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OK, gurus input appreciated

I decided to fit an electronic dizzy from a brumby(same model) to my 89 Brumby. I thought the process would be quite straight forward,...But!!!

With the electronic dizzy installed, she will start, but dies under revs.

The timing is spot on, the coil is brand new, the coil is fitted to a ballast, after much fiddling remove the electronic dizzy, refit the manual (points) dizzy and away she goes! I've attempted the change over twice with 2 electronic dizzy's , same outcome!!

I must be missing something & something in front of my eyes

(no wonder I shave my head otherwise I'd be tearing hair out)

Cheers

Ray

Did you put the dizzy in correctly?
Here is a how to by SilverBullet....

Yes you can't just put the dizzy back on in any old fashion, the gear on the dizzy needs to be in exactly the right tooth of the gear on the crankshaft.

I think what I did last time was pull the spark plugs out and the rubber plug out of the inspection hole on flywheel housing. Turn the engine over by hand until the 0 mark appears and lines up with the pointer (I'm not sure if you have to put the pointer at -8 here, someone will confirm/deny) Then on the dizzy point the rotor at where the #1 lead goes on the dizzy cap. You have to then turn the rotor a tiny bit clockwise (I think it's clockwise) and slide the dizzy into the hole on the block. The slight clockwise turn is because when the helical gear on the dizzy slides into the teeth on the crankshaft it will turn anticlockwise slightly and would usually put your timing 1 tooth out (if you turn it slightly before it will still turn anticlockwise but you'll be on the right tooth)

Then set your timing as normal with a timing light.


Cheers Cam

Yes mate followed the process

Ok,
Has to be electric as it works with the points dizzy, (would have said fuel)
Got me stumped

Have you tried rotating the dizzy 180 degrees? Flywheel rotates twice for each turn of dizzy so it can look alinged and be way out. When it is it will fire but won't run.

Sent from my GT-I9100T using Tapatalk

Wooster wrote:With the electronic dizzy installed, she will start, but dies under revs.

The timing is spot on, the coil is brand new, the coil is fitted to a ballast

I'm pretty sure you don't use the ballast with the electronic dizzy.

It could also be the module inside the dizzy breaking down, these will cause small misses initially then break down exponentially from there until they're dead.

Yours could be damaged by the ballast - maybe, I don't know, just a guess.

Cheers

Bennie

No Ballast resistor required for electronic ignition.

Thanks guys, I'll have a bo-peep at removing the ballast resistor, I suppose that should be straight forward?

El_Freddo wrote:I'm pretty sure you don't use the ballast with the electronic dizzy.

littlewhiteute wrote:No Ballast resistor required for electronic ignition.

Yes I concur, no ballast resistor is needed. It's only there in the points system to help reduce the arcing burn caused when the points crack open.

Wooster wrote:Thanks guys, I'll have a bo-peep at removing the ballast resistor, I suppose that should be straight forward?

Yes mate, just make sure it's 12v positive ignition feed and not accessories 12v positive feed but this should be already at your old wiring.

When i did mine, absolutely no problem. It started first pop. The guy i bought it off gave me the coil as well, he said i couldn't use the old one as it wasn't right for electonic ignition.

Bought a new coil, wired it in with the electronic dizzy, still no go, one more try. PS is there a trick to ensuring the replacement pointless dizzy is sitting correctly so it fires at the appropriate point in rotation?

Take NO. 1 spark plug out, turn the engine with your finger over the plug hole, when you feel compression keep turning to 8 degrees BTDC on the flywheel marks.

Look at the distributor position, (rotor where it is pointing in relation to the leads) and the reluctor pickup.
The pickup should be lined on it's edges with the reluctor wheel.
Turn the dizzy to line up, or remove and refit to time the engine correctly.

Any engine should be easy enough to time with a static method prior to firing it up.

Confirming with my mates above= EI no ballast on mine.

I upgraded to a MS blaster 2 coil ($100 at Autobarn)- worth it, also iridium plugs (1.1mm) and 8.8mm leads.

Ray is there any spark at all.

El_Freddo wrote:
It could also be the module inside the dizzy breaking down, these will cause small misses initially then break down exponentially from there until they're dead.

Bennie

I was also experiencing the very slight, odd full stumble, rather than a miss (which is sort of suggestive of just a cylinder dropping out) in the weeks prior to my last module leaving me stranded

If it starts and idles it is not out by 180 degrees, surely?

Yep, no ballast resistor as these are to reduce the 12V IGN to about 8 or 9 Volts for points coil, EI dizzy coil needs its 12V. My Diamond ? brand genuine coils state to be used with electronic ignition

been a while since had a car with points. Isn't the ballast resistor only in the
circuit during engine start ?
The resistor being there drops the voltage, because if the engine is sitting at a position with the points closed, current is going through the coil, and otherwise the coil would burn up.

Its important to note, that with the electronic ignition, if the engine is sitting
in the same equivalent position as points closed, and ignition ON, the module itself electronically switches off the current internally. ie the "dwell" is electronically controlled. This is why the electronic dizzy never needs a ballast resistor.