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Hi there, I'm new to the forums, just really hoping someone could help me with this.

Didn't really know where to start looking for tips on this but I stumbled across this forum hoping someone here would know something.
So the trouble is, a few weeks ago I pulled into home and while checking my fluids found that the CV boots were pretty much completely shot, holes in them near the joint big enough to put your fingers in. They are the front outer boots on both sides.
I've never replaced the boots myself but I have a rough idea (very rough) on what to do. So I took the wheel off and noticed that I'd probably have to take apart the entire wheel and steering assembly to get at the joint/boots.

I've bought the boots already and can replace them whenever I feel like, I was just wondering if there was some easier way of replacing them without completely disassembling the wheel mount and everything. Any help, tips or tricks associated with this would be very much appreciated.

Cheers.

There are quite a few ways to remove the drive shaft without removing the whole steering knuckle.

On brumbys and all the other MY series, I remove the bolt which holds the control arm to the crossmember. which gives enough movement in the strut to pull the inner CV/DOJ off the spline of the gear box (once the roll pin is removed)

then you can remove the outer CV after you have used a soft face hammer to clear the CV of the bearings in the knuckle.

Another way is to remove the bottom ball joint from the knuckle and then follow the procedure above.

Or you can follow the step by step instructions from the gregorys manual

the manual transaxle section here

http://rapidshare.com/files/369418990/1 ... nsaxle.pdf

gives a very complex way of removing the shaft

then there are these instructions for getting the shaft apart







TOONGA

There are also the two piece CV boot kits that are done without any dismantle. Sort of a blue plastic or nylon boot in two halves and a seam that you piece together over the now clean and regreased CV to ensure good fit, if so, glue the two halves together. Personally seen done once, did not like job done, forgot results

Also, you'll need a 36mm socket and a solid breaker bar to remove the castle nut in the middle of the hub.

I've got a 3/4 drive breaker bar. You'll need to jump on it! Make sure the wheels are chocked, hand brake is on and it's in gear too. Don't remove the wheel before attempting this!

Tightening is the reverse, with more jumping

Cheers

Bennie

Thank you all I'm going to go do them now actually.
Also, TOONGA, is there anywhere I could get the entire pdf for that book? Would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers

I have the entire PDF of the Gregorys here in single bits or a complete rar with all the bits.

as for the book the CV stuff came out of, thats the haynes manual for the 89-98 liberty which is paper. I would need a better scanner and at least 3 free days to scan that.

TOONGA