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Hi all,

This is my 1st post. The gearbox in my 1994 L series wagon just packed-it-in; given that I just started my mid-year university break (thus I have a few spare weeks) and the high cost of my car-servicer replacing it I will attempt to do it myself.

I’ve done some work on my Subi before, but nothing this major. Undoubtedly some of you have replaced your gearbox before so it would be much appreciated if you could provide some advice.

Cheers

Silversubiowner

gady silversubiowner,this would be easier to do with the motor out,makes it easier to remove shafts from box but when installing shafts back on remember the holes the pins go thru need to be inline(they can be put back on 180 out causing you to be half a tooth out and the pin wont go thru)also wen buying your replacement box remember turbo and non turbo spindals are different sizes(turbo ones have bigger spindals),all in all its a pretty easy job...cheers justin

I agree with the tips regarding lining up the pins and the making sure u get a box with the right front driveshaft stub-axel size (either 23 or 25spline). However I strongly disagree with the method. There are two main different ways of changing an L series gearbox - engine in and engine out. Some people like one way, others like the other way. I find leaving the engine in MUCH easier - mostly because you don't have to remove the engine. This one drawback far outweighs the benefits it gains you.
The driveshafts are still very easy to swap from gearbox to gearbox with the engine in place.

Search around, there should be a quite a few write-ups of people changing gearboxes, I've probably written one myself.

Some tips off the top of my head tho;

- Unplugging the two front driveshafts from the gearbox is alot easier if you undo the bolts holding the shocks to the hub and disconnect them. This allows the hubs to "flop" down towards the outside of the car allowing the driveshafts to pull off the gearbox easily.
- If you undo the gearbox crossmembers and tilt the engine and gearbox down there should be plenty of room to slip the gearbox off the motor.
- Drain the oil fully before you start taking the old gearbox off (otherwise it will all come out the back once you take the tailshaft off).
- When sourcing your gearbox make sure you get one the same ratio as your old gearbox (either 3.9 or 3.7). You should have a little sticker on the back cover of the rear diff which says what it is. No problem to change to another ratio tho, you just need to swap the rear diff too. Rear diff must match the gearbox ratio.

Ive removed a few engines & transmissions a few times... if you dont have engine crane to remove the engine, best way is to remove gearbox from under the car (same as my picture below at that time as I removed the gearbox on my 1995 Liberty about 3 years ago) and do it back up again, I also have 500mm lift trolley jack with modified transmission tray on the jack to make the job easier.

Removal of the engine with gearbox attached is another job but more time consuming, and the amount of the time is close about the same as removing the box itself alone. For me, I'd remove the box from under the car.
Cheers
AP

silversubiowner wrote:Hi all,

This is my 1st post. The gearbox in my 1994 L series wagon just packed-it-in; given that I just started my mid-year university break (thus I have a few spare weeks) and the high cost of my car-servicer replacing it I will attempt to do it myself.

I’ve done some work on my Subi before, but nothing this major. Undoubtedly some of you have replaced your gearbox before so it would be much appreciated if you could provide some advice.

Cheers

Silversubiowner

How did you 'destroyed' the gearbox may i ask?
Cheers
AP

If you do have a crane you can use this to help lower the gearbox down. I've done both ways mentioned. The drop of the box will leave all the coolant in your engine so its something you don't have to replace.

Having the box off is a good time to change the clutch too. Get yourself a workshop manual if you haven't got one already, it will be helpful.

Cheers

Bennie

Cheers for the advice all!

In response to how the gearbox was 'destroyed': through normal wear and tear, it just started making a few noises and shortly afterwards it packed it in.

silversubiowner wrote:Cheers for the advice all!

In response to how the gearbox was 'destroyed': through normal wear and tear, it just started making a few noises and shortly afterwards it packed it in.

Ah okay, thought you blew it up... yeah another option is get 2nd hand gearbox and wack it back in or rebuild it but will cost you heaps (self rebuild can cost you approx $250-$350 just the bearings alone whereabout a rebuilder will be over a grand)..
Cheers
AP