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What models and years of Subaru's came with no stubs on the rear diff (driveshaft has the stub that slots into the diff)?
And are there open as well as VLSD models of this type of R160 diff?

Commonly referred to as "female" stub diffs.

yes there are open and lsd ones available (I know cause I used to have a 4.111 open diff from an Outback sitting in the shed once).
While that Outback diff was supposedly an R160 it was abit different inside to my early RS male-stub diffs, and my L series ones. Namely the main gearset was not interchangeable because it was physically a smaller diametre. This buggered up my plans for re-ratioing my 3.7 CLSD - ended up finding a 4.111 open diff from an automatic GX liberty and that did the trick. Not sure if the Outback one really was an R160, I assume it was but a slightly different variant or something. Definitely was not R180!

but I digest...

Unsure as to exactly which models have female stub diffs, except that it's later models (like 1999 up or thereabouts) rather than earlier.

you digest?

heh yes sorry, it's a rather lame Family Guy quote.

I digress.

Phizinza wrote:What models and years of Subaru's came with no stubs on the rear diff (driveshaft has the stub that slots into the diff)?
And are there open as well as VLSD models of this type of R160 diff?

in the US, all MY and L series came with the male stub diffs. once you get to the Legacy/Liberty models, only the early (91-94) Legacy Turbo came with the male stub diffs. all the other came with female stub diffs....

From what I found at the wreckers..
Gen 1 Liberty uses male stubs same as l series.
Gen 2 Liberty onwards uses female stubs.
Cheers
AP

Heres an interesting question... can EA rear driveshafts be adapted with newer driveshaft parts to fit these "female" stub diffs to older EA model subies?

I know someone who's fitted this type of diff to an L series, but abit of a different method. It was an interesting idea. He got a pair of male stubs from a L series diff, had a groove machined into them for the snap ring, and fitted them to a later model diff - effectively a sex change operation for the diff. Unfortunately something went wrong with it and it didn't work out, although it did work for a while - I'm sure it could be tried again with more success.

can u just slop over the all the inner CV over if the CV shaft .
If the CV drive shafe same have the same splines .

Phizinza wrote:Heres an interesting question... can EA rear driveshafts be adapted with newer driveshaft parts to fit these "female" stub diffs to older EA model subies?

I tried this with the forester diff i had tried to put into an my,i pulled the cv apart of both my and forester but the cups on the forester were to small for the my cv to go into and the spline on the two shafts were different so couldnt even just swap the insides over..early lib has the stubs and wrx which is what i have now (wrx 4.11 lsd)your cv's and tailshaft both fit onto early wrx but forester dif has a bigger flange for the tailshaft..

The first female diff was the VLSD in the Gen1 Ser1 Lib, they had stub axels held in by circlips, which allowed them to work with standard early type driveshafts.





Legacy Parts Catalog Rapidshare Link(64.8MB).



I have no idea whether they will fit later model female diffs though.
Daza.

Some of these diffs has an torx bolt in the stubs. So be aware.
Cheers
AP

Don't worry, I've got the E10 deep torx socket already.

Any further progress as to whether the later model diff fitted or not?

Dane wrote:Any further progress as to whether the later model diff fitted or not?

Pictures to come soon
cheers
AP

Dane wrote:Any further progress as to whether the later model diff fitted or not?

You should be able to as long its R160 diff..

the stubs looks like this -


Normally Ive noticed wreckers dont realise that stubs belongs to the diff where it can come out with CV joints - like in this pic above.

You can install LSD newer diff centre in your L series diff housing, but you will need to grind this off -

(if you grind upto the hole where the bearing retainer bolt hole is - that is ok no need to worry if you went too far but stop there once you see the hole appearing.)


Cheers
AP

agree with AP, '90 Leg with prod date of 5/89 ej swap donor had stub axles on diff

I have the same problem. Bought a Female R160 from Seagull with a Cusco centre. A solution is needed to make it fit into my Brumby. I hope I haven't wasted my bucks on this and have to find a male LSD.

Cheers

Chris

lovey80 wrote:I have the same problem. Bought a Female R160 from Seagull with a Cusco centre. A solution is needed to make it fit into my Brumby. I hope I haven't wasted my bucks on this and have to find a male LSD.

Cheers

Chris

Just a thought here Chris.. Could you find some of the CV shafts that go inside your new diff? Do you know what model the diff was out of?

I'm thinking that if you had the inner CV joints from the diff's shafts then removed them and tried them on your Brumby shaft.. then just maybe they might have the same internal spline?? or use a combination of inner race from the Brumby and the outer cup (inner CV joint) from the diff's shafts?

Paul

RSR 555 wrote:Just a thought here Chris.. Could you find some of the CV shafts that go inside your new diff? Do you know what model the diff was out of?

I'm thinking that if you had the inner CV joints from the diff's shafts then removed them and tried them on your Brumby shaft.. then just maybe they might have the same internal spline?? or use a combination of inner race from the Brumby and the outer cup (inner CV joint) from the diff's shafts?

Paul

Yeah, the problem is, shown picture above the i posted, there is a small spline part, without that it wont be "LSD" as it'll be treated as open diff. you need that part to get LSD to work.
Cheers
AP