Well, I know I am right coz I have an EA82T of 85.86 model, also have a few manifolds with these bits you have and don't have. I found a replacement solenoid for my EGR on a EA82 carby manifold. You also need to find a white plastic conector, two female spades? in the loom nearby to connect. Also helps you if get a long vac line and run from the EGR end to inside cabin to feel the vacuum when it works.
On another think , my EGR solenoid , think I know EGR works all the time the vac allows it to - not restrictd by the ECU at all as manual says it should not operate until op temp, not operate at idle or above 45 kph so get the idea EGR is for low speeds in towns ???
You could just try bridge the vac line between the two screws and see if EGR works. No harm to pull EGR to see if it is clear of crud too
EA82T Vacuum lines
If you believe you got a subaru worth buying - then its worth perservering and "fixing it"
Try finding a turbo xmember from someone on this or other forums.
If no joy:
Modifying the crossmember, is not difficult just a pain in the preverbial.
Mark out in white paint (white out pen etc. )where the turbo pipe sits relative to the member and allow a few mm more left-right-down-back.
Idealy remove member from car and grind/cut (or is it cut then grind) accordingly. Then you will need to replace what has been removed with say a half pipe section of mild steel from exhaust pipe (welded in place ) - to maintain structural integrity.
Paint or powdercoat pending time and money budget, to prevent rust on newly done metal cutting/welding.
If I had a pic I would post it to illustrate:-|
Try finding a turbo xmember from someone on this or other forums.
If no joy:
Modifying the crossmember, is not difficult just a pain in the preverbial.
Mark out in white paint (white out pen etc. )where the turbo pipe sits relative to the member and allow a few mm more left-right-down-back.
Idealy remove member from car and grind/cut (or is it cut then grind) accordingly. Then you will need to replace what has been removed with say a half pipe section of mild steel from exhaust pipe (welded in place ) - to maintain structural integrity.
Paint or powdercoat pending time and money budget, to prevent rust on newly done metal cutting/welding.
If I had a pic I would post it to illustrate:-|
Hi there,
An update on the progress so far.
I went for a short drive on Saturday and discovered (as expected) that the exhaust does indeed hit on the cross member while driving. Besides being a pain in the backside, is this going to cause any damage until I can fix it or find a replacement cross member? I need this car to be my daily driver but I don't want to make it worse (or break something else) while I'm driving it around.
Secondly I discovered that the clutch pedal is binding up and I can't depress/release it smoothly. Just pumping the pedal in and out works ok, but trying to release it smoothly to take off/change gears is almost impossible. It seems to be binding up under the dash, I stuck my head up there and sprayed silicon spray on the bushes that the pedal pivots on but it didn't make any difference. I got under the bonnet and disconnected the cable from the clutch fork and it seems to move freely then, so I don't think the cable is seized. Does anyone have any idea what might be going on here?
Once I resolve these issues I can get on and sell the NA L Series I have at home which will give me some funds to spend on this one. And one less car in the driveway will make the war office happy ...
Cheers,
Wrxpc
An update on the progress so far.
I went for a short drive on Saturday and discovered (as expected) that the exhaust does indeed hit on the cross member while driving. Besides being a pain in the backside, is this going to cause any damage until I can fix it or find a replacement cross member? I need this car to be my daily driver but I don't want to make it worse (or break something else) while I'm driving it around.
Secondly I discovered that the clutch pedal is binding up and I can't depress/release it smoothly. Just pumping the pedal in and out works ok, but trying to release it smoothly to take off/change gears is almost impossible. It seems to be binding up under the dash, I stuck my head up there and sprayed silicon spray on the bushes that the pedal pivots on but it didn't make any difference. I got under the bonnet and disconnected the cable from the clutch fork and it seems to move freely then, so I don't think the cable is seized. Does anyone have any idea what might be going on here?
Once I resolve these issues I can get on and sell the NA L Series I have at home which will give me some funds to spend on this one. And one less car in the driveway will make the war office happy ...
Cheers,
Wrxpc
Success!
Tonight I pulled the clutch pedal assembly apart from under the dash and discovered that, despite my liberal coating of Silicone spray, the white bushes inside the pedal pivot were bone dry. I cleaned everything up with a rag and lacking proper grease I coated them inside and out in Silicone spray, and put it all back together again.
Crossed my fingers and pressed the pedal down ...smooth as silk! Woo hoo!
So after that I got my first proper drive in the little beastie. I must say I am very impressed with the 'T' in EA82T! The performance difference is incredible
There are a few things to tidy up (roof lining is falling down for one) and I think I heard a bit of a CV noise while cornering but overall I think I'm on a winner.
I thought the temperature gauge was broken for a while as it didn't appear to move but after about 45 minutes of driving it had moved about a needle's width off the bottom. I tried the heater and there was very little heat coming out of the vents so I assume someone has taken the thermostat out (as always seems to happen with country cars) but I'll worry about that later.
It also has a fairly large flat spot when it's cold but I might have to take it to RSR to have a look at that, potentially it has something to do with the missing EGR solenoid and blocked off vacuum lines? Out of my depth here so any other thoughts would be appreciated.
Cheers,
Wrxpc
Tonight I pulled the clutch pedal assembly apart from under the dash and discovered that, despite my liberal coating of Silicone spray, the white bushes inside the pedal pivot were bone dry. I cleaned everything up with a rag and lacking proper grease I coated them inside and out in Silicone spray, and put it all back together again.
Crossed my fingers and pressed the pedal down ...smooth as silk! Woo hoo!
So after that I got my first proper drive in the little beastie. I must say I am very impressed with the 'T' in EA82T! The performance difference is incredible
There are a few things to tidy up (roof lining is falling down for one) and I think I heard a bit of a CV noise while cornering but overall I think I'm on a winner.I thought the temperature gauge was broken for a while as it didn't appear to move but after about 45 minutes of driving it had moved about a needle's width off the bottom. I tried the heater and there was very little heat coming out of the vents so I assume someone has taken the thermostat out (as always seems to happen with country cars) but I'll worry about that later.
It also has a fairly large flat spot when it's cold but I might have to take it to RSR to have a look at that, potentially it has something to do with the missing EGR solenoid and blocked off vacuum lines? Out of my depth here so any other thoughts would be appreciated.
Cheers,
Wrxpc
-
steptoe
- Master Member
- Posts: 11582
- Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: 14 miles outside Gotham City
Good stuff. On the flat spot - do you get fast idle on cold start up ? These early ones have a fast idle air bypass through a unit on the thermostat housing allows air to bypass throttle going from unit to manifold via 1/2" rubber hose that can be hard as, break or have small holes. Unit may not be in service or working correctly ? Could be somthing else too 