Air Conditioning Compressor

Frosty2086 · Post by **Frosty2086** » Sun Aug 24, 2008 1:09 pm

Im not quite sure if this fits in here, but its the best i could find of the forum options!

I have just bought myself a new engine for the L series (EA82) thats doen sub 150k. I have a question. The new engine came with a airconditioning compressor attached. What i want to do is convert this to become a compressor for my tires etc. Has anyone got a few pics of similar stuf they have done? Any suggestions or tips.

While im at it what would you do to an engine before you dump it in? i was just going to clean it check all the timing belts, replace the leads, and filters. Any other things that you would recomend?

Cheers

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sun Aug 24, 2008 10:08 pm

I'd probabily do the timing belts. For me that'd be about it. For over kill you could do the water pump and oil pump too.

The air compressor thing - ask SuBaRiNo or AndrewT about what they did. I know it works, you just have to work out how to do it. SuBaRiNo has an air tank under the back of his car that can fill a tyre when he needs to. Sweet setup.

Cheers

Bennie

Battlewagon · Post by **Battlewagon** » Mon Aug 25, 2008 4:43 pm

I actually have an aircon compressor belt driven from an old washing machine motor as my shed compressor. Works very well, cost me nothing. I did need to fit a silencer/filter to the inlet, and mess around with the fittings on the outlet though.
If you want to run one in a car, then all you'll really need is some way to supply power to the electric clutch, an inlet filter and fittings for the outlet.
Some sort of overpressure device might be a good idea too.

stamp_licker · Post by **stamp_licker** » Mon Aug 25, 2008 5:06 pm

This one sums it up pretty simply http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/sho ... stcount=11
actually the whole thred might be of some use http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/sho ... hp?t=63720

Phizinza · Post by **Phizinza** » Tue Aug 26, 2008 2:44 pm

^ I don't like the copper pipe in that setup. Copper likes to work harden. So the vibrations will harden it til it cracks. But yeah, thats the general idea of it all. My brother used my old York aircon pump for the old Range Rover (its a single piston design and is suppose to be better) on his 4runner. Fills his 35" MTZ to 30psi in 80seconds from flat.
You don't need the pressure switch, but I would highly recommend a over pressure valve. And then just connect the wire from the clutch to a switch to positive. Connect the hose, hit the switch and pump up the tyres, easy.

If any of the hoses look old or warn, replace. Check all the vac hoses too, a small leak there and make an engine run crap. Timing belts of cause, but you don't have to change them you can just check for cracks and wear if your on a tight budget.
It all really depends on what you want to spend. If you've got the money for the works then do it.

Frosty2086 · Post by **Frosty2086** » Wed Aug 27, 2008 8:39 am

Cheers for the info guys,

I will take some pics of what i do and put them up for you. Im thinking of going tankless, with a simple oil soak foam at the intake for lubrication, and an oil catch on the outlet with a blow off valve. In terms of the engine, yes their is a bit of a budget, i would like to spend as little as possible (uni student). I bought the engine, and a gearbox from a 1994 l for $300 off a mate with a bunch of other bits and pieces like starter motors cloutch plates, windows etc. I have one more question while im at it. What is the best way to determine what ratio a transmission and diff are. I just want to make sure the gear box diff ratio is the same as my diff ratio. The box was kinda thrown in with the engine, so didnt really pay much attention, its a good box though!

Cheers

Phizinza · Post by **Phizinza** » Wed Aug 27, 2008 10:51 am

On the back of the diff there is a sticker with the ratio on it. 3.700 or 3.900 normally I tihnk. Or you can turn the pinion to find out too. Say if it goes round 3 times for the stubs to go once round then its a 3.0:1. If it goes around 3 and a half times then its a 3.5:1 ratio.
For the gearbox, stick it in 4WD, but not low range. Then stick it in fourth That should be where the shifter rod out the back of the gearbox is but pushed into the box. Then turn the clutch side just like its the pinion and watch the rear output like its the stubs.

As the engine is a non interference I would just check the timing belts and only replace if they look warn or cracked if your a student. Change the plugs but forget about the leads unless you get a problem which could be them. Change the rotor, and if the cap looks warn change that. Leave the pumps as they are. Thats what I'd do on a budget anyhow.

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Wed Aug 27, 2008 10:58 am

El_Freddo wrote:ask SuBaRiNo or AndrewT about what they did.

Ur thinking of what Vidler did to his Brumby he used to have I think, I havn't done anything like this to date