Timing Belt Change

[Jock]

Gday

I just joined the site, I drive a Landy myself but my mum has always owned Subies.

At the moment she has a 1990 Legacy 4WD Wagon and it's due for a timing belt.

I went into Bursons the other day and they specify a kit with belt, pulleys etc

I imagine it's a good idea to do the lot every 100,000 or they wouldn't suggest changing it all (pulleys etc) ?

Also I have a mate with a 1999 Liberty Sedan with 200,000. He's a tight ass and only wants to change the belt, should I be trying to convince him otherwise?

Thanks

[TOONGA]

Jock welcome to the board

I believe it is best to use a complete kit when you do a timing belt and as well change the water pump, inspect the oil pump and every seal and bolt on the front of the motor.

your friend really needs to look at the big picture save a small amout of cash only to have the motor fail completely or do the job properly and get another 200000 km out of the motor

TOONGA

[FROG]

You can get away with tensioner and idlers at 100 000 klm (unless there is something obvious)
But definately change them every 200 000 klm or yes it will end in tears belt kits are cheap enough these days just think of it as insurance

[phillatdarwin]

i fix them all the time and replace the lot in one go as that way it not come back and bit u
and if the rollers have got the plastic cover care fully remove it and pack some more grease in there as well and it will out last the engine then as the grease that pack with over time it not stick to the balls in the bearing and gos hard ..

[fredsub]

the tensioner is very very expensive to replace though.for what it is
I reckon if you can release the tensioner and then re-tension it, and the seal on it looks good, its as good as a new one. It should be obvious if it is a failed part, so needlessly replacing it?:rolleyes:

Cam Seals are a good thing to replace while your there.

[Jock]

Thanks for the heads up fellas

I'll go the whole kit and have a look at the tensioner when I get there

Thanks again

[AlpineRaven]

replace the bearings for monies worth. I was being a tight arse as well a few years back and just changed the timing belt, a month later the bearing went and had to buy just one bearing which costed me more than timing belt kit!!!!

So your better off buying timing belt kit and just replace whole lot for next 100,000kms.
Cheers
AP

[Jock]

All good got it all changed and a 100,000km service done as well.

The check engine light came on a k down the road then went off a bit later

It was running fine, not overheating or making funny noises. So I'll put that one down to washing it with the steam cleaner at work when I finished

[AndrewT]

Yeah could have been. Spend 5 seconds and read the codes to find out exactly what it was

Funnily enough I just did a timing belt today, I did the pulleys too - bought a Dayco kit.

[Jock]

How do I do that?

[AndrewT]

ah, under your steering column (behind the plastic cover) you should see a pair of electrical connectors that look like they should be plugged together but aren't. Black in colour. Plug them together then turn your ignition key to ON (without starting the engine). The check engine light should start flashing. The engine codes are in double digits. The first digit comes up as a long flash, then the second as shorts. Ie - Code 33 would be three long then three short, code 24 would be two long then four short. Then it goes on to the next code if there are more than one, then it will repeat them again over and over.

Here is a list of what the codes mean;
Trouble Code Item Contents of Diagnosis Fail-Safe Operation Non-Turbo Turbo
11 crank angle sensor No signal entered from crank angle sensor, but signal (corresponding to at least one rotation of the crank) entered from cam angle sensor none X X
12 starter switch Abnormal signal emitted from starter switch Turns starter signal switch OFF X X
13 cam angle sensor No signal entered from cam angle sensor, but signal (corresponding to at least two rotations of cam) entered from crank angle sensor none X X
14 Injector #1 Fuel injector inoperative (Abnormal signal emitted from monitor circuit) none X X
15 Injector #2 Fuel injector inoperative (Abnormal signal emitted from monitor circuit) none X X
16 Injector #3 Fuel injector inoperative (Abnormal signal emitted from monitor circuit) none X X
17 Injector #4 Fuel injector inoperative (Abnormal signal emitted from monitor circuit) none X X
21 Water temperature sensor Abnormal signal emitted from water temperature sensor Adjusts water to a specific temperature, maintains radiator fan "ON" to prevent overheating X X
22 Knock sensor Abnormal voltage produced in knock sensor monitor circuit Sets in regular fuel map and retards ignition timing X X
23 Air flow sensor Abnormal voltage input entered from air flow sensor Controls the amount of fuel (injected) in relation to engine speed and throttle sensor position X X
24 Air control valve Air control valve inoperative (Abnormal signal produced in monitor circuit) Prevents abnormal engine speed using "fuel cut" in relation to engine speed, vehicle speed, and throttle sensor position X X
31 Throttle sensor Abnormal voltage input entered from throttle sensor Sets throttle sensor's voltage output to a fixed value X X
32 Oxygen sensor Oxygen sensor inoperative none X X
33 Vehicle speed sensor Abnormal voltage input entered from vehicle speed sensor Sets vehicle speed signal to a fixed value X X
35 Canister purge solenoid valve Solenoid valve inoperative none X X
41 A/F learning control Faulty learning control function none X X
42 Idle switch Abnormal voltage input entered from idle switch Judges OFF operation X X
44 Duty solenoid valve(Wastegate control) Duty solenoid valve inoperative none X
45 Atmospheric pressure sensor Faulty sensor Sets sensor to 760 mmHg X
45 Pressure sensor and pressure exchange solenoid valve Faulty sensor or pressure exchange solenoid valve inoperative Prevents abnormal supercharging pressure using "fuel cut" in relation to engine load X
49 Air flow sensor Use of improper air flow sensor none X X
51 Neutral switch Abnormal signal entered from neutral switch none X X
51 Inhibitor switch Abnormal signal entered from inhibitor switch none X X
52 Parking switch Abnormal signal entered from parking switch none X X



There are also a pair of green connectors which don't apply in this scenario, but these put the ECU into test mode and you will hear lots of clicks and buzzes when you turn ignition on as it goes around the engine bay turning all the solenoids and thermo fans on/off etc.

[Jock]

Found them after a bit, 2 long then 2 short

So :

22 Knock sensor Abnormal voltage produced in knock sensor monitor circuit Sets in regular fuel map and retards ignition timing X X

?

[Jock]

While on the subject of timing belts

I have to do one in an EJ20, I had it all apart then found that the seals were leaking so I had to put it all back together

How do you realease the initial tension on the belt?

On an EJ22 you release the two bolts and the tensioner slides back on the slots