Suby broke down, possible timing belt?

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Mon Jan 02, 2012 11:48 am

El_Freddo wrote:So long as the passenger's side cam is aligned at 12 o'clock and the flywheel is on those three little marks you'll be sweet so long as you've rotated the crank shaft ONE ROTATION then put on the second belt. Doing this and then turning the dizzy 180 degrees will not run the engine.

However,

NOT rotating the crank once between belt installs will only ever have the engine run on one side, you can rotate the dizzy 180 degrees until the cow comes home but it will continue to run on only one side of the engine, the dizzy rotation will simply make it run on the other bank (left or right) from what it was running previously.
This is what got me and I couldn't get my head around it for some time back then!

Cheers

Bennie

Sorry Bennie but I'll have to disagree. If you have the engine flywheel one the 3 small timing belt marks and the cam pulley marks at 6 and 12 O'clock, then the engine will run (subject to the dizzy being correct or 180deg out) I can tell you this as I have done more than 100 EA82 timing belts in my time. The reason you turn the crank 360deg is because if you have fitted the first belt (as per manual) at 12o'clock, then rotate engine and fit second belt also at 12o'clock. This will give you one up and one down on the pulley makes, as the crank will rotate 2 times to the camshaft only once. Hence the term four stroke engine.

Best for anyone unsure, is to follow the manual. My method is just halving the process.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Mon Jan 02, 2012 1:20 pm

me think Mr Paul is saying you can position the cams in correctly and chuck all the belts on without a crank rotation, as in marker up on one side, marker down on other side, slap the belts on, turn whole thing to check your story and bingo she is a runner.... me thinks

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Mon Jan 02, 2012 4:14 pm

steptoe wrote:me think Mr Paul is saying you can position the cams in correctly and chuck all the belts on without a crank rotation, as in marker up on one side, marker down on other side, slap the belts on, turn whole thing to check your story and bingo she is a runner.... me thinks

Me thinks you are correct sir.. sorry if it doesn't sound right when I type it. I'm not really the typing/explaining type.. I find it easier to do than explain

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Mon Jan 02, 2012 6:53 pm

some times it takes less effort and time to actually gets something done, than it does to think about it too

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Wed Jan 04, 2012 2:00 pm

RSR 555 wrote:Sorry Bennie but I'll have to disagree. If you have the engine flywheel one the 3 small timing belt marks and the cam pulley marks at 6 and 12 O'clock, then the engine will run (subject to the dizzy being correct or 180deg out) I can tell you this as I have done more than 100 EA82 timing belts in my time. The reason you turn the crank 360deg is because if you have fitted the first belt (as per manual) at 12o'clock, then rotate engine and fit second belt also at 12o'clock. This will give you one up and one down on the pulley makes, as the crank will rotate 2 times to the camshaft only once. Hence the term four stroke engine.

Best for anyone unsure, is to follow the manual. My method is just halving the process.

No, what I'm saying is that by following the process you can't go wrong. I know that you've done many belt changes, but for those that haven't done any before it's easier to do the rotation IMO.

steptoe wrote:me think Mr Paul is saying you can position the cams in correctly and chuck all the belts on without a crank rotation, as in marker up on one side, marker down on other side, slap the belts on, turn whole thing to check your story and bingo she is a runner.... me thinks

Yes I get that Jonno. But as I've said, for those who are doing it for the first time it would be best to follow the instructions rather than take a trade trick.

Cheers

Bennie

indy · Post by **indy** » Wed Jan 04, 2012 10:22 pm

Would like to thank everyone for their help, as it was all spot on and saved a whole lot of headaches, it was the left hand timing belt that snapped. and you were all completley right about the timing belts. got it running this afternoon, on my way to work was driving and it turned off. was hard to kick back over, when it did wouldnt idle at all. popped the bonnet the carby bowl was filled with fuel and fuel was leaking out a gasket on the carby?? had to park the car, going back in the morning to check it out, realised left the vacuum advance hose off the dizzy. could this cause this? or would that cause different problems?

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Thu Jan 05, 2012 12:23 am

indy wrote:Would like to thank everyone for their help, as it was all spot on and saved a whole lot of headaches, it was the left hand timing belt that snapped. and you were all completley right about the timing belts. got it running this afternoon, on my way to work was driving and it turned off. was hard to kick back over, when it did wouldnt idle at all. popped the bonnet the carby bowl was filled with fuel and fuel was leaking out a gasket on the carby?? had to park the car, going back in the morning to check it out, realised left the vacuum advance hose off the dizzy. could this cause this? or would that cause different problems?

You've probably got a blocked fuel jet in the top of the carbie's fuel bowl.

As for the vacuum advance hose you'll find that it will run better with it connected, I'm surprised you didn't find it down on performance more than usual. It should run better with this hose connected if tuned properly

Cheers

Bennie

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Thu Jan 05, 2012 7:10 am

can 'o' worms these old Subies, but great if you have the time and patience to learn to fix and maintain them.
To answer your question on vac advance line - not the cause of stalling - that'd be called flooding - not your work on the belts. The vac line off would just suck some air and dust in the unblocked (even though instructions somewhere say block it off) giving a funny idle and no advance.

Maybe you have loose fuel hose clamp or perished fuel hose. TAKE EXTREME CARE with fuel leaks as stray spark and maybe hot exhaust can ignite it, your engine bay, maybe the environment, yourself and othr innocents included......