EA82 engine knock/tick
- steptoe
- Master Member
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- Location: 14 miles outside Gotham City
Nason is sort of a brander than manufacturer - could be ajusa inside. At that price might have to buy a set meself !!
Be aware that it may take a good slow drive around the blocks bfore the tick of new ones goes - bit of heat soak thing ???????????....
Likley worry you at first like it did me, coz they new should be good immediately
fingers Xed
Be aware that it may take a good slow drive around the blocks bfore the tick of new ones goes - bit of heat soak thing ???????????....
Likley worry you at first like it did me, coz they new should be good immediately
fingers Xed
- steptoe
- Master Member
- Posts: 11582
- Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: 14 miles outside Gotham City
many components are made for peanuts and sold for macadamia. I once got the chance to see a price for a fuel pump suits old red motor Holden six as it passed from one retail outlet to another, both owned by same mother company @ ~ 15 bucks with a retail of ~ $75. Opened my eyes to realising the cost of buying the things in bulk, handling, storing, handling and selling and finally getting their money back. Maybe they are finally getting their money back !
The car is running. Rough but running and driveable.
As expected there is a bit of a tick but nothing like it was.
I could only prime 2 of the new lifters as they were a mongrel to do and they took the best part of 1.5 hours to do.
I tried standing them up in oil (thinner than normal - 10W-30) and pumping them up (like the manuals state) but ended up with sore fingers. Tried injecting them in all positions with oil in a syringe but only limited success. Tried forced injection with an oil can and still no real success.
Ended up putting them in only partially primed.
Will do as suggested and take the car for a drive when I have put a bit of heat into the engine and changed the engine oil and filter.
All up, a very nice learning experience.
P.S. not sure yet but with all this I am hoping to have solved the leaking front cam seal too by fixing the 2 cam box threads. See how this goes.
As expected there is a bit of a tick but nothing like it was.
I could only prime 2 of the new lifters as they were a mongrel to do and they took the best part of 1.5 hours to do.
I tried standing them up in oil (thinner than normal - 10W-30) and pumping them up (like the manuals state) but ended up with sore fingers. Tried injecting them in all positions with oil in a syringe but only limited success. Tried forced injection with an oil can and still no real success.
Ended up putting them in only partially primed.
Will do as suggested and take the car for a drive when I have put a bit of heat into the engine and changed the engine oil and filter.
All up, a very nice learning experience.
P.S. not sure yet but with all this I am hoping to have solved the leaking front cam seal too by fixing the 2 cam box threads. See how this goes.
I think I will do as, I think, bennie suggested and pull one apart to see what is in them.
I am guessing the trick is to get all the air out of their internals and filled with oil rather than air.
Oh well, when time permits.
Changing the engine oil and filter now and will check the timing later this arvo.
I am guessing the trick is to get all the air out of their internals and filled with oil rather than air.
Oh well, when time permits.
Changing the engine oil and filter now and will check the timing later this arvo.
- El_Freddo
- Master Member
- Posts: 12626
- Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Bridgewater Vic
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You could try running a thinner oil for a 1000km to help prime them up. I've not heard of this being done and I don't know what other issues might arise from doing with with an older engine - lower oil pressure at temp?
The other trick I've thought about for priming is heating the lifters in an oven then placing them in oil too cool off in. There's no rubber parts in the lifter to damage so the heat shouldn't be a problem, plus I'd reckon they'd get pretty hot in the engine anyway.
I think with a few heat cycles they should prime up just fine over a week
Cheers
Bennie
The other trick I've thought about for priming is heating the lifters in an oven then placing them in oil too cool off in. There's no rubber parts in the lifter to damage so the heat shouldn't be a problem, plus I'd reckon they'd get pretty hot in the engine anyway.
I think with a few heat cycles they should prime up just fine over a week

Cheers
Bennie
Took the car for a drive, when the engine was started the lifters on the side I worked on (drivers) ticked fairly loudly for a couple of seconds then went pretty good.
Drove the car for about 5 ks around the block and the ticking came back as the engine heated up but nowhere near as bad as before I replaced the lifters.
Will take the car to work tomorrow (50 ks round trip) and see how things go.
If still no good I might chuck in a bottle of lifter quite as this seemed to work previously.
Still, the way things are now it is quite livable if not slightly anoying.
Drove the car for about 5 ks around the block and the ticking came back as the engine heated up but nowhere near as bad as before I replaced the lifters.
Will take the car to work tomorrow (50 ks round trip) and see how things go.
If still no good I might chuck in a bottle of lifter quite as this seemed to work previously.
Still, the way things are now it is quite livable if not slightly anoying.
Hi, l don't know if this is helpful but l went to a suby mechanic in Lismore with my 92 L series tick, tick, ticking & he reckons 90% of the time its the oil pump rotor shaft seal. page 299 of Gregories manual describes it in more detail as a common problem for OHC engine EA82. It says cases of noisy hydraulic tappets have been attributed to a worn oil pump rotor shaft oil seal. when this wears air is drawn thru the shaft into the rotors aerating the engine oil & reducing the amount of oil getting to the tappets. Each camshaft housing also has a secondary oil pressure relief valve which maintains a constant oil pressure to the tappets. Excess oil from the relief valve flows thru the oil relief pipe & sprays onto the rockers. if the tappet noise is limited to one side of the engine it is possible that the relief valve in that camshaft housing is stuck partially open.