Help, My Brumby Won't Start

Brumble · Post by **Brumble** » Mon Apr 18, 2011 10:38 pm

I have had it running as recently as a month ago without any dramas but I have tried to get it going again today with no success. It is as if the battery is flat because the starter is engaging but is very sluggish and is only able to turn the engine a few degrees before it runs out of grunt. I am able to turn over the engine by hand so I know it hasn't seized.

I have eliminated the battery as the cause by connecting jumper leads to another car and confirming that I have around 13.3 volts at the battery terminals. I have also tried connecting the jumper lead directly to the starter solenoid but still no change. All earth leads/straps are secure and appear to be in serviceable condition. I have also changed out the starter motor with the one out of my other brumby but am still getting the same result.

I have started looking at the wiring under the dash and spent most of today ripping out an old immobiliser and alarm system which had been put both with crimp connectors and simply by twisting wires together and wrapping them in tape but I have soldered any cut wires back together and it hasn't fixed. I read in another post on here about the starter switch on some vehicles deteriorating and limiting the current to the starter. I am planning on testing this tomorrow. I would assume that the best way to do this is with a mulitmeter to test the resistance across the switch. If so what would be and acceptable level of resistance?

If anyone has any other ideas they would be greatly appreciated as I need to get this car registered and on the road before this weekend so that I can get to work next week.

FujiFan · Post by **FujiFan** » Mon Apr 18, 2011 10:51 pm

Ok, I will give this a go.
Firstly you need to actually disconnect the batt in affected brumby completely and check standing voltage with a DMM. Batt terminals can be dicky even when all appears ok. When you piggy backed of other vehicle with leads, did you messure the batt by touching the lead posts or the clamps? (contact resistance)
Always to save grief check from the batt posts onwards in sequence.

Also car batteries dont like to be left in a state of partial or complete discharge, so if brumby has been sitting round for a few weeks unattended especially in colder times may cause probs.

J

1111giles · Post by **1111giles** » Mon Apr 18, 2011 11:15 pm

Dicky starter motor ??:?

Brumble · Post by **Brumble** » Tue Apr 19, 2011 9:10 am

Thanks for the responses. As far as the battery goes it is definitely not the issue as I have removed it completely from the vehicle and am running the jumper leads from the other car and connecting them directly to the terminals so I have in effect replaced the battery with the one in the other car which I know is good.

With regard to the starter motor I have already changed it out with one from another car and am still having the same problem.

Any other ideas?

Post by **TOONGA** » Tue Apr 19, 2011 9:26 am

check your fusable links they may look ok but the little buggers get tired with time and have an eerie way of not carrying current properly.

TOONGA

tmh983 · Post by **tmh983** » Tue Apr 19, 2011 9:39 am

are u using good quality jumpers? Do the leads get warm or hot quickly? I've had similar problems using el'cheapo jumpers.
U could just put the battery on a charger overnight, that should sort it out.
Also, measure the battery voltage while cranking at both the battery and main terminal of the starter motor, will tell you if there is a wiring issue.

rebuilder · Post by **rebuilder** » Tue Apr 19, 2011 6:29 pm

somehow conect the starter positive terminal to the little terminal on the solenoid (the cylinder hanging off the starter) that is of ocurse after unpluging it, attache the other end to the positive terminal, and just see if it cranks properly, if so, then something in the cars electrical system, is causing the solenoid to not receive a good 12 volts charge, that is the charge which throws the gear into the flywheel and also (and most importanly in this case) closes the circuit to crank the starter motor.
If it still cranks slow and crappy, then starter/battery/engine is cocked.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Tue Apr 19, 2011 6:39 pm

I reckon fusible links too, been the bane of two of my Subes at age 23, the shatters corrode and fracture causing all sorts of grief.

Earths are as important as positive connections,

Same symptoms you quote are from loose battery connections - sveral times caught meself changing starter,

BUT, please define won't start. Break it down into won't even crank, or cranks weak or strong but engine won't fire, if gets this far try some form of aerostart or start ya bastard ether into his nostrils and turn it over, if it fires for a moment it is fuel.

Hey, ya done a spark test, if it turns over ?