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Hi guys,

I have finally decided to have a go at installing the weber onto my ea81. I have the dgav and adapter plate and a manual choke kit. I notice that when I dryfit the weber, the "choke pull-off diaphram" hits the distributor plug. I tried changing the adapter plate around but that just hits the tube coming out of the manifold. Can someone tell me what I am obviously doing wrong!!

Hey,

My weber rubs on the #4 Lead at the disty cap. Its not a tight fit but it does rub and the 90 degree bend does need to point toward the radiator. Could you please take a picture to give me a better idea of the magnitude of your problem. Maybe my adapter plate is different. Il have a look in the morning for a part number.

Regards

Doug

Did you see the adaptor plate Sam (silverbullet) used? That looked like it raised the weber enough to clear the HT leads.

Hi Doug,
These are the links to the pics;
[img]http://imageshack.com/a/img834/5814/cjoi.jpg[/img]

[img] http://imageshack.com/a/img838/9766/8jyx.jpg [/imgt]
The adaptor plate shows the 6mm pins in just to centre the plate. I could turn the plate around but I would have to remove that hose at the back ?

Cheers

Stuart

looks to me like it needs to be fitted the other way around. It would be a better fit for the opening and as it is it won't seal the water jacket. Is there enough meat in the plate to file a groove to clear that hose? Is there a thick spacer between the original carb and manifold that you could use?

That certainly is a problem! Is that a Redline adapter plate? looks about similar quality and fit (i.e poor) to my redline kit. In the 2nd pic you can clearly see it won't seal the water jacket hole which is a problem, other way round it would hit that vacuum hose. Remember the larger end of the intake passage in that plate has to go underneath the larger throat on the carbie, and to make life easier later on it's best to put the throttle linkages on the drivers side and fuel inlet on the passenger side, but you certainly would have issues with the choke clearing the dizzy.

So here's my suggestion:
Get that water passage hole blocked up. From here it looks like you have a round hole so you might be able to find a threaded plug that is nearly the same size, drill out that hole to the tapping size, tap a tapered plug thread and stick a plug in it with plenty of loc tite, a straight metric thread might work but it would have to be a fine thread. You can do this on the car, other option is to have it welded up and machined back but that has to be done out of the car. Don't worry about blocking coolant flow; coolant flows through the manifold and some of it flows down into the small hose barb that joins underneath the carb, into the heater line. That pre heat hole for the carb is not needed.
Next get one of these spacers
http://www.jameng.com/products/1%7B47%7 ... pacer.html
That should hopefully bring your choke bits above the dizzy just enough to clear #4 lead. If you use the Weber air cleaner you'll have no bonnet clearance problems, if you adapt the stock air cleaner I don't know how much space you'll have above it.

That should just about solve your problems (I hope!) I know not an easy or immediate fix, a real pain if you need the car back. Here's my conversion thread, plenty of pics that might give you some ideas but I used an EA82 intake manifold.
showthread.php?t=24889

Yeah, I spun it around, didn't change it any, I had a small spacer but not enough. I thought perhaps turning the whole carby around, but that just confused me even further!!

Hmm thats certainly different to mine. I had a quick look but couldn't see a part number, pretty sure its by redline though. I snapped some pic's anyway and maybe someone will know who makes it??




can see how it just clears the disty lead.



With yours it looks awfully close to letting coolant into the intake. I have seen somewhere a write up about spinning the carby around so the throttle is on the 2/4 head side. Was a few years back and a quick search pulls up nothing . Your best bet may be to get one like Silverbullets as he knows which one it was and that it works.

Regards

Doug

Brumbyowner wrote:
[img]http://imageshack.com/a/img834/5814/cjoi.jpg[/img]

[img]http://imageshack.com/a/img838/9766/8jyx.jpg[/img]

Is just me or does it seem to be missing some studs to hold the Carby on ... ?

Cheers, Bantum ...

Subydoug wrote:Hmm thats certainly different to mine. I had a quick look but couldn't see a part number, pretty sure its by redline though. I snapped some pic's anyway and maybe someone will know who makes it??




can see how it just clears the disty lead.



With yours it looks awfully close to letting coolant into the intake. I have seen somewhere a write up about spinning the carby around so the throttle is on the 2/4 head side. Was a few years back and a quick search pulls up nothing . Your best bet may be to get one like Silverbullets as he knows which one it was and that it works.

Regards

Doug

Doug,
Your adapter plate seems a lot thicker than mine, I measured mine and it is about 13mm thick. If I have it around the right way, I will have to dremmel out some of the back to fit over the rear vacuum hose. Once it is properly fitted, it covers the coolant opening.

Stuart

Silverbullet wrote:That certainly is a problem! Is that a Redline adapter plate? looks about similar quality and fit (i.e poor) to my redline kit. In the 2nd pic you can clearly see it won't seal the water jacket hole which is a problem, other way round it would hit that vacuum hose. Remember the larger end of the intake passage in that plate has to go underneath the larger throat on the carbie, and to make life easier later on it's best to put the throttle linkages on the drivers side and fuel inlet on the passenger side, but you certainly would have issues with the choke clearing the dizzy.

So here's my suggestion:
Get that water passage hole blocked up. From here it looks like you have a round hole so you might be able to find a threaded plug that is nearly the same size, drill out that hole to the tapping size, tap a tapered plug thread and stick a plug in it with plenty of loc tite, a straight metric thread might work but it would have to be a fine thread. You can do this on the car, other option is to have it welded up and machined back but that has to be done out of the car. Don't worry about blocking coolant flow; coolant flows through the manifold and some of it flows down into the small hose barb that joins underneath the carb, into the heater line. That pre heat hole for the carb is not needed.
Next get one of these spacers
http://www.jameng.com/products/1%7B47%7 ... pacer.html
That should hopefully bring your choke bits above the dizzy just enough to clear #4 lead. If you use the Weber air cleaner you'll have no bonnet clearance problems, if you adapt the stock air cleaner I don't know how much space you'll have above it.

That should just about solve your problems (I hope!) I know not an easy or immediate fix, a real pain if you need the car back. Here's my conversion thread, plenty of pics that might give you some ideas but I used an EA82 intake manifold.
showthread.php?t=24889

Silver,
Thanks for all that, the adapter plate was just sitting there, if I turn it around, it covers the coolant opening ok, its the rear vacuum hose that I may have to try and dremel out a groove to fit it flush. I checked out that spacer you had the link for at Jam Engineering. It is $9 and then $26 postage! Not sure if that sounds right or not.
Anyway, the changeover has stalled at the moment, wife not too happy as it was supposed to be quick and then her car got back in the garage!!

Cheers

Stuart

Brumbyowner wrote: I checked out that spacer you had the link for at Jam Engineering. It is $9 and then $26 postage! Not sure if that sounds right or not.

Oh yeah, forgot about that bit Unfortunately their international postage is flat rate or at least $26 minimum no matter what you order. I bought a whole heap of stuff including the whole carburettor from them so the postage was reasonable...not so reasonable for a $9 piece of plastic. Sounds like you definitely need a spacer or a taller adapter plate like in Dougs post though, then you'd clear everything.