Brumby getting tired and hot - no power

[Subydoug]

Valve stem seals usually let a little bit of oil run down into the combustion chamber. Should spot some smoke when you fire it up in the morning. My vortex does this pretty bad. Typically it may suck some oil into the engine during periods of low intake pressure, like coasting down a hill, or idling at the lights. If you can only smell it with the windows down chances are your tailpipe isnt blowing your fumes into the slipstream properly and the fumes are getting sucked back up into the tray.

Hmm, so it ra good on the higher octane fuel? Ive started fueling up with regular unleaded and havent noticed a difference from 98, If anything I get better economy. Might be worth retarding your timing a few degrees and make sure your vac advance mechanism isnt seized. I noticed mine was locked up the other day and probably has been for a while. Im running about 10deg btdc at 1000rpm.

Regards

Doug

[Silverbullet]

Hey Bennie I can confirm not a single oil drip, since I put a new sump plug washer in Also gear lever boot is tip top, all firewall grommets in place. Like I said you can only smell it with window(s) down and coasting down a hill so I think Doug is more on the money with the exhaust being sucked into the tray somehow which is weird because it did it with the stock exhaust too with or without tarp, is this an in-built design flaw with these utes?? Compression on all 4 is 155-160 psi.

Doug sounds more like seals then, on cold winter mornings especially first start in the morning the tail pipe might as well be a smoke machine, thick blue/white cloud until I stomp on it and drive away. Has done this for about a year. Yes 98 made that much difference. So I still suspect either my dizzy not advancing right or there's no vacuum going to it for some reason. I have a little plan now I'm going to put a weber 32/36 on an EA82 manifold, get it bolted up for a quick as possible swap and maybe try and find another dizzy (haven't checked mine for wear and I haven't serviced/lubed it)

Easter is just around the corner, looks like I have my long weekend project for this year sorted

[El_Freddo]

If you're smelling burning oil in the cabin it won't be due to exhaust emissions unless your exhaust doesn't face the out the gap out the back or is too far forward of said gap.

If you can only smell it with the windows down chances are your tailpipe isnt blowing your fumes into the slipstream properly and the fumes are getting sucked back up into the tray.

Subydoug said it better than I did!

on cold winter mornings especially first start in the morning the tail pipe might as well be a smoke machine, thick blue/white cloud until I stomp on it and drive away.

The blue bit is the concerning bit. Could be valve stem seals, could be the oil rings... But in winter and some cold mornings at other times of the year you will always get exhaust vapour condensation - same as the water you see being pushed out of cold exhausts or with cars that only get driven a few k's before being shut down.

If your engine is up to temp blasting down the road with a cloud of white smoke out the back that's a whole new issue but is related to the cooling system and the combustion chamber...

Cheers

Bennie

[Subydoug]

Lets just say I have some experience with oil fume sniffing . Mine was bad with just exhaust fumes for a long time. It wasnt until I extended the stock muffler tip out further that it mostly went away. If you cannot smell exhaust fumes with the windows down then your probably exhausting sufficiently into the slipstream. That manky oil burn smell is particually revolting so only small amounts of it sets us off. Always makes me nervous now when I smell someone else's car burning oil, gawking in the mirrors making sure it aint coming out of my car .

So your stem seals may be a little bit shot. Unless your topping up your oil every 1000km's it probably isnt the main problem.

Easiest way to check you vac advance is to pull off the disty cap, then disconnect the vacuum line for the advance at the base of the carby or manifold, whichever it goes to. If you look into the distributor you can see the arm coming inside from the vac diaphram. As you suck on the vacuum line you just disconnected you should see it move. The vacuum advance rotates the pickup sensor clockwise and the mechanical weights rotate the shaft and reluctor anticlockwise. There are two screws holding down the plate that has the sensor and magnet mounted to it. To remove the assembly you need to remove the reluctor, easiest done with a puller of some sort but it can be done with a screwdriver and levering action, just be careful. Then the whole lot should lift out and you can see you mechanical weights underneath. If they move freely they are fine. if you need to pull them out, simply take out the little rubber insulator thats under the rotor button and there is a screw that goes inside the shaft. undo that and the outer shaft will lift off.

Regards

Doug