Headgasket
Headgasket
So i'm fairly sure i've done a headgasket on my ea81.
It's been using a bit of coolant for the last couple months, but i didn't really worry too much about it. Tried to start her up this arvo after work and after 5 attemps she finally kicked over. Started running on three cylinders and blowing white misty smoke/steam. Confirmed by pulling ignition lead off spark plug on cylinder 1, revs didn't change. Got home eventually and topped up the coolant after it had cooled down, but couldn't see any bubbles and the coolant wasn't milky.
My question is, will a product like chemiweld work, or is it too far gone?
It's been using a bit of coolant for the last couple months, but i didn't really worry too much about it. Tried to start her up this arvo after work and after 5 attemps she finally kicked over. Started running on three cylinders and blowing white misty smoke/steam. Confirmed by pulling ignition lead off spark plug on cylinder 1, revs didn't change. Got home eventually and topped up the coolant after it had cooled down, but couldn't see any bubbles and the coolant wasn't milky.
My question is, will a product like chemiweld work, or is it too far gone?
- El_Freddo
- Master Member
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- Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Bridgewater Vic
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^ I'd be doing the same. Forget Chemiweld if you love your subi, that'll just mask it for a little bit longer before you really have to do something about it.
The EA81 isn't as hard to work on (from what I can see - never pulled the heads off one of these) as the EA82 - there's no cam box and cam belts to deal with. Once you have shaved the heads and replace the head gaskets you'll once again have a very reliable subi motor that will service your needs for years to come.
Cheers
Bennie
The EA81 isn't as hard to work on (from what I can see - never pulled the heads off one of these) as the EA82 - there's no cam box and cam belts to deal with. Once you have shaved the heads and replace the head gaskets you'll once again have a very reliable subi motor that will service your needs for years to come.
Cheers
Bennie
Definitely sounds like a blown head gasket.
Chemiweld is not going to help here.....
New head gaskets are like $25 ea for aftermarket ones.
Chemiweld is not going to help here.....
New head gaskets are like $25 ea for aftermarket ones.
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BlackBox Motorsports - Subaru Suspension Systems
http://www.blackboxmotorsports.com.au
0438 887 746
'L' Series Touring Wagon - EJ22 & 4.111 AWD
Gen 1 Liberty GX – Worked EJ22 & 4.11 AWD
- AlpineRaven
- Senior Member
- Posts: 3682
- Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.
Chemiweld is a waste of time, I did that once and its not worth it. Do it properly is to remove the heads and replace the gaskets, only way is to remove the heads to find out what is really going on there. Can't be much of help with EA81, but for EA82 isnt hard to do.
Cheers
AP
Cheers
AP
Subarus that I have/had:
1995 Liberty "Rallye" - 5MT AWD, LSD - *written off 25/8/06 in towing accident.
1996 Liberty Wagon - SkiFX AWD 5MT D/R, Lifted.. Outback Sway Bar, 1.59:1 Low Gearing see thread: 1.59:1 in EJ Box Page
Sold at 385,000kms in July 2011.
2007 Liberty BP Wagon, 2.5i automatic

1995 Liberty "Rallye" - 5MT AWD, LSD - *written off 25/8/06 in towing accident.
1996 Liberty Wagon - SkiFX AWD 5MT D/R, Lifted.. Outback Sway Bar, 1.59:1 Low Gearing see thread: 1.59:1 in EJ Box Page
Sold at 385,000kms in July 2011.
2007 Liberty BP Wagon, 2.5i automatic

- El_Freddo
- Master Member
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- Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Bridgewater Vic
- Contact:
The EA81 is smaller than the EA82 in width, I'm sure the heads could be done with the motor still in, it would all rest on the head studs ('82s use bolts, '81s use studs from what I've seen) as to wether you could slide the head off the stud in the given space. It would be a much easier job to put back on than the '82 heads - no need to line up boltsshuffbag wrote:i pulled the heads on a ea82t, passenger side off/on no problems....driver side....
i just pulled the whole motor and put the ej in its place.
i dont think i'd touch the heads whilst the engine is still between the rails.

At the end of the day having the engine out gives you maximum access and also gives you the chance to replace clutch/rear main seal/service the oil pump (a lot easier to do out of the car) but these extra jobs come with extra cost - they're purely optional...
Cheers
Bennie
So when i started the car this arvo it was running on three cylinders, but upon driving it ran on all four and didn't blow any smoke.
I picked up a bottle of chemiweld and will put it in on friday. Anybody have any tips for flushing the cooling system? These are the steps i was going to follow:
- Remove the bottom radiator hose, unbolt the thermostat & housing and remove it from the block
- Remove the radiator drain plug
- Drain all the old coolant
- Flush water through the thermostat hole in the block, and flush the radiator
- Bold everything up, fill with water and run for a while, then add the Chemiweld
I picked up a bottle of chemiweld and will put it in on friday. Anybody have any tips for flushing the cooling system? These are the steps i was going to follow:
- Remove the bottom radiator hose, unbolt the thermostat & housing and remove it from the block
- Remove the radiator drain plug
- Drain all the old coolant
- Flush water through the thermostat hole in the block, and flush the radiator
- Bold everything up, fill with water and run for a while, then add the Chemiweld