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just resoloved the problem to my many annoying dramas with my rear right hub. so theres a little story about my recent happenings here first if you'd like to read. else skip to last paragraph.

for starters i have no shaft in the rear because of the welded diff and this has obviously let some dirt and sand into the rear bearings. last year on my way home the outer bearing completely disintergrated and left my wheel wobbling down the freeway like it was gonna come off completely. so i attempted changing the bearings over, the outer one was easy but i couldnt get the rear one out so i greased it up and left it in there- seemed pretty good.

well on tuesday it completely munched itself too while i was 1km from my home doing my first test run with replacement turbo. i couldnt move anywhere without the wheel falling out of the hub and almost completely off. as the stub axle had no way of being held in. it was a sad sight having to get it tilt tray'd home (1KM!!!)
so anyway i took the whole trailing arm/hub into the workshop today and got new bearings put in.

Id like to swap the other side myself instead of paying $250ish the only thing stopping me is the weird twist threaded ring thing in the back- has anyone got any tips on gettting this out? and also do you really need a press to get the rest of the bearing shell thing out? or is there something else you can use?
or has no one else had my bad luck with bearings.

cheers matt

Interesting... I have only had issues with the front bearings failing because the full up with water / mud.

The way I remove the ring is:-

The outer lip will be 'dinted' in to stop the ring undoing under normal conditions. Using a pin punch bash it back out. Using the same pin punch hit the cut out in the ring in the anti-clock wise direction (it may take a bit of work) & the ring should loosen up.

to replace the wheel bearing it is heaps easier to remove the whole arm and grip the hub in a vice with the inside retaining ring pointing up.
First clean up the greasy mess, I use a wire brush and brakeclean.
Then as Xtreame RX sugests use a cold chisel to bend out the tab holding the ring in place on one of the four slots in the tab.
Use a large punch or cold chizle to tap the ring around using the four slots, this can be hard work but resist the temptation to hit it to hard as you will stuff the retaining ring.
Once ring is out you can tap out the whole assembly using a rubber mallet or similar on the end of the stub axle.
Clean and check bearings, replace as needed.
Ensure any new bearings are hard up against the outboard coller on the stub shaft, I use the one piece bearing kits as they are easier IMHO.
Grease up and assembly is reverse of above.
If you have in/out play in the stub axle then the bearings are not seated hard against the outer coller on the stubsharf or the retaining ring is not done up tight enough.

Yep those guides are spot on. Not as difficult as some people make out but still a bit more involved than the fronts.
I did mine both sides on the car when putting the Crossbred kit in and yeah, would definitely have been easier removing the trailing arms and doing it on the workbench.

ah well thats helped me already from here. i didnt realise the tab had been pushed in to stop ring from coming out, no wonder it wouldnt move.

the two bearings sit inside a outer casing thing- which i get new with the bearings. this seems to sit very tight within the hub. whats the go with getting these out?

once you have removed the retaining ring on the back the whole lot should come out ok using a rubber hammer, once you have the stub axle out you will probably need to get the bearings pressed off and the new ones pressed on - cheap and easy to get an eng shop to do this.
Does this anwser your Q?