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replacing cv joints sos
Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 3:23 pm
by parko24
gday, iv been tinkering with my lseries for a while now and have taken up all of the maintainance with stuff all idea. im presently replacing the driver side cv and i cannot get the shaft out due to this 1 pain in the backside lock pin pictured, ive tried yelling and spitting at it but nothing seems to work, can any one please give me a clue.
cheers parko
Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 3:30 pm
by Cliff R
It is called a Seloc pin or a Roll pin.
I get mine out by using a pin punch just a bit smaller than the pin itself and hammering it out.
If you dont have a pin punch set a piece or round bar or a long bolt with the same idea, eg, a bit smaller than the pin.
I have found that one side of the pin may be slightly below the surface of the CV coupling surface so I usually hammer from this side as I can get a good "line up" with the punch and it does not skip off too much
The pin is like a semi tube with a slit down one side that springs in as the pin is insterted
http://www.boltfast.co.za/product.php?p ... ame=&cat=2.
Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 3:38 pm
by MTB92
what ever you do, dont use something that could slip into the pin. I have done this on my first cv change and ended up having to grind the cup flat! If you do, the more you belt it the more it will open the pin and make it harder to get out.

Cutting the end off a screw driver usually works well.
Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 3:46 pm
by Cliff R
Yes, something jammed inside the pin is a real pain and when I have managed to do this I have had to turn the CV over and hammer something small down inside the pin to knock whatever I have jammed inside the pin in the first place. This does not always work either as the pin is usually full of crap of some sort.
Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 3:54 pm
by Brad_Stacey
Yeah, don't use anything too small, a 6mm punch is recommended.
Two 1/2inch extensions on top of the punch makes it easy to swing the hammer.
Also when you put it back together it only goes one way.
Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 5:17 pm
by parko24
cheers for the help, i ended up fashioning a tool to do the job out of a set of terrible screw drivers. gotta stop being so gentle with it and bash it a bit more it seems.
side note i need a lift kit! dont suppose theres any lseries enthusiasts that know where to find them?
Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 6:32 pm
by steptoe
Shees , don't ask me, I still have a diff in the yard that has swallowed up my pin punch stamped SUBARU !
You'll notice the CVs other nd called a double offset joint has a dimple, recess on one side, not the other, think it is to help ID which way pin goes in, bit of a guide anyway. When reassemble you need to match up the splines so the hole with the valley through its centre, needs the mountain in the centre of the stub - if you get my drift....
Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 10:22 pm
by Cliff R
Yes again.
When you put the joint back on the spline it will certainly go on in a heap of different positions but only one where the pin will line up and go back in.
Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 10:45 pm
by El_Freddo
From memory it's a 6.5mm pin punch that you need. I'm like steptoe and have a broken screw driver shaft that's a perfect fit for the job.
Once you've got the perfect fit or a pin punch for the job, hammer away! Once they start to move they should come out easily
Cheers
Bennie
Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 7:38 am
by purp
I've got a tent peg that was exactly the right diameter. It has been used for many a driveshaft over the last ten years.
Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 8:53 am
by steptoe
Hmmm, got a bag of tent pegs on accidental 'loan '

Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 12:10 pm
by scoobymine
Blunt drill bit turned upside down does it for me. And you can get the perfect size.
Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 12:25 pm
by alang
sounds good that's my next job on the brumby, driver side has rip in inner boot and lower ball joints are knackered. so once i fix the water problem up on stands and check the boots and shafts. the ball joints i purchased have grease nipples on the bottom will they fit up inside the hub with them on just asking haven't done this type before
Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 2:32 pm
by Cliff R
Ball joints on the grease nipples.
Good stuff just like the old days.
Where did you get them from ?
I probably will need some for the MY wagon in the near future as everything is the original 1982 gear.
Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 3:06 pm
by alang
Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 3:13 pm
by Cliff R
alang
The pics do not show grease nipples but a good find.
Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 3:27 pm
by alang
i know but they are the same ones i purchased and had them in the box loose in a plastic bag
Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 12:08 am
by El_Freddo
alang wrote:the ball joints i purchased have grease nipples on the bottom will they fit up inside the hub with them on just asking haven't done this type before
How does this work since it would be in the strut? You still have to pull it out to grease it up, or is it a grease before install and forget?
I've not had an issue with lack of grease in ball joints, what does them in for me is a tear or tiny hole in the rubber boot that's meant to keep the dust and crap out. Once you've got dirt in there they wear out really quick.
Cheers
Bennie
Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 11:58 am
by parko24
got rhough the getting it out part took a thousand calls to find somewhere that had the lock pins, now i dont wanna seem to stupo but is there a trick to putting them in? i fear iv already stuffed.
pic, the offset joint i went to put the pin in what i originally thought was the correct way it got stuck so i tried the other way hoping itll work and or push the first pin out.
Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 12:19 pm
by stewbaru
I'd say your one spline out, you will have to get one of those pins out with pliers or something then put a pin punch through to knock the other one out, try not to get it stuck as well. Take the cup off then get a torch and make sure that the holes are lined up perfectly before you put the pin through again.