Is this belt tensioner OK

revmax · Post by **revmax** » Thu Oct 27, 2011 5:11 pm

I don't realy know what I am looking for but to be sure I would like to ask the masses, I realy would prefer an answer from someone who knows.
Please watch video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z1YdMAG-RIE

fredsub · Post by **fredsub** » Thu Oct 27, 2011 10:43 pm

my opinion, that one is fine. When you took it out, and wipe it down then compress it, did you notice any film of oil appear ? if not its ok.
And did you compress it slowly and steadily ?
The tensioner, mechanically doesn't have a hard wearing job, unlike the idler bearings, some people just say replace it, which is ridiculous, for one thing, its very expensive. My guess is that the Fuji designers expect it to last the life of the engine, hence shouldn't be a normally stocked item for replacements - but the replacement industry does want to sell you bits with high markup that you don't need, hah.

mud_king91 · Post by **mud_king91** » Fri Oct 28, 2011 4:54 am

fredsub wrote:my opinion, that one is fine. When you took it out, and wipe it down then compress it, did you notice any film of oil appear ? if not its ok.
And did you compress it slowly and steadily ?
The tensioner, mechanically doesn't have a hard wearing job, unlike the idler bearings, some people just say replace it, which is ridiculous, for one thing, its very expensive. My guess is that the Fuji designers expect it to last the life of the engine, hence shouldn't be a normally stocked item for replacements - but the replacement industry does want to sell you bits with high markup that you don't need, hah.

they say replace it because chances are if you dont it WILL fail causing alot if damage to your engine

revmax · Post by **revmax** » Fri Oct 28, 2011 6:13 am

Hi Fred.
When I compressed it slowley in the vice no film of oil appeared.
I will take your advice thanks. the motor is going into a project brumby and is not my main set of wheels. I have yet to hear the motor running so I don't realy want to spend to much money on it until I know the rest of it is fine and the motor is are pretty easy to pull out if anything else needs to be done.

littlewhiteute · Post by **littlewhiteute** » Fri Oct 28, 2011 6:14 am

I'd say it's ok, the tensioner in any engine is ALWAYS the last in the belt run before going back to the crank.

Post by **TOONGA** » Fri Oct 28, 2011 8:15 am

revmax

If you didn't have that amount of flex in the belt, you would have an over tensioned belt. which would lead to premature wear and belt failure.

TOONGA

revmax · Post by **revmax** » Fri Oct 28, 2011 12:45 pm

Thanks Heaps fellas. Fealing much better now.
Just done a leak down test on the motor as well. 90-95% on 2,3,4.
No 1 was down a bit and leaking through an inlet valve. Don't think it is a major issue.

Smokey · Post by **Smokey** » Fri Oct 28, 2011 1:21 pm

Revmax you mention changing the bearings yourself, and one idler as it was non replaceable. Can you explain how you did this, ie take the part to a bearing place and they fitted?
I have an EJ22 330K running all original idlers that I plan to refresh with its overdue belt replacement. To buy the full kit is rather expensive and I'd like to do it right but avoid wasting money where possible.

revmax · Post by **revmax** » Fri Oct 28, 2011 2:33 pm

Smokey. Yer sure I will try my best to explain.
First you will need a Press like so,or acess to one.

I machined up some pipe. (oh you will need a Lathe also) To hold the OD of the roller square to the press, then machined a boss big enough to push on the OD of the bearing but small enough to fit inside the rollers without interference -0.1mm.
With the bearings removed from the idler OD I then pressed the Center of the idler out from the ID of the bearings.
Then to push the bearings back in I did the same but the narrow slingle bearing in the bottom roller would not go in square so I made a spacer/stopper to go in the bottom of the roller OD so the bearing had a stop to make sure it was square.
I still have the old bearings and the jigs are at work, I will take some photos to try to help explain. It cost me $52 but I bought more than I needed by accident, should have been $42 for the bearings and the idler I had to buy was $44 so cost me $96 and some time frigging around as apposed to the $350 originaly quoted from the spare parts joint.

discopotato03 · Post by **discopotato03** » Sat Oct 29, 2011 5:18 am

Talk to a bearing service business , they'll have the answers and price details .

As for the hydraulic tensioner , it would be a good idea to see what the factory WSM says about them .

A .

daza · Post by **daza** » Sat Oct 29, 2011 8:42 am

Smokey wrote:To buy the full kit is rather expensive ...

What do you call too expensive?

Daza.

Post by **TOONGA** » Sat Oct 29, 2011 9:25 am

daza wrote:What do you call too expensive?

Daza.

even with 45 dollars for postage that is still a bargain.

they even have a speel in a pdf about the quality of the belt

TOONGA

Smokey · Post by **Smokey** » Sat Oct 29, 2011 11:18 am

Nice one Daza that is a sweet deal, full kit for the cost of roughly the belt (genuine).

revmax · Post by **revmax** » Sat Oct 29, 2011 5:43 pm

yer that is cheap in comparison to the prices they are asking in Australia. BUT is the belt good enough and are they Chinese bearings.

Smash1911 · Post by **Smash1911** » Sat Oct 29, 2011 7:54 pm

So the original units have done 330k, and you think it's too pricey to replace them with genuine parts??

Smokey · Post by **Smokey** » Sat Oct 29, 2011 9:43 pm

Smash1911 wrote:So the original units have done 330k, and you think it's too pricey to replace them with genuine parts??

Not if I expected another 200k+. Comes down to doing things right without wasting money unnecessarily