MUDRAT's Manual to Auto conversion thread

legacytt · Post by **legacytt** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 10:21 am

Variable Torque Distribution I believe.

Ben · Post by **Ben** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 1:15 pm

BYB-01 wrote:Hi-jack. Ben, what is wrong with yoru manual? How much for it when you yank it out?

Synchros mostly, and you can keep your prying fingers off my low range gears

Fang · Post by **Fang** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 1:19 pm

Further the hijack. Hehe is it just me - or does there seem to be a demand now for these boxes for the pilfering of their low gears?

I spose im guilty as charged as well

Ben · Post by **Ben** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 1:30 pm

jzk25 wrote:I've got a VTD TT 4.44 box with 80k on it and the tcu and wiring. Also have a 4.11 gen 2 NA box originally out of my TT wagon that was in good working order, it has a TCU as well. Not sure on value as I haven't really thought about selling them, they were just spares for our cars.

I believe Steverisingsun has a TT box for sale also.

I would be happy to spend up to $800 converting my car to auto if I can get away with that. Drove it yesterday on the pacific highway in the rain and decided that 2wd EJ20 L's on BFG AT's are a death trap - I really need awd, the wheel spin was fierce...

I'd be after a 4.44 with 2.785 first gear ratio...

Alternatively, I could easily be parted with "Well under $10k" for a 97 Foz if you knew the whereabout of one - something I could beat up, and still handle better than this L of mine... A man/at one would be fine...

legacytt · Post by **legacytt** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 6:40 pm

Just an idea here, keen to know if it is true?

My previous L series, now Fatz's, has the VTD box behind an EJ22 using the Gen 2 NA loom but the TT TCU. Going on the info here I
suspect that if you put a fuse in the FWD socket behind the drivers strut
tower this may activate the diff lock as with the NA box this applies 12v to
the solenoid and so gives Front wheel drive. With the VTD the opposite applies, 12V gives locked centre with the rest of
the time it being only partially locked and possibly acting as an open
centre diff. If it works you just have to put a switch into the wire leading
either to or from the fuse holder and leave the fuse in permanently so you
can open and close the circuit at will. My TT has the fuse holder in the same spot but it says diff lock instead. I didn't realise the potential untill I found out the box has a real centre diff so can never be in FWD.

Is this theory correct? Have suggested Fatz tries this, will be keen to know if it works as it makes the wiring issue fairly easy.

jzk25 · Post by **jzk25** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 6:40 pm

I'd be happy to part with my box etc. plus fitting advice if needed for less than your budget. I'd be happier if you bought my wifes TT wagon though.

Not sure on the first gear ratio though.

Re Fozzas - we have a 99 model on the lot in good mechanical order but a few body dings for $10k. That's with a stat warranty and all that other dealer crap too.
Fozza's are the new L series.

Fortunately they now have good engines, gearboxes, suspension, styling, brakes and interior.

legacytt · Post by **legacytt** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 6:44 pm

Must have posted at the same time Al, interested in your comments re my post just before your last one.

jzk25 · Post by **jzk25** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 6:53 pm

Yes the fwd "fuse" becomes a diff lock fuse when used with a VTD TCU and box. Does the car have a TT box in it?

Ben · Post by **Ben** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 7:15 pm

jzk25 wrote:I'd be happy to part with my box etc. plus fitting advice if needed for less than your budget. I'd be happier if you bought my wifes TT wagon though.

No budget for TT wagons, no budgets for Foresters for a couple of months either...

We talking about the 4.44 VTD box right?

PM me a delivered price to Coffs Harbour (with an A/C compressor) and let me know inclusions and what else I need to get/fabricate.

Thanks

legacytt · Post by **legacytt** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 7:30 pm

Excellent, I suspect Fatz will be a happy boy, yes it has a TT box in it.

Suby Wan Kenobi · Post by **Suby Wan Kenobi** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 7:42 pm

I have had both autos in use in offroad conditions and found they both work pretty well. They where both used in my series one liberty wagon (the blue one i had) it came with the std NA auto box and all i did was add a load resistor to switch the duty C solonoid so i didnt get roused at by the auto . When i put the TT into it it had a CVt auto which worked a treat never once did i use the lock to get out of trouble. With using an EJ20NA i dont think which ever way you go will be the wrong way your onto a good combo either way, especially if you manually switch the lock up converter it should decend pretty well too.

Ben · Post by **Ben** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 8:39 pm

I still haven't figured out what sort of trans is in my liberty, but I can tell you, its a good un - and I certainly wouldn't have any issues putting this auto in an offroader (It's the VTD I want though, now I know they exist!!)

For example, the liberty on frosty grass - normally a bitch to take off on - it will spin one wheel about half a turn or less and then the trans will bind and the car takes off. Either front or rear would spin (which leads me to think it has this vtd thing) and then off we go...

Goes really well in low traction situations.

I drove Dave's lib on stockton and it was brilliant, He switched the auto to fwd in the car and dug into the sand, flicking to 4wd the car just drove straight out - was excellent!!

jzk25 · Post by **jzk25** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 10:14 pm

Your Lib won't have VTD but the late boxes are much better than early in the transfer department, both mechanically and electronically.

Outback bloke · Post by **Outback bloke** » Sun Jan 08, 2006 8:21 am

Synchros mostly, and you can keep your prying fingers off my low range gears

Ben, didn't realise you had an L box in there. I thought you fitted the AWD one when you got the motor from Jeff. I have got plenty of low range sets here now as it is. I do need a manual Lib box though.

Ben · Post by **Ben** » Sun Jan 08, 2006 9:04 am

BYB-01 wrote:
Synchros mostly, and you can keep your prying fingers off my low range gears
Ben, didn't realise you had an L box in there. I thought you fitted the AWD one when you got the motor from Jeff. I have got plenty of low range sets here now as it is. I do need a manual Lib box though.

Ahh, now I understand - no I made an adaptor and put the ej onto the L box.

That said, it looks like I'll get an auto into this wagon so I'll have an EJ to L box adaptor, and clutch and L box (or just the low gearset) up for sale later this year...

Subaman · Post by **Subaman** » Sun Jan 08, 2006 10:28 am

What exactly is the big attraction with auto's, especially you NA guys, auto's are HP robbers, friggen heavy, generate alot more heat, way more prone to problems, being Electronic is just another thing to worry about next time you attempt that bog hole or deep water crossing, they are harder to fit and wire and more expensive to service or repair than a manual, and worst of all you loose the "fun factor" thats an option with a manual. If its the 50/50 lock up and AWD thats the attraction for cars like Ben and Nathans then why not just use the AWD LS box with manual locking centre, if its the gearing then do the low range conversion to the manual, my EJ20T Lib running 28 inch tyres is doing 10km/h at 4000rpm in 1st low, and thats still running the 3.9 diffs, you would need a pretty high stall in an auto to match that, The EJ22 powered Brumby I am building will have the same set up only with 4.11 diffs and only 27inch tyres so thats even lower again. Has anyone ever explored the possibilities of developing a centre diff lock for the Liberty manual? I would like to see how these newer auto`s performed "offroad" because so far every Suby auto I have seen in an offroad situation, weather it be MY, LS, Liberty, turbo, Liberty TT has been out performed by its manual equivilant. Ask Dave G what he is driving now, manual or auto ? Dont get me wrong, because my Lib is an EJ20T I have considered the auto option myself a few times so these are legitimate questions, I also considered trying to shoehorn an auto into the Brumby, but that was before the low range conversion was sucsessfull, now the manual just seems the better option everytime I think about it..
Cheers
Grant

PeeJay · Post by **PeeJay** » Sun Jan 08, 2006 10:58 am

While we are on the subject of the low range conversions, do you have to start with a dual range lib box or just a standard single range?

Fatz · Post by **Fatz** » Sun Jan 08, 2006 11:17 am

Thanx Ian, Putting a fuse in the fwd holder most certainly DOES lock the centre diff. Finally after cutting and splices wrong wires, it could possibly be the most simple thing i have done yet

with the best outcome...
Thanx again.
Cheers
Adam

legacytt · Post by **legacytt** » Sun Jan 08, 2006 2:31 pm

Glad to hear it worked Adam, certainly a lot easier than the manual conversion you were planning and you still get the better hillclimbing ability. BTW you actually have a 4.44 rear diff to make your sig correct.

Outback bloke · Post by **Outback bloke** » Sun Jan 08, 2006 2:50 pm

Peejay, you need to start with a dual range box simply because all the other manual boxes don't have the allowance in the case for the extra gears needed.

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