works well because it can be stretched. Vynal can be purchased from mostfabric shops.

The spary on glue could be easier but because i had good results from the otehr stuff before i stuck with that.

Dave

[Suby Wan Kenobi]

I have used the contact in a can and made a series of small holes in the hood lining with a needle then sprayed in the holes waited 15mins and then push the lining back where it goes and seems to be still working fine.

[subanator]

I have used the contact in a can and made a series of small holes in the hood lining with a needle then sprayed in the holes waited 15mins and then push the lining back where it goes and seems to be still working fine.

Yes thats what I had in mind too, havent done this yet, thinking that some craft shops sell adhesive in cans too. (clear contact).

[Fury]

From the point of view from an ex motor trimmer ( which I no longer wish to do ) there are no long term short cuts.

remove the lining mould ( with care cause they bust) it really doesnt take that long, strip the old fabric, seal the fibrerous crap that everyone uses for hoodlinings, with a flexible lacquor ( even bond crete!) . Sand off any bumps. cut new material ( available from any motor trimmer ( who can order it for you) or trimmers suppliers (such as Nolan Wharehouses - in capital cities) Use a HR rated , sprayable contact glue ( std glue lasts around 2 years before it starts to let go) needs around 60psi, cause its still thick. ( use a spray putty gun if you can, as the nozzel is bigger)

Needs to have 1 layer on the new material and 2 layers on the muolding.

Lay brooms, dowles, timber ( light supports) accross the moulding, about 30 cm apart, lay material on the top.

starting at 1 end touch the front edge. align the rear edge, with a small amount of pressure. with someone drawing pressure backwards, remove the supports, 1 at a time, working out to the sides from the centre.
dont be tempted to do this too quickly.

Surface must be tacky, not wet before you start. ( around 5 min is usually ok at around 20 degrees)
leave around 5cm each side for turnover.

completion time r and r, 2 - 3 hrs.

go over it with a roller, after you are done, to compress the glue.

air bubbles and wrinkles, do NOT come out after.

work from the centre, all the time, like 30 deg, 45 deg, 60 deg etc. do not work with the grain, as you will get air and stretch the material. sideways stretch should be almost non existant, but a light holding of the material, with one hand, whilsed diagonally smoothing with the other is ok.

start lightly and once that section is down ok, then apply an over pressure, making sure not to miss anything.

piece of cake.

the reason why it falls, is the glue breaks down the thin foam that the material is bonded to, after a number of years. It also breaks down the fibre moulding. this is why it needs to be re sealed.

long way around, yes, but this is why a trim shop charges so much. I did one last year, with out sealing, and it is letting go in the concave spaces near trims and handles.

Give me another $5, for every lining I have done in my life, and I'd be rich.

edit.
a lot of that cheap spray glue, lasts around 10 minutes.sometimes it works and sometimes it doesnt.
if you dont want to go to this much trouble, dont expect it to last too long. I am not telling you that this is the only way to do it, just how a trimmer would do it.

Good luck.
chris

[GTlegs]

Where can such glue be bought?

[vincentvega]

this is the next job on my list aswell. got my new tinting last week, just gotta get the roof lining back up on the roof now

[Fury]

Nolan group or look under motor trimmers supplies. I get it in a 20 ltr, but is avaliable in 4 lt and probably a 1lt as well

the other names for Nolans are Nolan wharehouses, Nolan O'rourke or any makor trimming supply place like Simonson Australia.

brands I have used are Anchorweld superstick HR
3m hr.
nightingale hr clear contact ( I think the number was 308)

Make sure you dont get a red tint as it bleeds through
I will try and find the website for nolans and post it later.