more on EA82 tappets. HELP???

richard the fish · Post by **richard the fish** » Thu Jul 14, 2011 5:58 pm

Hi all. My sports wagon has the dredded tappet rattle, but this 1 seems a bit strange.
It has 347,000 on the clock,but I think the engine might have been out at some time as it uses no water and has no oil leaks. burns no oil. I change the oil and filter 4 times a year. Prob overkill. starts and runs fine.

The tappets will rattle so loud you need earplugs to stop you going mad. This might go on for weeks, then all of a sudden (this can happen on start up or while driving) the rattle just stops. Beautiful for a day or maybe a week, then off it goes again. I am presently using Shell Helix 25/60 with 2 small bottles of STP oil treatment.

Also would using a genuine Subi oil filter help?

Thanks all

R

Post by **TOONGA** » Thu Jul 14, 2011 6:15 pm

try adjusting the timing belts so they are properly tensioned 99.9999999% of the members here swear by that

TOONGA

richard the fish · Post by **richard the fish** » Thu Jul 14, 2011 6:49 pm

Thanks Toonga

Apart from the cam belt covers, what else do I need to take off to do this, also do I need to loosen the main crank bolt ?

Cheers

Post by **TOONGA** » Thu Jul 14, 2011 10:04 pm

the procedure is in this document

http://rapidshare.com/files/324197505/e ... egorys.doc

from the gregorys

TOONGA

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Thu Jul 14, 2011 11:48 pm

also people say to renew oil pump seals, I'd be reading oil pressure first and after. At 347,000 km a new set would be not a bad idea. Seen in US for $15 ea , need 8, remove pulley, timing belts, cam boxes clean up their sealant grooves and some patience

discopotato03 · Post by **discopotato03** » Sat Jul 16, 2011 3:56 pm

You don't have to remove the belt covers to reset the belt tensioners .
The middle one has two rubber double plugs and these give you access to the pair of bolts that hold each tensioner in place . You undo them enough to let the tensioners springs take up any slack and then torque them to the factory spec . Then replace the rubber plugs .

If I read it right the factory WSM suggests having the outer belt covers off and applying 17-19 ft/lbs of torque to the cam pulley bolts to pretension the straight side of each belt before resetting its tensioner .
From memory I just turned the engine over via its crank pulley bolt and reset the tensioners . This was not too long after everything was rebuilt and to allow for a small amount of stretch in new belts . It did run quieter afterwards .

A .

DO NOT overtighten the tensioner bolts !!!!! Common stuffup and buggered threads in aluminium hard to fix - in that location .

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Wed Jul 20, 2011 11:14 am

steptoe wrote:also people say to renew oil pump seals

Some would also say to replace the EA82 part in the engine bay with an EJ20 or EJ22 part... That gets rid of the lifter tick and places a

on the driver

Cheers

Bennie