engine oil
engine oil
hi
not sure which engine oil should i use for brumby 1990 e81 280000k?
thanks
not sure which engine oil should i use for brumby 1990 e81 280000k?
thanks
What ever you use, be sure to use the same each time after. Maybe go for an engine flush then start with some new oil.
I use Penrite 20/40??? and have done for several years. I also put in an additive of Wynns Charge or Supreme for oil. Any brand name additive will do but I have used this stuff in all my cars at every second oil change.
Whilst changing the oil, I always replace the oil filter every time.
PS Also use the Wynn's stuff in the gear box and diff. Just thickens things up a little and puts a coating on the metal parts.
I use Penrite 20/40??? and have done for several years. I also put in an additive of Wynns Charge or Supreme for oil. Any brand name additive will do but I have used this stuff in all my cars at every second oil change.
Whilst changing the oil, I always replace the oil filter every time.
PS Also use the Wynn's stuff in the gear box and diff. Just thickens things up a little and puts a coating on the metal parts.
- Brumby Kid
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For my 91 Brumby im going to use. (when things get sorted)
Valvoline 20w/50 XLD Plus.
Valvoline 20w/50 XLD Plus.
When life gives you a corner, drop a gear, pitch, and stomp the loud pedal
Bianca: 1991 Subaru Brumby
My First / Project car
EA81 Rebuilt by Tony Knight from knight Engines
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Bianca: 1991 Subaru Brumby
My First / Project car
EA81 Rebuilt by Tony Knight from knight Engines
2" body lift
25" 185r14 Yokahama Delivery Star, light truck tyres
2" Sports exhaust
Rear Aguip step/bar
Liberty seats
"Bianca"
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Mums Car 08 Liberty Wagon
- d_generate
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Yeah thicker is better on old engines, I wouldn't spend a fortune, maybe some Valvoline 10/15-60.
98 Libbo with V3 STI running gear. 13.0 @ 105mph with CAI & 3" Zorst:mrgreen:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TKrsF-2JS3M

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TKrsF-2JS3M


I'm big fan of Penrite.
Using Penrite HPR10 (10W 50) in my Foz (165,000kms)
Be careful not to use too thick an oil as it can actually REDUCE protection by taking too long to flow through all the oil channels at first start up when cold.
To my understanding the 1st number is the oils viscosity when cold, the 2nd when hot.
In your engine i certainly wouldnt go less than a 50. Not sure whether that should be 10W-50 or 20W-50.
As for the brand, you can see everyone has their favourites. Just make sure its a top brand. Spend a little extra on your oil...it stops your engine from blowing up!
Using Penrite HPR10 (10W 50) in my Foz (165,000kms)
Be careful not to use too thick an oil as it can actually REDUCE protection by taking too long to flow through all the oil channels at first start up when cold.
To my understanding the 1st number is the oils viscosity when cold, the 2nd when hot.
In your engine i certainly wouldnt go less than a 50. Not sure whether that should be 10W-50 or 20W-50.
As for the brand, you can see everyone has their favourites. Just make sure its a top brand. Spend a little extra on your oil...it stops your engine from blowing up!
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- d_generate
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I wouldn't touch Valvoline myself but for an old car it's not worth buying an expensive oil, changing it every 5,000k's is more important, I use Castrol Edge fully synthetic.
I remember back in about 75 a mate worked on his own in a ore car rail wheel lathe building, he had a beaten up old Valiant wagon which used & dripped oil like a Texas Well so he used to put a lb or two of free grease in it every couple of days, it lasted a few months before finally going to the great Chrysler yard in the sky.
I remember back in about 75 a mate worked on his own in a ore car rail wheel lathe building, he had a beaten up old Valiant wagon which used & dripped oil like a Texas Well so he used to put a lb or two of free grease in it every couple of days, it lasted a few months before finally going to the great Chrysler yard in the sky.
98 Libbo with V3 STI running gear. 13.0 @ 105mph with CAI & 3" Zorst:mrgreen:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TKrsF-2JS3M

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TKrsF-2JS3M


- steptoe
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20W50 Valvoline XLD is the diet mine has been on for ever. The intention to at least refresh the oil and filter is good for these old things. See too many older cars that don't get the respect.Yeah, maybe add an oil flush stuff prior to draining. Dealers do it to 30,000km Falcons ! I also use a simple method, change now, and then every time odo hits the 10,000km mark like 350,000km, 360,000,370,000....no need to mark filter, rememeber, or lube sticker etc. Filter everytime too
- mud_king91
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That's weird as I read recently it's the only "pure" synthetic.....or are you talking about their mineral based oils?
98 Libbo with V3 STI running gear. 13.0 @ 105mph with CAI & 3" Zorst:mrgreen:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TKrsF-2JS3M

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TKrsF-2JS3M


- mud_king91
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all of them they are the crappest oils for their cost your bettoer off using vetable oil... it got to the point where we ended up breaking contract and using penzoil because to many customers were coming back with complaints we ran the penzoil equal of mobil 2000 and never had a problem after that but anything in the 20/50 range will be good for that engine just i cant recomend anything mobil... i dont even use their servos anymore
Why not? Arent we good enough lol?!mud_king91 wrote:i worked in a mobil workshop... so i can happily DONT use mobil branded oil penzoil or penrite are the best... dont think the public has much access to penzoil tho
seriously, I'v heard penzoil gets used in racing a lot
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'97 Forester: EJ22E; 4" Custom Body Lift; JDM STi plated LSD; 20mm WRX RSB; Snorkel; Kings
- mud_king91
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its one of the best oils you can use its the one that makes a noticable difference to your engine... used it in my rodeo made it so easy to start in mornings and so much cleaner oil changes but i dont think the public can get iv tried and gave up just did oil changes in the workshop instead but ill ask around
- discopotato03
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A carburetted lump thats how many years old ?
If you want to keep it clean , internally anyway , the maximum I would go is 5000 and with the age/wear tear on those old engines 3000 would be kinder .
The issue is that lots of ring blow by and probably not famous carburettor condition leads to oil contamination with fuel/combustion products/condensation .
End of story THE only way to have clean oil is to replace it regularly and always use a decent filter when you do .
BTW that Castrol Edge is not real synthetic oil as in made from a synthetic base stock . Its hydrolised mineral oil and because of a marketing loop hole these can be adverstised as "synthetic" oils .
Also people be very aware that many oils have changed their formulations in recent years because the so called green eco Nazis have declared that the anti wear aditives known as ZDDP (Zinc Di Alky Dithio Phosphate) are being slowly removed because over time they are supposed to poison cat converters . More current engines are growing roller cam followers to avoid rocker/cam lobe failures .
This doesn't help you much with a flat tappet engine like ancient pushrod V8s , and EA81s , and I wouldn't think rockers dragged over cam lobes in 82s and some EJs would like it much either .
Don't tell anyone but one answer is to use diesel oils because they really do need the ZDDP in high load areas such as gudgeon pins , actually the Yanks really like a particular diesel oil in their turbo EJs and I can't rember now which one it is . I now a bloke who brings it in here because its not an oil normally sold in Oz . It'll get a mention in the American Zoob sites I'm sure .
A .
If you want to keep it clean , internally anyway , the maximum I would go is 5000 and with the age/wear tear on those old engines 3000 would be kinder .
The issue is that lots of ring blow by and probably not famous carburettor condition leads to oil contamination with fuel/combustion products/condensation .
End of story THE only way to have clean oil is to replace it regularly and always use a decent filter when you do .
BTW that Castrol Edge is not real synthetic oil as in made from a synthetic base stock . Its hydrolised mineral oil and because of a marketing loop hole these can be adverstised as "synthetic" oils .
Also people be very aware that many oils have changed their formulations in recent years because the so called green eco Nazis have declared that the anti wear aditives known as ZDDP (Zinc Di Alky Dithio Phosphate) are being slowly removed because over time they are supposed to poison cat converters . More current engines are growing roller cam followers to avoid rocker/cam lobe failures .
This doesn't help you much with a flat tappet engine like ancient pushrod V8s , and EA81s , and I wouldn't think rockers dragged over cam lobes in 82s and some EJs would like it much either .
Don't tell anyone but one answer is to use diesel oils because they really do need the ZDDP in high load areas such as gudgeon pins , actually the Yanks really like a particular diesel oil in their turbo EJs and I can't rember now which one it is . I now a bloke who brings it in here because its not an oil normally sold in Oz . It'll get a mention in the American Zoob sites I'm sure .
A .
- brockharro
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