NO POWER AT THE COIL ?? ea82t

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sb2752
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NO POWER AT THE COIL ?? ea82t

Post by sb2752 » Sun Jan 10, 2010 10:03 am

After convertion to efi in my L i carnt get any power at the coil iv checked the power at the fuse and its 12v. anybody have any idea?? cheers jarrod

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phillatdarwin
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Post by phillatdarwin » Sun Jan 10, 2010 12:39 pm

trace the wires back and keep testing

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shuffbag
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Post by shuffbag » Sun Jan 10, 2010 2:28 pm

if you have swapped in another lot of wiring for the efi, make sure all the wires that should have power still do after the swap.

with my ej swap i chopped my own loom and a portion was missing power. a lot of head pain but finaly figured it out.
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sb2752
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Post by sb2752 » Sun Jan 10, 2010 4:19 pm

yer iv been checking all the wires theres no power at the fuel pump aswell
this things doing my head in lol just when you think uv worked it out somthing ells happans lol

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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Sun Jan 10, 2010 9:08 pm

posted in yer other NA EA82T ECU post and have you run car before conversion? have you looked at Fusible links close to battery, should be OK if you got red lights in dash

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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Sun Jan 10, 2010 9:11 pm

Know much about efi yet? The ECU only supply power to fuel pump on initial IGN on for three to five seconds then off until bastard is running then back on while running. Must be a signal from coil like a tacho signal even if you have no tacho in dash, tachometric relay circuit in ECU

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sb2752
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Post by sb2752 » Sun Jan 10, 2010 9:56 pm

hi steptoe thanks for trying to help me. the car was running before, its an 88 wagon and was carby. one day i was on ebay and saw a ea82t convertion kit i thought i could do with a turbo as it just made it up hills lol
anyway i did the convertion ( mostly headaches ) went to kick her in the guts and she didnt go
I checked everything im very sus about the ecu as it looks like its had it
could this be possible if the ecu is fryed.
cheers jarrod

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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Mon Jan 11, 2010 8:15 am

If this was me I would be (1) powering up fuel pump directly from a fused battery. I used a 12V sealed lead acid battery, the small ones I pick up from scrap metal joints (2) power direct to coil POS see your other posts replies (3) confirm if this is four plug ECU (think you posted before as a four plugger?

I would also disconnect the fuel pump from car when do this and disconnect wire from coil to ecu as well for experiment and I would remember to disconnect all temporary power after attempts

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shuffbag
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Post by shuffbag » Mon Jan 11, 2010 10:54 am

hey might be a temp fix but when i got my rx, altho it was a 3 plug when i reinstalled the engine i had no power to the coil aswell (or the wire that went to the coil) i just ran a wire straight from a ingnition source.

it got me going, prob not ideal but if you need your car to move...
and my ej conversion i did, i ran a seprate relay for the fuel pump.
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sb2752
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Post by sb2752 » Mon Jan 11, 2010 4:57 pm

yer iv tryed to put 12v to the coil and it dosnt seem right because the pos wire gets hot.
ill have a go and try what u said. i will get back to use
oh yer its a 4 plug ecu
cheers jarrod

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Gannon
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Post by Gannon » Mon Jan 11, 2010 7:33 pm

Are you testing it at the coil or the power transistor?

Here are some diagrams
Image

Image

Try testing the black/white wire at the T shaped plug?
Attachments
88 Mpfi Wiring.jpg
88 Mpfi Wiring.jpg (108.91 KiB) Viewed 3226 times
Coil diagram.JPG
Coil diagram.JPG (50.3 KiB) Viewed 3225 times
Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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sb2752
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Post by sb2752 » Mon Jan 11, 2010 8:37 pm

cheers mate thanks for that diagram
i have tested both pos and nev on the coil than tested the plug from the harness

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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Mon Jan 11, 2010 9:33 pm

Gets HOT? Maybe that's why it is called HOT wiring?

HOT is like a short then or load too much for your wire and circuit. I wonder, if you do not have power in the wire you hooked up to the POS side of the coil, was this wire then connected to EARTH NEG of the car somehow?

Now that you have said it is 4 plug ECU you have got me out of the loop. I only have 3 plug knowledge, experience, diagrams but got 4 plug dizzy to know it is different set up.

Rules me out... :(

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sb2752
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Post by sb2752 » Mon Jan 11, 2010 9:47 pm

lol iv thought that aswell i traced it back and it went to the relay
do you know if the ecu has to be earthed to the body?
im going to the wreckers on the weekend to try a diffrent computer
thanks steptoe u have been a huge help, il let you know how it gose
cheers jarrod

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Gannon
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Post by Gannon » Mon Jan 11, 2010 10:55 pm

Did you test the T shaped plug that plugs into the Ignitor Transistor?

Maybe you have a dud transistor
Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Tue Jan 12, 2010 7:22 am

My three plug is earthed to body pins 43 47 and 48. Simply identified as Black wire no trace. The body of ECU itself is attached to the body of car as well. ECU needs eart as most if its switching is earth control, such as the injectors have ign pos all the time ignition is on and they are ECU switched by suplying them the earth neg.

You are using the coil from the conversion kit aren't you?

Maybe detail list of what you got in your conversion kit, what you got left over. Include any part numbers of ECU, coil, distributor.....power transformer you did get one and fit it ?

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