GEN3 outback - slow starting

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indy
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GEN3 outback - slow starting

Post by indy » Sun Dec 30, 2012 2:46 pm

So as some may know, recently i purchased a GEN3 2001 outback a few weeks back.

Has alot of little problems here and there, one of the most anoying is however is it starting. My L series cranks over with 1 turn. The outback usually takes about 5-10 cranks(cold) to kick over, if its recently been driven however its usually only about 3.

The battery in the outback is 300CCA, whereas the battery in my L series is 330CCA.
Is 300CCA too small for the outback, does anybody know what they are meant to have?

It sounds like the starter motor turns fine and that it has enough power, but it just takes awhile to fire.
I've tried turning the key to ON before i crank, for about 10 seconds and then trying to start but it makes no difference (tried this as i read if the fuel pump is on its way out, thats a way to diagnose it?)
Heres me starting it in the morning, this is how long it usually takes but sometimes can take a bit longer.
[youtube]n5x7T1B-JgY[/youtube]

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indy
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Post by indy » Tue Jan 01, 2013 7:41 am

Thread Bump :)

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taza
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Post by taza » Tue Jan 01, 2013 8:07 am

Hey mate I'd say the battery is too small. I have a 700cca one in my foz and it's great. Can leave lights on or the stereo going for hours and she still starts.
If that's not the issue the it could be the crank angle sensor... Seen it many times as im a auto sparky.
If the starter motor is turning over fine then you can rule that out. If you can borrow a battery off a friend to try it could save you some dollars. 450cca and up should be fine..

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indy
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Post by indy » Tue Jan 01, 2013 11:26 am

Cheers taza, i think im just gonna bite the bullet and got a good sized battery anyway. Hopefully it eliminates the problem, otherwise ill look into the crank angle sensor.
I'm due to change the Plugs/Fuel Filter aswell, so ill get them done over the next couple of weeks.

EDIT: Is the crank angle sensor the same as the Crankshaft Position Sensor? Just having a look around to get a rough idea on the price.

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taza
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Post by taza » Tue Jan 01, 2013 1:52 pm

^ Sure is mate ;) Try Repco... Should be about $90 I think.

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Gannon
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Post by Gannon » Tue Jan 01, 2013 2:07 pm

I have the biggest battery that fits in the spot, but didnt make any difference. I figured its just a characteristic of the motor. Mine takes about 4 revolutions to fire.
Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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Post by TOONGA » Tue Jan 01, 2013 2:28 pm

Before you start playing with senders, check your battery leads from the connectors at both ends to wire in the cable itself. mine looked fine but the age of the wire had caused them to fail internally.

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tambox
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Post by tambox » Tue Jan 01, 2013 2:45 pm

I have owned a couple of Gen 3 outbacks, they start the same as yours.
Any i test drove before buying started like that as well.
L serious, still.

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indy
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Post by indy » Tue Jan 01, 2013 8:52 pm

Good suggestions. I did take one other Outback for a test drive when i was looking to buy, and it also took a bit to start, which got me wondering aswell, maybe they are all like that?
I just don't see how a modern-ish car, won't kick over from 1 key turn, when my 88 Carby L series will kick over with 1 crank, hot or cold.
Surely brand new, from the dealer they mustve started right up?

The video i posted is on the better side of it starting up, this morning it took twice as long.

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Gannon
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Post by Gannon » Tue Jan 01, 2013 8:59 pm

Maybe its on purpose, possibly to allow a bit of oil pressure to build up at the bearings before it starts.
Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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tambox
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Post by tambox » Tue Jan 01, 2013 9:01 pm

Maybe Subaru is being nice to the motor, a bit of cranking starts the oil flowing, crank it longer when cold:D
When I put the EJ22 in the farm Gen3 outback, it still starts like an EJ25, but in a gen 1, the EJ22 started much quicker.
L serious, still.

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RSR 555
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Post by RSR 555 » Wed Jan 02, 2013 9:19 am

Gannon wrote:Maybe its on purpose, possibly to allow a bit of oil pressure to build up at the bearings before it starts.
+1

The biggest killer of the EJ is bearing failure due to lack of oil at start-up. Both my old 2003 Outback and my friends 2001 Outback does the same as yours.
You know you are getting old when the candles on your birthday cake start to cost more than the cake itself.

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indy
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Post by indy » Wed Jan 02, 2013 9:32 am

Well its good to hear its not just my outback then lol.
Not as worried now, but i think i still will invest in a larger/better battery for peace of mind so i know it wont go flat!

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Post by steptoe » Wed Jan 02, 2013 9:38 am

Gannon wrote:I have the biggest battery that fits in the spot, but didnt make any difference. I figured its just a characteristic of the motor. Mine takes about 4 revolutions to fire.
think I have to quote this - just four revolutions and it has started and you were looking for an improvement (difference) on this??!! :)

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Gannon
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Post by Gannon » Wed Jan 02, 2013 10:55 am

Id actually like to use a oscilloscope to test if there is a delay between when the key is first turned and when the injectors or coils start to fire
Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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RSR 555
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Post by RSR 555 » Wed Jan 02, 2013 2:54 pm

Gannon wrote:Id actually like to use a oscilloscope to test if there is a delay between when the key is first turned and when the injectors or coils start to fire
I'd say the coil as on fuel cut it would want to start (only for a sec though) as there would be slight fuel left from the last time it ran. Spark would be easy to check with a plug.. then again, so would fuel with a noid light.
You know you are getting old when the candles on your birthday cake start to cost more than the cake itself.

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akpv
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Post by akpv » Sat Jan 05, 2013 5:10 pm

i would guess over fuelling due to injector seal leak.

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indy
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Post by indy » Wed Jan 09, 2013 9:12 am

Replaced Oil, Oil Filter, Spark Plugs & Fuel Filter (due for 200,000kms service).
Made no difference to starting.
Instead of trying 1 long crank now, i turn the key for a second. Stop, then turn it again and its always kicking over on the 2nd turn pretty much straight away.

Found this much better to start it up, hot or cold.

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Post by RX Coupe » Wed Jan 09, 2013 8:47 pm

My Outback has been doing exactly the same thing for the last year or two when cold. It has been chacked but nothing found.
Cars: 02 Subaru Outback
85 Subaru RX Turbo Coupe (sold)
92 Subaru Brumby (sold)

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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Wed Jan 09, 2013 9:33 pm

That is exactly how we improved starting our HQ 202 traumatic ...well IGN on for a few seconds then crank with choke on full of course

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