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hey guys,

i went overseas and my L series sat for 6 months.

I was taking her for a 4wd near home and the temp started to red line and wouldn't drop even creeping.

I got home and flushed the radiator and got large chunks of calcium out of her i done a vinegar soak and rinse and all was good then i didn't drive again for about a month. i came back put some radiator flusher in and drove about 50klms had a knocking sound coming from the engine when accelerating (tick of death??) but otherwise ran fine and didn't budge over half.

The next day i took her out on a calm drive and ran out of fuel, just before i ran out of fuel a weird aircon like sound was coming from the engine. and the revs started jumping around then stalled.

I got about 10L of fuel and tried starting her but no luck... turns over and almost started a couple times..

any ideas??


going to pour fuel directly into the carby.

check fuel pump/filter.

dissy.




any input greatly appreciated.

Yarran wrote:just before i ran out of fuel a weird aircon like sound was coming from the engine. and the revs started jumping around then stalled.

I got about 10L of fuel and tried starting her but no luck... turns over and almost started a couple times..

any ideas??

Go for the fuel straight in the carb. It'll most likely run for a bit then stall. I don't know what year your L is but the later ones the fuel pump only operates when the engine is turning over/running. A shot down the carb will help get fuel up to the carb. You might have to do it more than once

I don't know what sort of noise or why you heard it just before you ran out of fuel. Hopefully it's nothing sinister!

Cheers

Bennie

El_Freddo wrote:Go for the fuel straight in the carb. It'll most likely run for a bit then stall. I don't know what year your L is but the later ones the fuel pump only operates when the engine is turning over/running. A shot down the carb will help get fuel up to the carb. You might have to do it more than once

I don't know what sort of noise or why you heard it just before you ran out of fuel. Hopefully it's nothing sinister!

Cheers

Bennie

cheers bennie,

its a 94, irrelevant now tho, the passenger side timing belt has had all the teeth chewed off and the cogs arnt moving, dissy isn't spinning. guessing now that sound i was hearing was the pistons hitting valves..

looks like im in the market again.

Pretty sure they are non-interference engines. Could be worth trying a new set of belts. You should be able to rotate the cam with either an old section of belt or with a tool a bit like whats used on angle grinders (you can also do it by hand but its pretty awkward reaching down between the radiator and block) . If it really is stuck hard, without some wrenching it would be hard to guess whats broke.

Regards

Doug

Subydoug wrote:Pretty sure they are non-interference engines. Could be worth trying a new set of belts. You should be able to rotate the cam with either an old section of belt or with a tool a bit like whats used on angle grinders (you can also do it by hand but its pretty awkward reaching down between the radiator and block) . If it really is stuck hard, without some wrenching it would be hard to guess whats broke.

Regards

Doug

oh ok! thanks doug I will give that a shot during the week.

i dont have any old belts but ill see what i can do.

pasenger side- none of the cogs are moving and the belt has been stripped totally smooth on the inside.

Drivers side- is rotating and belt intact.


so if the cam rotates i should be able to buy a new set of belts and get the timing done?

The cam will turn over.

Replace the belts and the tensioners if you can afford it. At the very least replace the dead belt - have fun removing the melted rubber from the gears of the stripped belt! Not fun!

Cheers

Bennie

Very common EA82 problem, the bearings in the LHS notched idler wheel seize up.
You can just change the bearing in the idler wheel, its cheap and common.
If you can, you can fit two bearings inside the idler wheel, just need to turn down the mount to make it fit.
Two bearings last a lot longer than OEM single bearing.
If the tensioners are seized, usually means new/used tensioner, unless someone can suggest how to fix the bearing.
And yes, it will not damage valves.

Cheers Bennie and Tambox,

I'm up in Karratha so one idler bearing would most likely be the good half of the price of a whole kit..

so I've got a kit on the way and will be installing it soon.

Will post pics of how I go, thanks again everyone.