Clutch kits whats the best

baitman · Post by **baitman** » Tue Jan 04, 2011 1:09 pm

Hi guys looking a replacing my clutch in my 04 gen 4 outback im after a heavy duty clutch something that can withstand small amounts of riding the clutch etc. Im interested to know what others have used and whats working well, this car gets itself offroad quite a lot and once the lift goes in (very soon) its clutch is going to have to be up to the task.

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Tue Jan 04, 2011 1:26 pm

Does it have the Dual Mass Flywheel? Check this before you go any further. If it does, you might want to look at converting it to the conventional type.

Really you cant go wrong with Exedy clutches as they are OEM fitted to Subarus. You can also get higher loaded ones for most models.

baitman · Post by **baitman** » Tue Jan 04, 2011 7:25 pm

just did some research on dual mass flywheels they sound like crap many wrxs and libertys had them replaced to solid ones under warranty how do i tell if ive got one

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Fri Jan 07, 2011 6:24 pm

baitman wrote:just did some research on dual mass flywheels they sound like crap many wrxs and libertys had them replaced to solid ones under warranty how do i tell if ive got one

99.99% sure you'll have one but the only way is to have a visual check (remove clutch pressure plate) and see if you have the Torx bolts on the flywheel/crank. Best to remove it and pop down to your local Subaru Wreckers and which DMF in hand, see if you can buy a solid flywheel with the same dimensions

baitman · Post by **baitman** » Sat Jan 08, 2011 3:29 pm

Well i spoke to subaru gave them the VIN and engine no and turns out ive got a dual mass flywheel

. He told me how to work it out off the codes which is good. On the engine number the seventh letter in refers to the flywheel if you have a S it means Solid If you have a T it means dual mass Eg. My no. EJ252MTAHE Subaru offer a solid kit for $999 However the clutch plate wont withstand the beating ill give it so im going to get an exedy solid kit Heavy duty comes with everything even bolts so you can throw away those crap torx plus bolts which hold the dual mass on. My first quote from global auto was $1300 im going to ring every single supplier on this one.

Post by **TOONGA** » Sat Jan 08, 2011 3:40 pm

this ebay store is in the US but even with shipping a complete kit would be cheaper than 1300 dollars

http://stores.ebay.com/gripforce-clutch ... ec0Q2em322

this is the range of flywheels and clutch kits they have

http://stores.ebay.com/gripforce-clutch ... d=98015562

and ebay Australia

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Subaru-Forester- ... 3363b2a59b

TOONGA

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Sun Jan 09, 2011 9:16 am

TOONGA wrote:http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Subaru-Forester- ... 3363b2a59b

TOONGA

This looks a good deal.. I wonder if it comes with the replacement flywheel bolts?

Phizinza · Post by **Phizinza** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 12:08 pm

Sorry to hijack a bit here but I read somewhere on this internet that you could use a 90's model Impreza flywheel and clutch in the Gen3 Outback. Is this the case? Anyone know?
I hate this dual mass bouncy crap that I am putting up with in my Outback and would rather like to get a standard flywheel and new clutch for when I convert the low range gearing...

baitman · Post by **baitman** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 8:33 pm

Well i got stuck into changing the clutch in the outback before i put the lift kit in so he is the run down on how to change the clutch
1. You need to get the car high off the ground and level so the gearbox will just slide straight off the shaft i reversed the car onto the ramps apply handbrake, then put put stands under the front.remove front wheels.
2. Disconnect negative off battery
3. remove airbox from rear of engine to access top gearbox bolts,plugs etc.
4.drain gearbox oil you will need a torx plus 60 tool to undo
5.unplug plugs at top of gearbox (you cant get these wrong putting back together there colour coded)
6.unplug cat sensors in exaust and remove middle section
7.mark the tail shaft at the diff end with white out or something, remove tail shaft and center bearing and carefully draw out the tailshaft from the gearbox be careful not to damage the oil seal and the centre bearing you really need the aid of a friend for this.
8.disconnect the low range cable by removing pin and loosening the large adjusting nut.
9. remove gear shift linkages and just let hang to one side.
10.scribe a line around the top camber adjusting bolt in the strut tower.
11. disconnect sway bar
12. remove steering arm from hub use a puller dont hit it with a hammer
13. remove ABS sensor from hub dont allow to come in contact with a magnet.
14. remove brake calipers and cable tie up out of the way
15.remove lower ball joint through bolt
16.remove the two camber bolts through strut tower.
17.have someone hold the hub and drive shaft while you remove the lower conrtol arm from the ball joint i used a rubber mallet and a block of timber and came out with one hit.
18.remove drive shafts from gearbox by using a crow bar and timber between the gearbox and cv joint housing (the green part). there is a cir clip inside the box which detracts on the shafts as they are pulled from the box.
19. repeat steps 10 to 19 from the other side.
20. remove starter motor, slave clyinder and pitch rod
21. place large trolly jack under the centre of the gear box jack up until your just taking the weight of the box
22. remove the two gear box cross members from under the gear box
23.remove bolts/nuts that attach gearbox to engine.
24. check and re check that you have undone everything between engine and gearbox.
25.lying on the ground next to the gearbox gently rock the gearbox off the engine then role it back with the trolly jack while letting the jack down slowly secure the gearbox to the jack so it wont role off.
26. remove clutch cover
27.remove the crap dual mass flywheel from the engine with a long shank torx plus 50 tool
28. tap the new spigot bearing into new flywheel
29.clean the new solid mass flywheel with metho to remove grease and use
rubber gloves to install new flywheel
30.use a clutch alining tool or lathe up the end of the broom stick to fit the clutch plate and cover onto flywheel.
31. remove old clutch dust from bell housing
32. fit new thrust bearing to input shaft.
33. roll gearbox back in place and jack up and aline bottom through bolts slowly slide box back onto engine.
34. do everything in reverse to put it all back together
35. dont forget the gearbox oil
36. now enjoy the new clutch and the $500 in labour saved.

baitman · Post by **baitman** » Mon Jan 31, 2011 8:41 pm

more photos

Tradewind · Post by **Tradewind** » Wed Mar 02, 2011 8:03 pm

Exedy clutches - always a good thing

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