92 L series brake shudder

Having issues with your ride ? Ask away in here ...
User avatar
92subbie
Junior Member
Posts: 64
Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2005 10:00 am
Location: Riddells Creek, Vic

92 L series brake shudder

Post by 92subbie » Wed Mar 03, 2010 9:08 pm

Hello all,

I am having some issues with my 1992 L Series wagon with severe brake shudder and steering wheel wobble at speed. I have recently had the discs machined as I suspected warped discs, and didn't make a difference. My pads weren't badly worn so I didn't replace the pads. Should I try replacing them?

I also took it to a suspension shop and they informed me that my steering rack was pretty loose and may cause it to be oscillating at high speeds. So I pulled it out, replaced it with another one and adjusted the gear back lash and hasn't seemed to make any difference.

Has anyone on here experienced the same thing and how did they go about eliminating the problem?

Regards,

Leigh

User avatar
holden26
Junior Member
Posts: 20
Joined: Sat Nov 21, 2009 4:53 pm
Location: qld

Post by holden26 » Wed Mar 03, 2010 9:33 pm

have you checked your wheel bearings?

User avatar
El_Freddo
Master Member
Posts: 12626
Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2005 10:00 am
Location: Bridgewater Vic
Contact:

Post by El_Freddo » Wed Mar 03, 2010 9:37 pm

G'day Leigh.

Sounds like a tyre may have thrown a weight. You'd be surprised how a simple little thing like this can create such a problem. Try changing your tyres front to rear and vise versa - that should change the problem tyre and the vibration to the rear.

If it does, have the tyres re balanced if they're worth the little bit of money it would cost for this service. If they're close to renewal, either put up with it longer or replace them.

All the best.

Cheers

Bennie
"The lounge room is not a workshop..."
Image
El Freddo's Pics - El_Freddo's youtube

User avatar
RSR 555
Elder Member
Posts: 6951
Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2007 10:42 am
Location: ATM... stuck in Rockingham

Post by RSR 555 » Wed Mar 03, 2010 9:46 pm

Sounds like a tyre issue. I had a similar problem and it turned out that the tyre was going egg shape :???: I'd have the tyres checked and balanced and while you're there, just check your wheel bearings before you take the wheel off the car.
You know you are getting old when the candles on your birthday cake start to cost more than the cake itself.

RSR Performance
Home of the 'MURTAYA' in Oz
Subaru Impreza WRX based Sportscar
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Disclaimer: Not my website but hyperlink here to Subaru workshop manuals

User avatar
92subbie
Junior Member
Posts: 64
Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2005 10:00 am
Location: Riddells Creek, Vic

Post by 92subbie » Wed Mar 03, 2010 9:50 pm

I have been told my wheel bearings are fine. I have had the drivers side ones out before and they felt good.

So out of balance wheels can also cause brake shudder?

I too have been told (on another set of wheels and tires) that they began going "egg" shape...

Looks like for now its off to get balanced and aligned and go from there.

Cheers!

User avatar
drof351
Junior Member
Posts: 132
Joined: Sun Oct 11, 2009 8:34 pm
Location: WA

Post by drof351 » Wed Mar 03, 2010 10:06 pm

Hi, Were your discs machined on or off the vehicle? Maybe bent hub? Have you got access to a dial gauge to check the run out?

User avatar
92subbie
Junior Member
Posts: 64
Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2005 10:00 am
Location: Riddells Creek, Vic

Post by 92subbie » Thu Mar 04, 2010 9:35 am

They were machined off the car. No I don't have access to a dial gauge. What would cause a bent hub?

User avatar
someguy
Junior Member
Posts: 316
Joined: Thu Aug 07, 2008 10:37 am
Location: Adelaide, SA
Contact:

Post by someguy » Thu Mar 04, 2010 10:02 am

92subbie wrote: What would cause a bent hub?
Wheel nuts being done too tightly or not evenly.

Lots of mechanics get this problem because the guns they use to put the wheel nut back on has too much pressure/force.

Its happened to me before. Also had wheel nuts stripped because of the sheer force/speed those guns pull them off.


Most "respectable" mechanics will do them by hand these days.

If I ever leave my car with a mechanic (I try not too these days) I make sure they do the wheel nuts back up with a brace.
* 1990 L Series Sportswagon (Daily Driver)

* WTB 1982-84 MY 4WD Wagon (Any Condition)

User avatar
discopotato03
Senior Member
Posts: 2134
Joined: Sun Mar 18, 2007 9:29 am
Location: Sydney

Post by discopotato03 » Thu Mar 04, 2010 12:24 pm

In my experience L's are very sensitive to tyres running out of round and wheel balance . I think because 13" tyres are getting thinner on the ground its hard to find good ones . The cheapest nastiest Chinese tyres are rubbish so avoid them or at least go one price range up with them .

I get on well with my tyre people , three gens of us have used them , and I watch them balance my wheels all the time . I have seen the junk tyres wobble all over the place or a times way too much weight needed to get an acceptable "balance" .
If your rims are an unknown quantity get them to spin them up without a tyre and you'll see straight away if they dont run true .

A .

User avatar
RSR 555
Elder Member
Posts: 6951
Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2007 10:42 am
Location: ATM... stuck in Rockingham

Post by RSR 555 » Thu Mar 04, 2010 1:54 pm

92subbie wrote:So out of balance wheels can also cause brake shudder?
On some cases yes but I'd get the tyre shop to just check over the whole front suspension parts to confirm nothing else has gone wrong. The other thing you can check is the CV nuts are tight (you should hear creaking sounds from the front but not all the time) that can cause it too.
You know you are getting old when the candles on your birthday cake start to cost more than the cake itself.

RSR Performance
Home of the 'MURTAYA' in Oz
Subaru Impreza WRX based Sportscar
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Disclaimer: Not my website but hyperlink here to Subaru workshop manuals

User avatar
92subbie
Junior Member
Posts: 64
Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2005 10:00 am
Location: Riddells Creek, Vic

Post by 92subbie » Thu Mar 04, 2010 4:54 pm

RSR 555 wrote:On some cases yes but I'd get the tyre shop to just check over the whole front suspension parts to confirm nothing else has gone wrong. The other thing you can check is the CV nuts are tight (you should hear creaking sounds from the front but not all the time) that can cause it too.
Yes I occasionally hear a creaking sound, at low speed... I thought that may be a dodgy cv but the suspension shop told me the cv's were fine.

I have swapped wheels front to back and still the same issue. I then tried another lot of wheels that I have and still the same issue.

I did notice that there is still play in the steering rack. Worth getting it rebuilt?

User avatar
tony
Junior Member
Posts: 266
Joined: Mon Jun 15, 2009 11:00 pm
Location: wa

Post by tony » Thu Mar 04, 2010 5:24 pm

check the tie rod ends, a bit of looseness there can cause wobble. if you stab the brake pedal does that stop the wobble?
Holden did a test some years ago and found that machining brake disks on car was far more reliable than off car, less inaccuracy.
also can't hurt to check wheel bearings, jack wheel off ground, and place hand on bottom of tyre and try to lift/rock wheel, if it moves at all there is a problem. then place hand on front of tyre and wriggle side to side, this will pick up tie rod end looseness.

User avatar
Morcs
Junior Member
Posts: 144
Joined: Thu May 24, 2007 10:52 pm
Location: Esperance

Post by Morcs » Fri Mar 05, 2010 3:36 pm

check the tie rod ends, a bit of looseness there can cause wobble.

I totally agree with this also check the rack itself and ball joints

Another thing may not be an issue with a standard motor etc
is check the rotors for cracks splits etc
Under high temps these have a tendancey to crack
So many optioins not enough time or money:confused:

User avatar
92subbie
Junior Member
Posts: 64
Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2005 10:00 am
Location: Riddells Creek, Vic

Post by 92subbie » Fri Mar 05, 2010 5:31 pm

like i have mentioned above, the rack itself definitely feels loose still (even after adjusting the back lash) is it worth spending the money on getting it refurbished?

I noticed today that there was a deep "clicking/rubbing" sort of sound coming from the front end... I'm beginning to think this may be something a little serious....

User avatar
rtcb65
General Member
Posts: 1354
Joined: Sun Jul 29, 2007 1:07 pm
Location: Gympie
Contact:

Post by rtcb65 » Fri Mar 05, 2010 8:12 pm

Are your castle nuts done up real tight. I have had the experience of them lose and i heard a noise and my wheel wobble slightly which aloud the disk to wobble in the calipers .
rtcb65
------------------
Redneck Rick.

1997 Gen 3 outback. GT forester wheels . Hopefully more changes to come. Proud Supporter And User of -----------C R O S S B R E D --- P E R F O R M A N C E ---- Products


[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

User avatar
El_Freddo
Master Member
Posts: 12626
Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2005 10:00 am
Location: Bridgewater Vic
Contact:

Post by El_Freddo » Fri Mar 05, 2010 8:50 pm

G'day 92subbie,
If you can wait til next wednesday, I'd be happy to drop over and check it out for you. I'm a certified backyard mechanic :mrgreen:

If I get my crap sorted on sunday (got a project to sort) I could drop over then...

PM sent.

Cheers

Bennie
"The lounge room is not a workshop..."
Image
El Freddo's Pics - El_Freddo's youtube

User avatar
RSR 555
Elder Member
Posts: 6951
Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2007 10:42 am
Location: ATM... stuck in Rockingham

Post by RSR 555 » Fri Mar 05, 2010 11:14 pm

rtcb65 wrote:Are your castle nuts done up real tight. I have had the experience of them lose and i heard a noise and my wheel wobble slightly which aloud the disk to wobble in the calipers .
This is where I was leading too.. I think your castle (Outer CV) nut may not have been done up right. You may be best waiting to Bennie can drop over and show you the deal with the front end parts. If you can't wait then I'd look at removing your castle nut and checking the taper washer. 9 times out of 10 I find there is a lip on the top of the taper and when you do the castle nuts up tight it gets locked up on the lip and doesn't push the taper washer in correctly. File off the lip and reassemble all parts and do the castle nut up has hard as you can. To see if this is the problem, just follow the above advice on checking your wheel bearings.
You know you are getting old when the candles on your birthday cake start to cost more than the cake itself.

RSR Performance
Home of the 'MURTAYA' in Oz
Subaru Impreza WRX based Sportscar
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Disclaimer: Not my website but hyperlink here to Subaru workshop manuals

User avatar
El_Freddo
Master Member
Posts: 12626
Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2005 10:00 am
Location: Bridgewater Vic
Contact:

Post by El_Freddo » Sat Mar 06, 2010 7:15 am

Yeah good idea on the castle nuts. Very common. I'll pack the 36mm socket and half inch breaker bar :twisted: That'll sort them out ;)

Cheers

Bennie
"The lounge room is not a workshop..."
Image
El Freddo's Pics - El_Freddo's youtube

User avatar
92subbie
Junior Member
Posts: 64
Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2005 10:00 am
Location: Riddells Creek, Vic

Post by 92subbie » Sat Mar 06, 2010 4:45 pm

PM sent. cheers

User avatar
92subbie
Junior Member
Posts: 64
Joined: Fri Oct 14, 2005 10:00 am
Location: Riddells Creek, Vic

Post by 92subbie » Mon Mar 15, 2010 8:01 pm

ok so after a kind visit from Bennie last week (and after what we thought was majority of problem solved...) it is back making horrible noises. I am putting my money on a f'd CJ-joint but I made a recording of the noise so you guys can witness it for yourselves....

This was recorded over the weekend whilst i was driving to Geelong. The recording starts off at 100km/h and then i think i start to slow down... but for reference the noise does seem to stop when the brakes are applied.

Heres the link to have a listen:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cyk7sDCiuUA

Post Reply

Return to “Trouble Shooting”