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I've just had a couple of EJ22 heads reconditioned and bolted up, and am wondering what else I should do to the engine before dropping it into the car. Don't want to throw a stack of money at it, but would like to be confident it will be good for a while.

I'm already planning cam and crank seals, engine mounts, clutch bearings, filters and fluids. Water pump and timing kit are only 10,000km old, so I'll take my chances recycling them. Radiator and hoses are near new.

Is it worthwhile replacing the oil separator plate? I seem to recall there was a bit of oil seeping around it.

Are there any core plugs that might need replacement?

The outside of the sump looked a bit rough with surface rust and minor oil seepage. Take it off and fix, or is that just opening another can of worms?


Anything else?

Dane.

I'm building one now, I'm doing front main seals, Rear main seal, Intake gaskets, Rocker cover gaskets, Water pump, Plugs and leads, Timing belt and Pulley belts. Got my flywheel machined the other day, and getting a new clutch, also need to track down some thrust bearing retainer clips because one of mine is non existent and the other is half

The sump i was told you cant get a gasket for so you just have to use some gasket goo stuff

I'm also replacing the timing belt tensioner because mine is cracked, its turned out to be mad expensive $120 and thats with the sweet hook up.

Cheers,

Jake.

How old is the engine!! if its greater than 140k then throw a set of rings in it, its common for a subaru to do heads, then you do the heads up to find the bottom end is not too far off shagged 6 mths down the track. Its pretty cheap for bearings, rigs and gaskets if your handy with a spanner, from memory the last one i rebuilt was about 500 in parts and labour was by yours truly. Budget 150 for rings, 100 for mains, 70-90 for big ends and if they dont include thrusts(cant remember) about 20 bux for them, 270ish for a vrs set if you dont have one already too. Dont buy parts from repco before you get prices from your engine machine shop as these guys get uber good buy prices and generally pass it on to the customer, you can save big bux there. Good luck

hi god,
What type of prices did you get when getting the parts and the heads recond and where did you get them etc. I have an engine here that i want to do up, its got good comp but has a blown head gasket.

thx

ORX-18 wrote:How old is the engine!! if its greater than 140k then throw a set of rings in it, its common for a subaru to do heads, then you do the heads up to find the bottom end is not too far off shagged 6 mths down the track. Its pretty cheap for bearings, rigs and gaskets if your handy with a spanner, from memory the last one i rebuilt was about 500 in parts and labour was by yours truly. Budget 150 for rings, 100 for mains, 70-90 for big ends and if they dont include thrusts(cant remember) about 20 bux for them, 270ish for a vrs set if you dont have one already too. Dont buy parts from repco before you get prices from your engine machine shop as these guys get uber good buy prices and generally pass it on to the customer, you can save big bux there. Good luck

It's early 90s, but the bores look ok and the previous owner tells me it didn't use oil, so I'll take my chances with the bottom end. There's also the fact that I've never done bottom end work, and don't want to learn on what is currently my only car.

guyph_01 wrote:hi god,
What type of prices did you get when getting the parts and the heads recond and where did you get them etc. I have an engine here that i want to do up, its got good comp but has a blown head gasket.

thx

I haven't yet seen the bill from the head shop, but this is what I was told over the phone:
2nd hand head $150 (one of mine was beyond repair)
clean $100
pressure test $160
service $300
welding $100
clean and fit $315

All of which somehow added up to $987. I supplied all parts except that one head, and I'll be enquiring about that $300 service before I pay for it.

The work was done by High Flow Cylinder Heads in Balcatta. Seem like decent blokes, but I'll reserve final judgment until I get there to see what they've done and pay for it.

It might pay to shop around to a few of your favourite parts suppliers and get prices on off-the-shelf exchange heads. Then take your heads to a head shop, get them tested, and see which option will be best for you. Or you can just whack the same heads back on with new gaskets and cross your fingers.

My prices on parts will probably be different to what you can get. I know people in the right places . Repco put huge margins on anything to suit Subaru, so try to haggle them down. Veales have been pretty good when I've dealt with them ($62 for a water pump), and it's always worth asking Subaru about genuine.

Dane.

always bang in a new set of big ends on a motor when you have it out anyway especially if it has a few ks up. worn mains and rings you can get by with for ages with no real problems, but drop a big end bearing and you are (1) stuck and (2) up for a new motor, and bearing shells are cheap. Odin autos don't do a bad price. gaskets can always be made up, I don't remember the last time I bought a plain gasket.

Im a bit curious what was the welding for id be worried if it was for the head!

would have been to fix hairline cracks I'd say.

Ok, it's all back together and in, but it's making some evil lifter type noise, even after a few minutes running. I noticed before putting the rocker covers on that the rockers were easily pushed down a few mm by hand. How long should it take them to settle in?

Dane.

The usual thing to do during assembly is to manually fill them with oil before installing them... So it could take a while, changing to a thinner oil might help.

Cheers

Bennie

The heads were put together by an expert, so I assume he did that, but it's been sitting for a couple of weeks now. It's got a belly full of fresh Penrite 10W-50. Might go and fire her up again and see what happes.

Dane.

My sister's L has its oil pump seals done and a new set of head gaskets. After reassembly and fire up it sounded like a diesel due to air in the system. It took a 3000km trip from melb to Port Douglas for it to go quiet! Try and get the engine hot as this will thin out the oil. If you haven't driven the subi since its rebuild I'd say you should check the oil level and take it for a drive to see what happens as the pressures and mechanical react differently under load in a way.

Cheers

Bennie