EA82, snapped crank pulley bolt...

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Bodge
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EA82, snapped crank pulley bolt...

Post by Bodge » Mon Dec 19, 2011 5:08 pm

Soooo,
I have managed to snap the crank pulley bolt in my L series (EA82T).
Is this engine now history?
Anybody heard of anyone successfully pulling a snapped bolt out of a crankshaft?
Not expecting this to go well at all.
sigh
Is it feasible to split the crankcase to replace the crank without pulling off the heads and associated gasket kit/head service costs?
I do have a spare motor which I bought as a "good runner" and will install with fingers crossed. Didn't really trust the guy on his word or knowledge. Especially as he had bought it thinking it would wrx up his impreza. lol
If this engine isn't any good there may soon be a reasonable collection of RX turbo and L series parts up for sale.
Cheers,

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revmax
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Post by revmax » Mon Dec 19, 2011 5:11 pm

Did it break as it was being undone, if so do you believe the bolt has rusted in position.

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"THE BRUMBY ! , Your not taking the Brumby I just dry cleaned the mud flaps."
Current
00 Outback with class, SOHC EJ25 auto 240,068ks
"B1" 90 Brumby with character 271,800K EA81 (But soon 5speed,103,000k EJ202)
"B2" wrecked and crushed
"B3" 89 Bush Bashing Brumby (BeeRumBee) Kept a Bucca
"B4" 89 Black Brumby (wam balam ) Kept at Kempsey
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Bodge
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Post by Bodge » Mon Dec 19, 2011 5:23 pm

Dibs it is! :)
The pulley came loose on the way home, (yeah, weird), so I backed off the alternator to loosen the belts and tightened the pulley back up.
Not properly though it seems, the pulley was not fully tight even though the bolt was. Drove the 500m home and noticed then that it wasn't tight enough and I couldn't tighten it further so I tried to remove it and snapped the ba$74rd.
Must have had a bit of rubbish in the thread when I refitted it on the side of the road?
Can't believe that I have probably just killed an EA82T with 100 thou on the clock since a nice rebuild, new timing belts etc in the last couple of thousand k's. Really was a strong motor.

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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Mon Dec 19, 2011 5:54 pm

Don't give up Bodge!

If you're really keen on this engine you can drill a hole down the remainder of the bolt and then use the easy-out to get it out.

Then clean up the thread with an appropriate die and install a new bolt.

She should be apples after that ;)

Cheers

Bennie
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Bodge
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Post by Bodge » Mon Dec 19, 2011 6:00 pm

I hope so Bennie!
Not sure an easyout will work though, it is a pretty large bolt to snap. I have used them before but not sure it will have the grip/strength to pull this bolt.
Might let an expert have a shot at that job. I've snapped an easyout before.
Bloody passion-fingers... seems I am forever snapping things. You'd think I'd learn.

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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Mon Dec 19, 2011 6:03 pm

Try out the square style easy outs - my brother's just finished using them successfully on his truck ;)

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Post by d_generate » Mon Dec 19, 2011 6:31 pm

Maybe once you've drilled the hole spray some of that stuff that freezes instantly in the hole before you put the easy-out in to shrink the bolt first..............might help.
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Post by FROG » Mon Dec 19, 2011 6:33 pm

revmax wrote:
bags first option on the rear disc brakes.
Bodge wrote:Dibs it is! :)
Can't believe that I have probably just killed an EA82T with 100 thou on the clock since a nice rebuild, new timing belts etc in the last couple of thousand k's. Really was a strong motor.
eff me , the vultures are circling
El_Freddo wrote:Don't give up Bodge!

If you're really keen on this engine you can drill a hole down the remainder of the bolt and then use the easy-out to get it out.

Then clean up the thread with an appropriate die and install a new bolt.

She should be apples after that ;)

Cheers

Bennie
try this first Bodge
if its only just had its belts done and been rebuilt -100k ago then you really need to fix this
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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Mon Dec 19, 2011 6:45 pm

Bodge wrote:Is it feasible to split the crankcase to replace the crank without pulling off the heads and associated gasket kit/head service costs?
I forgot to add that you need to remove the heads to split the block... Sorry for the bad news on that one.

Go the easy out!!

Cheers

Bennie
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Bodge
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Post by Bodge » Mon Dec 19, 2011 7:25 pm

Thanks guys!
Too right about the cold spray, I'd forgotten about that. Would the first aid stuff for burn treatment do the trick?
I only sounded so dejected before as recently the optical crank angle sensor went in the dizzy and I only just got it running again on friday. (BIG thanks to vhr32 for posting that from Tassie!) They are HARD to find. Then today I do this? Been a bad couple of months and that topped it off nicely, merry christmas and all that! :rolleyes:
I'll get it going again, can't let an old school scoob die over a broken bolt. And I gotta admit, the old girl really is a joy to drive. Doesn't look like much but so much better to drive than my Liberty. The Lib looks nicer and is more comfortable and goes harder, but the L somehow is easier to drive? Does manage to embarrass young blokes in dunnydores as well. ;) No matter what the haters think, the EA82T really is a sweet motor for an L. Not a sensible conversion maybe, but it is a good combo.

Thanks for the support and advice.

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Bodge
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Post by Bodge » Mon Dec 19, 2011 7:35 pm

Just had a thought, we have some left hand threaded rod at work.
In the past I have needed a tap to cut or clean threads and have heat treated a bolt after cutting grooves through the thread. Making a rudimentary but functional tap.
I could make a left hand thread tap from a length of it. Drill the bolt to suit the tap then use some of the left hand thread rod to screw out the bolt?
Sounds suitably Bodgy to me ;) Save me buying another expensive rarely used tool. I reckon it would be less likely to snap than a hardened easyout too. Especially with my new passion fingers title...
Surely it is worth a try?
Any thoughts?

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revmax
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Post by revmax » Mon Dec 19, 2011 7:41 pm

The bolt is not vey long nore is it hi tensile so you should be able to get it out easier than you think.
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"THE BRUMBY ! , Your not taking the Brumby I just dry cleaned the mud flaps."
Current
00 Outback with class, SOHC EJ25 auto 240,068ks
"B1" 90 Brumby with character 271,800K EA81 (But soon 5speed,103,000k EJ202)
"B2" wrecked and crushed
"B3" 89 Bush Bashing Brumby (BeeRumBee) Kept a Bucca
"B4" 89 Black Brumby (wam balam ) Kept at Kempsey
"B5" 92 Brumby (sold it)
"B6" 88 Beige Brumby
"W1" 83 wagon 308,000 AC and alot of rust repairs. (Wanda)
Brumby Trailer (Sulky)
LUV THAT BRUM !
RevMax Hobbies

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

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Bodge
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Post by Bodge » Mon Dec 19, 2011 7:49 pm

Thanks for the pic, I still have about 10 threads left on my half of the bolt so shouldn't be too much left in there.
Checking it out, the left hand thread rod we have at work isn't any smaller than the bolt so can't use it unfortunately. The bolt shop might be the trick though.
Mind you, we probably have some easyouts at work somewhere. Must look.
Again, thanks everyone.

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sven '2'
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Post by sven '2' » Mon Dec 19, 2011 9:11 pm

El_Freddo wrote:Don't give up Bodge!

If you're really keen on this engine you can drill a hole down the remainder of the bolt and then use the easy-out to get it out.

Then clean up the thread with an appropriate die and install a new bolt.

She should be apples after that ;)

Cheers

Bennie
Do this ^^^

If you are not sure, (in Adel) at least there are mobile guys that make a living out attending sheds, carports, garages to repair threads on all sorts of home mechanical work gone wrong..

Was a while ago, but last time it cost me $80 for an onsite service. Was a prick of a job, with little room for error - hence why I went the expert route.

Money well spent, esp if it keeps an EA82T on the road.
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Post by steptoe » Mon Dec 19, 2011 10:16 pm

yeaah, go the mobile guys who manage to work wonders for the price of a coupla cartons of plain beer.

Feel your pain

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coupe
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good luck

Post by coupe » Mon Dec 19, 2011 10:31 pm

I once got a snapped bolt out of a coma whore by welding a bolt to the remains with a arc welder. the welding super heated the bolt and loosened it enough to remove.
I used a eazy out on a cast iron race head bloody thing snapped off and i had to bin the head.
Cheers Pete
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subybrumby
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Post by subybrumby » Tue Dec 20, 2011 5:37 pm

I would go the drill and easy out. You can get a right angle drill to get in those tough places. Centre punch it carefully....just a sharp tap. Secret is to take your time and think it through. good luck with it.
1989 Subaru Brumby - EA82T 5speed box. 4wheel disc, electric Windows plus other goodies.
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Cliff R
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Post by Cliff R » Tue Dec 20, 2011 8:15 pm

From memory Loctite have the freezing spray called "Freeze ya nuts off" Loctite rep swore by it.

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revmax
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Post by revmax » Tue Dec 20, 2011 8:39 pm

cliff r wrote:from memory loctite have the freezing spray called "freeze ya nuts off" loctite rep swore by it.
rofl
"THE BRUMBY ! , Your not taking the Brumby I just dry cleaned the mud flaps."
Current
00 Outback with class, SOHC EJ25 auto 240,068ks
"B1" 90 Brumby with character 271,800K EA81 (But soon 5speed,103,000k EJ202)
"B2" wrecked and crushed
"B3" 89 Bush Bashing Brumby (BeeRumBee) Kept a Bucca
"B4" 89 Black Brumby (wam balam ) Kept at Kempsey
"B5" 92 Brumby (sold it)
"B6" 88 Beige Brumby
"W1" 83 wagon 308,000 AC and alot of rust repairs. (Wanda)
Brumby Trailer (Sulky)
LUV THAT BRUM !
RevMax Hobbies

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

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Bodge
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Post by Bodge » Tue Dec 20, 2011 8:48 pm

I'll bet it will be near aerostart's competitor - Start Ya Bastard.

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