The AUSubaru.com.au Forums

ok well my vortex ran fine for a while and now it seems when ever it heats up to normal temp it starts playing silly buggers.

its bad when taking off from stationary jerks around like crazy like its cutting fuel? if i keep my foot on the peda,l it cuts out then a second/s later kicks back in

my ecu has no little light within and im at a loss of how to correctly wire in a ecu check light? so i cant even give codes.

i wired up a vss wire today from the ej22 ecu directly to the exsiting vss wiring from were the ea82 ecu used to live, no luck

any ideas?

FUEL FILTER....

but that would happen when its cold also...

knock sensor is another likely culprit

The check engine light is wired between B19 Red/Green wire (Pin 19 of the 26 pin plug) on you EJ22 ECU and an ignition source, =-> the supply to the dash cluster.

The vortex should have the wire and light already there, the check engine light wire to the Vortex ECU might be Red/Blue and the wire that hooks up to the ignition dash supply might be Red/Yellow

ha i was going to hook that up (ecl) through the old ecu wiring, when i did the vss...... 2 seconds of my life and my check engine light is working

and alex your right on the money, the only code it is throwing is 22 or other wise known as KNOCK SENSOR. i have another one on the ej25 i might swap them over tomorrow.

heres a picture, looks like it could be faulty LOL

Yeah that's Sooo common


Sent from my HTC Velocity 4G using Tapatalk

does anyone know were to get a new cheap knock sensor?

ebay about ?$120
I cant remember how much genuine is I"ll look it up tomorrrow

i got one off ebay and it works really well.

similar price to what frog said.

alex

one time i mananged to replace mine with a resistor also

worked very well but obviosuly isnt advisable

alex

Well I put a good looking knock sensor on and the same thing happened.
I've got a new sensor coming (thanks eBay) but if that doesn't work is the sensor wired directly to the ecu? Could I string a new wire?

Or I might be asking you Alex about the resistor trick...

ok i've got a new knock sensor ($66 genuine), still havent cleared the code yet.

went for a drive with the plugs conected, 51 (n switch) and 42 (idle air switch) appear during the drive but it doesnt store the faults.

N-switch is just a wire that needs grounding? someone confirm
idle air switch would this just need possiable removale and clean?

the problem only appears when warm...

shuffbag wrote:still havent cleared the code yet.

You need to clear this problem so the ECU gets over it. Sounds crazy but you need to clear the code for the ECU to use the O2 sensor properly. This is my view anyway.

shuffbag wrote:N-switch is just a wire that needs grounding? someone confirm
idle air switch would this just need possiable removale and clean?

I don't remember grounding a neutral switch with my conversion and I've not got any codes for it.

The IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) could be gummed up. Go for a can of UEC and squirt it down the intake for the IACV

Cheers

Bennie

yeah i've never ground a neutral switch in the past, im going to remove the iacv on saturday and give it a clean/inspection. i might disconnect my batt tomorrow for reconnection saturady after i do my iacv. that should clear it.

shuffbag wrote:yeah i've never ground a neutral switch in the past, im going to remove the iacv on saturday and give it a clean/inspection. i might disconnect my batt tomorrow for reconnection saturady after i do my iacv. that should clear it.

do not take the solenoid off the top of the IACV as this will change the way the vane opens and wreck your idle speed.

and try this for clearing the codes

showpost.php?p=181701&postcount=5

TOONGA

ok well i cleared the code, put some upper engine cleaner through it *cough cough*... so smokey.

knock sensor code is GONE
51 and 42 remain when driving if the plugs are connected, but they do not store on the ecu.

my next thought would be fuel since its only when its under load, new fuel filters and i will delete the little plastic (i think its a one way valve) doodaddy under the rear passanger side. its a part of the original fuel lines. maybe blast compressed air through them when im working on them.

any thoughts?
car stutters under load when warm and doesnt throw a code?

there is a thing with EJ20 turbo and an odd miss, stumble stutter if you have incorrect plugs to suit computer and coils , it is whether or not you have or need resistor plugs or not and if you have opposite installed - temperature dependent, may be ok at op temp, but a bity above or bit below and plays up

thinking spark wise i might swap my coil pack with a spare i have as well

never got the chance to try the plug change on the Brumby concerned as the owner got a 14 year sentence, last I saw of the ute was on its way to an interstate transport company

ok time for a update,

no codes are thrown, ecu flashes constant which would be great if the car still wasnt stuttering under load when warm.

i have replaced the MAF and knock sensor. im hoping its not what im thinking.... but its not loosing coolant (that i know of)