How to remove drifeshaft from gearbox

81GGR · Post by **81GGR** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 4:47 pm

The gaerbox on my brumby is leaking oil out the driveshaft - I have a new seal and need to take the shaft out of the box - then unscrew the "plug" think that the seal sits in (and pre-tensions the diff I belief) replace the seals and put it all back together.

I recently did the same thing on my 6 speed in my forester and it took me about an hour.

I tried it on the brumby and am stuck. i have undone the lower ball joint and the other nuts etc which hold the hub in place so i can push it out away from the car - there is enough movement so it should move far enough to get the spline out of the box. I tried to then jimmy bar the shaft out of the box but it won't budge. I tried it from above and below (i even removed the headers to get more leverage as the cat was in the way). I used quite a lot of persuasion - gave up and put it all back together as I had to use the car.

Does anyone have any hints to help me - or have I missed a locking bolt on the gearbox end or something

does the car need to be in neutral - as an after thought i know it was in gear when i tried

(ie: my questions is in relation to the drive shaft not the plug in the box that it goes into - i can get that to turn but can get the shaft out about 5mm only)

The car is at the mechanic getting a rwc and i know this will definitely need doing and i'm trying to save money.

any and all help is appreciated.

trev.

Brumble · Post by **Brumble** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 5:22 pm

I'm not sure about the setup on the forester but on the brumby you don't remove the spline from the box. The gearbox has splined axle stubs that protrude from the box and the CV shafts slide onto these. The shafts are held on with a roll pin that goes through the CV shaft and the axle stub. You will need a pin punch to tap it out before the shaft will go anywhere.

justincase41 · Post by **justincase41** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 6:24 pm

When you knock out the roller pin, make sure push it from the right side on the cv cup. In the pic, you can see the tappered edge on the hole. Dont push the roller pin out from this side, push it out from the other side or else you will end up smashing and hacking the roller pin. When you put the cv back onto the inner cv spline, make sure the hole on the spline matches with the hole on the cv cup or else pin won't meet up. Also make sure when you push the pin back into the cv joint inner cup, you push it into the tappered side on the cup.

red_rocket · Post by **red_rocket** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 8:08 pm

i had to disconnect my swaybar also to get extra leverage(L series though)

AlpineRaven · Post by **AlpineRaven** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 8:46 pm

You can't remove the stubs unless you split the gearbox apart. As there is circlip at the end of the stubs. Shown in picture blow -

As you said the oil is leaking... remove the CV cups that is being hold by the subs - you'll need 5.5mm split pin punch to push the pin out, and the cup should removed easily, if not, use WD40 and move it backwards and forwards, (once I had to use Jeremy bar to remove it because it was rusted and damaged the dust cover).
On the gearbox - There is an 12mm bolt locking plate that holds the seal cup that you can wind it out, mark it with a marker and count turns out, should be about 5.5 turns before its free. Reverse back when you find it. Once the seal cup, there is a seal behind it that goes on the stub axle.. You cannot replace the seal while on the gearbox, it has to be removed because the seal is inside of the cup.
Cheers
AP

81GGR · Post by **81GGR** » Sat Oct 31, 2009 11:18 pm

thanks for the above reply's - most appreciated - the pictures help too.

if i understand the above posts correctly i can:

1. remove the driveshaft by knocking out the pin (probably over simplifying it - but this is where i was going wrong);

2. unscrew the "ring/cup" thing that goes around the shaft in the box with the stub in place - change the seals and put it all back together

(ie. i don't have to pull the box apart to change the seal - i am hoping to avoid that!)

please let me know if i have got it wrong.

(fyi - on the forester the drive shafts are male and go into the box - there are no axle stubs - which seems to be why i was having troubles as i thought the brumby would be the same).

thank you all - will give this a shot - cheers,

trev.

tex · Post by **tex** » Mon Nov 02, 2009 10:47 am

Maybe I'll help you out a little too and tell you with the brumby to get the half shaft off the gear box you need to disconnect the ball joint at the base of each front shock so you can move them out enough to get the CV joint all the way off the spline! I 'd say thats where your having issues getting the shaft off, Also how did you with your roadworthy and have you considered putting in a five speed instead?

chubby37 · Post by **chubby37** » Mon Nov 02, 2009 12:16 pm

i live at riverview but if you need a hand and happen to be over this way one weekend i,m happy to give you a hand as i have done these seals before

bill

81GGR · Post by **81GGR** » Mon Nov 02, 2009 12:46 pm

tex wrote:Maybe I'll help you out a little too and tell you with the brumby to get the half shaft off the gear box you need to disconnect the ball joint at the base of each front shock so you can move them out enough to get the CV joint all the way off the spline! I 'd say thats where your having issues getting the shaft off, Also how did you with your roadworthy and have you considered putting in a five speed instead?

removing the ball joint was the first thing i did - where i was going wrong was the pin through the driveshaft onto the gearbox stub - hopefully this thread and all the tips in it will help other people as well as me

fingers crossed i will have it sorted this week in my spare time after work etc.

hmmm - how much is a 5 speed - from what car and do they bolt straight in (i am assuming from an l-series? - but i am pretty new to the older model subaru's)

other than the leak the roadworthy is mostly under control - just need some tyres, brake pads etc. which aren't a big deal.

Matt · Post by **Matt** » Mon Nov 02, 2009 1:30 pm

5 Speed are worth around $300 or more depending on km's. They don't exactly bolt up there is a few things that need to be sorted, but it is all relatively easy. Basically Brumby 9" clutch L series Clutch / Pressure plate, l series clutch cable and pedal box (maybe pedal box or modified brumby one), either 1 piece tailshaft (custom made) or 2 piece l series tailshaft with bracket or cross member for center bearing, slightly modified gearbox mounts, 4wd selector changed and slight wiring change. It does sound like a lot but is relatively easy for someone with basic tools and a welder / grinder. Search the threads for 5 Speed into MY/ Brumby.

I have just done it to mine and it is well worth the effort it is a completely different car to drive.

81GGR · Post by **81GGR** » Fri Nov 13, 2009 1:09 pm

all sorted and rwc done - thanks everyone : )

rubisubi · Post by **rubisubi** » Mon Nov 16, 2009 9:59 am

Hey i need to do mine, do you have a part number? where did you buy the seal from and how much did they cost you? Cheers Pawl.

81GGR · Post by **81GGR** » Mon Nov 16, 2009 10:46 am

suspares on the sunshine coast ordered it in for me when i got a seatbelt and stuff from them for the rwc.

it was about $17 - genuine part from subaru. make sure you get:

1. the seal that the drive shaft goes into (ie: the the small one); and

2. the large o-ring that goes around the outside of the large "plug" that you have to unscrew from the gearbox.

i think i still have the plastic packaging at home with the part numbers - i will have a look tonight. i see from your avatar you are at kangaroo point - i would suggest city subaru - i get parts from them for my forester and they are great to deal with.

81GGR · Post by **81GGR** » Wed Nov 18, 2009 9:27 am

i looked at my left over packets last night and i don't have the part numbers sorry - if you call city subaru and explain what you are after they won't have a problem identifying the correct part for you.

91liberty · Post by **91liberty** » Sat Nov 21, 2009 4:10 pm

[quote="tex"]Maybe I'll help you out a little too and tell you with the brumby to get the half shaft off the gear box you need to disconnect the ball joint at the base of each front shock so you can move them out enough to get the CV joint all the way off the spline! QUOTE]

Is this the same with a liberty,I need to replace the clutch.....gearbox out or motor?
CHEERS

Post by **TOONGA** » Sat Nov 21, 2009 9:57 pm

99% of the time its easier to get the engine out just watch the electricals and the plumbing

TOONGA

91liberty · Post by **91liberty** » Sun Nov 22, 2009 1:59 pm

TOONGA wrote:99% of the time its easier to get the engine out just watch the electricals and the plumbing

TOONGA

Cheers TOONGA was leaning that way

tex · Post by **tex** » Sun Nov 22, 2009 3:05 pm

Dunno my preference with the libertys so far has been to split them but without proper tools it'd make it hard mating the engine to the gearbox, if you were just doing the clutch i'd leave the box in!

91liberty · Post by **91liberty** » Wed Nov 25, 2009 7:36 pm

engine to gearbox married fine had a hard time getting engine mounts into line but all finished today ....job done all in engine bay without winch/pulley etc cheers