Intermittent wheel shudder - CV?

[dibs]

hi guys i got a similar shuder to i did a post ealier about it but havent had time to do any work on it yet only to replace the unies when i first bought the brumby. mines more noticable when i back of at about 80 ks. had 4oo kilos in it yesterdaymade no diference.

o the 400 kilos was my birthday present . now i got a lathe in my workshop. hapy birthday to meeeeeeeeeeeee



dibs

[DavesB4]

Can I ask who the supplier of your CV Shaft was??

I have been talikng to a guy in Auburn and was just about to buy a shaft from him for my RX Turbo - they are a bit hard to find.

I would hope it isn't this guy.

[Matatak]

With the L's two piece tail shaft you can take out the last half of the tail shaft and still safely drive with the first section in the car - that said, the first section's uni joint could be the culprit anyway...

Bennie

if the rear half of the shaft is disconnected from the differential. then i wouldnt expect it to spin so u wont feel any vibrations if the front unijoint is screwed.

when the tailshaft is in it only spins as the rear wheels are spinning the Diff which in turn spins the tailshaft. but theyre is no drive from the gearbox to spin the shaft unless in 4WD.


on another note. how where the Inner and Outer Tie Rod Ends that attach to the steering rack. they can cause vibrations and shuddering if theyre is play in them. especially coming thru the steering wheel.

if the Tailshaft Unis are screwed id expect the shuddering to be coming more thru the floor where it is said the Front passenger wheel is the one shuddering. (how did you determine this?)

if nothing else fixes it. how is ur clutch?

[SUBYDAZZ]

I'll second that suggestion, tailshaft uni joints can definitely cause this symptom.

Should this not only cause the symptom when in 4WD though?

Subaru tailshaft uni joints are the "non replaceable" type. This means they can be replaced but it's just abit more difficult. Any good driveshaft/tailshaft workshop can still do it for you.

The MY / Brumby was the replaceable type FYI. Later were not as you've said.

...cut an empty Coke can in half...

I cannot stress how important the "empty" part is, especially if you've dropped it or shaken it up before you make the first cut...Very well worded.

[AndrewT]

haha yes, empty cans work best.

The problem can definitely still be there when in front wheel drive. The tailshaft still spins around regardless of whether it's under load or not. If it's off balance or has a shoddy uni joint this will cause vibrations.

[Goon]

Strangely enough going through eliminating vibrations, shudders and rattles myself, so far:- front discs machined, new cv's, bearings regreased(mechanics chose this, i wanted them replaced but @#$%%* know it alls' can't help themselves can they?)- new tyres, front end inspected(same mechanic, duh!)-new brake pads, everything checked for tension..

On the rear: new tyres, brake shoes, drums checked for out of round, removed cv's, renewed bearings both sides, bled all brakes said five hail marys and still going.

new cv's going in tomorrow, might pull apart tailshaft as listed above, rear shocks are new and rear bushes are old but still good.. so could be radius arm and bushes, front bearings, wrong/unsuitable brake pads, dodgy front struts & springs, damaged trailing arms(had them out for bearing & brake renewal) failing engine/gbox mounts or twisted body....nah it's probably the fat b#@%$&* behind the wheel! Ah well, new gear in means more fun out!

[subalex]

LOL! Goon.. gotta love the story..

Thanks again fellas for all your input here. In answer to all of you so far:

Regarding the tailshaft... yep, I've been checking that every time I get under there for play. I give it a good heave ho in every direction to try to find some play in it but it always feels tight so I leave that idea alone. In the back of my mind I have thought about it being a contributor to the problem since I have gone over a few tracks near home to check out the ground clearance and ramp over in particular. I've come very close to hugging the ground so I guess I could have bent it in the process...... that said... what the hey... I'll go and change it over for my spare one in the garage. Rule it out. Still, as Matatak said, a bent, or out of balance, tailshaft would only cause vibration through the seat of your pants rather than through the steering.

Regarding the brand of the CV: it's an A&L brand. It's an Australian business group that has their parts manufactured in Korea. I was sceptical when this no-name brand turned up at my doorstep so I checked it out before even installing them (They're online). The first batch they sent me were Couplertec and they were no good either. The last batch of decent CV's I got I bought bought from Repco and they lasted very well. Unless anyone has some better, and cheaper priced idea, I'm going to get some more from them before the weekend.

Matatak also asked how I know it's the front left CV that's dodgy... basically, it's the only one that's been changed prior to these problems and when I showed the movement in the inner joint (the DOJ) to a number of mechanics (one even a CV specialist) they didn't like the look of it at all. As they and I agree, usually there is play found in the outer CV joint. You can go 300, 000 k's or more on a CV shaft before the inner dies. The outer CV is the part that really has to do the most work and dies first. Considering I've only put a few hundred on these before seeing a real problem with the inners and nothing with the outers then they're obviously *$&* from the factory.

Ok, enough writing for tonight friends. I must look for a new home. My landlord is selling up so my family and I are expected to be out of here by mid next holidays. Priorities being priorities, my Subie is firmly in 2nd place.

I'll let you know how it all goes with a new CV and changed over tailshaft. Brand recommedations still welcome.... also welcome would be a house for me my wife and our 5 kids if you happen to know of one near Kellyville, Sydney.

[subalex]

I've just been shaking my head in amazement these last few minutes. I just got off the phone with the fellow who sent me these A&L CV shafts... the dodgy ones. He was happy for me to just send them back to him and he'd give me a refund. However, he also reassured me that the quality of the products have improved and basically swung me enough to try out some more of their latest CV's instead of getting a refund. So, in a few days I'd expect to recieve four new CV's. Yep, you read it right... let's say it's an apology given in stock.

Please let me be the first to plant my boot in my own backside, pull my underwear over my head and shout "I'm a complete fool!" from the corridor of an insane asylum if I find that these CV's are no better. Once I rehabilitate and remove the straight jacket I'll immediately send them back for a refund.

This weekend is an opportunity to change over the tailshaft. Perhaps my kids will then be able to open a fizzy drink in the back seat without it exploding.

Cheers