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Size of Castle nut

Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 11:48 am
by subybrumby
Quick question:- (2 actually)

What is the size of the castle nut holding the hubs onto the stub axles on an MY (brumby) front and rear. In other words, what size socket do I need to buy for this job...(Sick of skinned knuckles)

and...Any tips for releasing the axles off of the splines of a rear end retrieved from a wreck when they have grown on there. I am trying all the usual, WD40, soft hammer etc...any suggestions??? (Yes, I got the roll pin out)

Thanks fellas (Trev):confused:

Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 3:07 pm
by dfoyl
36mm on the first question.

Same problem here on the 2nd...I got the pass-side off the back of my 82 wagon but can't get the drivers side off :(

Dean.

Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 3:14 pm
by tex
Go to your local workshop and ask if they can rattle it off or have you tried tightening the nuts first. Worst comes to worst get them to heat the nuts up with an oxy and cool the shaft to break the bond or cut the nut with a grinder or hacksaw and Finnish them off with a cold chissel in an ant clockwise direction.
Also from memory the socket is a 26mm but someone should have this knowledge on hand.

Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 3:14 pm
by subybrumby
I've got it soaking with WD40 at the moment. Time is on my side, I'll wait??
Thanks for the Nut size, Gonna pick up a socket and bar tomorrow, being going to for a while.

Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 3:15 pm
by stamp_licker
on the stubborn ones i use a puller,flat bar with 3 holes and a nut and bolt in the middle.On the hub you'll see a couple of threads ,2 bolts in there and wind away.Equal pressure seems to get em moving.

Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 3:18 pm
by subybrumby
I've got the trailing arm with the intact hub and axle attached on the bench. I want to get the axle off of the hub without damaging the CV's on the axle.

Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 3:35 pm
by tex
Don't hold it against me for sugesting this but put tv hub in a vice and use a soft hammer or failing that use a BFH with a piece of pine or soft wood between the shaft and the hammer.
P.S. For those doing this on a liberty take the dissengage the handbrake first it helps.

Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 4:49 pm
by rob83ke70
if you can get a puller of some kind (be as creative as you like) on it, then use it, they work wonders. heating it up a bit with the oxy and cooling it also will work wonders, but you might have to repack the cv with fresh grease. don't have to heat anything up ridiculously hot either.

Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 6:56 pm
by subybrumby
Thanks fellas, I've got the axle off the spline. The hammer and wood did the job. It came slowly at first then it was off. I'll pick up a socket tomorrow and try the castle nuts. I have a rattle gun. I've got them soaking in WD 40 at the moment.

If I fail with that, I'll cut them off as previously mentioned by tex. I have a puller here for the hub when I get there, then I need to tackle the locking ring at the back of the hub. Might have to make a special tool for this, we'll see. (Love a challenge, I'll get there)

My problem has been this showthread.php?t=7167

My plan is to insert replacement half axles into the hubs of my Brumby from a donor MY wagon. I got them yesterday. The brumby has rear discs but I am not expecting trouble there. The matching axles from the wagon will be going to the CV shop this week for service and re booting. The hubs will be serviced, new bearings if warranted and seals. These replacement axles and stubs are as tight as on the splines which is what I'm after..I'll have 4wd again. I've been running around the last few months with no back axles.

Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 9:48 pm
by subybrumby
(Drum roll...ta.. da) Bought an impact socket ($15) for my rattle gun and the size is 36Ml. Both nuts came off this afternoon after about a 30 second attempt. Thanks to all who gave advice. Pushing on with the job this weekend with shaft removal, bearing inspection, repack,new seals, axle re boot etc. Looking forward to warmer weather here....shed's cold.