Some EJ22 motors are available at a wrecking yard...

Get the most out of your Engine / Gearbox with these handy hints ...
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2nd Hand Yank
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Post by 2nd Hand Yank » Thu Apr 12, 2012 5:02 pm

Alex wrote:Jap spec has abit more go than a aussie 20g :-) oh and 18psi.

Back on topic. I'd go for a Gen1 Ej22 1989-1993 model. Very strong motor and more than enough poke, enough to belt a v6 commodore off the road.

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That turbo one sounds fun. :)
For myself I think I prefer a naturally-aspirated engine though.
I've heard that the turbo subarus tend to have poor fuel economy...
mostly I just don't want very short distance-to-empties.

My EA82 L Series got belted by a 2008 Toyota Corolla on a flat road, and I'm not even sure the owner was trying. :p

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2nd Hand Yank
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Post by 2nd Hand Yank » Thu Apr 12, 2012 5:19 pm

The reason I think I want an EJ22 over an EJ20 is

for things like driving through deep sand. Both my EA82 L Series and Taza's EJ20 Foz detonate like a SOB on 91 octane, accelerating from a stop in soft sand. Both engines in their respective bodies sounded to struggle equally off idle. I understand that Taza's EJ20 if it was put in my L Series should still be better than my EA82, due to vehicle weight differences, but it seems like the smarter way would be try to eliminate detonation under "normal" offroad conditions by getting a motor with more low-end torque.

Would an EJ22 be much better at this,
or is there not much difference below 1500 rpm?

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Alex
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Post by Alex » Thu Apr 12, 2012 5:48 pm

theres nothing wrong with a n/a ej20.

my liberty is powered by a n/a 2.0l and it has a suprising amount of power. She up over 200,000km on the clock now and feels as strong as she did when i bought the car with 50,000km on it.

Honestly, my gen3 outback running an ej25, compared to my gen3 liberty running ej20, there isnt much difference at all (but i do have a few very minor mods done to the ej20 liberty to help her abit)

i found in my l-sereis that an EJ22 ran very well and gave its a pretty nice power to weight ratio, it wasnt rediculously powerful, but it wasnt rediculously slow like the ea82.

as another side note, my when my l-series was EJ20G powered, it used less fuel than with the EJ22. When driven in vacuum an 20G is pretty economical.

alex
my07 Outback
my13 Hyundai i45(shhhh)
my02 Gen3 Liberty limited ed.

previously
L-series wagon, LSD, EJ20turbo, 29in tyres, 'wanky wagon'
2000 gen3 outback, lifted, otherwise stock.

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GOD
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Post by GOD » Thu Apr 12, 2012 6:08 pm

2nd Hand Yank wrote: or is there not much difference below 1500 rpm?
There is not much difference between the alternatives in most of decisions you agonise over.

Go for a 1997 or earlier EJ22 because they are easy to get parts and info for, and by far the easiest to do harness chops on.

Dane.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
1993 EA82/EJ18/EJ22/EJ22/EJ20/EJ22 L Series perpetual project

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MTB92
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Post by MTB92 » Thu Apr 12, 2012 7:01 pm

2nd Hand Yank wrote:The reason I think I want an EJ22 over an EJ20 is

for things like driving through deep sand. Both my EA82 L Series and Taza's EJ20 Foz detonate like a SOB on 91 octane, accelerating from a stop in soft sand. Both engines in their respective bodies sounded to struggle equally off idle. I understand that Taza's EJ20 if it was put in my L Series should still be better than my EA82, due to vehicle weight differences, but it seems like the smarter way would be try to eliminate detonation under "normal" offroad conditions by getting a motor with more low-end torque.

Would an EJ22 be much better at this,
or is there not much difference below 1500 rpm?
well then do it!
an EA is gutless, and Taza's Forri is commonly known as 'stuffed' (even he admits this). the differences are not that big between the 2L and 2.2L, they both pull hard. If you are having trouble with the power of an EJ20 in an L series either that motor is knackered or you and your many passengers need to loose some weight. it really is not worth agonising over!
Alex wrote:theres nothing wrong with a n/a ej20.

i found in my l-sereis that an EJ22 ran very well and gave its a pretty nice power to weight ratio, it wasnt rediculously powerful, but it wasnt rediculously slow like the ea82.

as another side note, my when my l-series was EJ20G powered, it used less fuel than with the EJ22. When driven in vacuum an 20G is pretty economical.

alex
same for me, it is as fast as you will ever want to go in a fwd. it is not stupid power, STI's will still beat you as you would expect for a 20yr old wagon, but it will hold its own in any 'normal' driving. (read leave rubber on the road when ever you desire...)

and 2nd hand, most people with turbo subies will not be driving like my grandma in an old impreza. you have to compare apples with apples to make comparisons.

(alex, yours was the ej20t i was reffering to before :p i have heard the stories and really wish i could have seen it running! :twisted:)

GOD wrote: Go for a 1997 or earlier EJ22 because they are easy to get parts and info for, and by far the easiest to do harness chops on.

Dane.
exactly what i said. easiest, and most likely cheapest and very strong motor.
GOD wrote:There is not much difference between the alternatives in most of decisions you agonise over.

Dane.
so its not just me? :rolleyes:

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taza
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Post by taza » Thu Apr 12, 2012 11:33 pm

As said my EJ20 is in need of work and a stock one (Ive driven a few SF Foz's with the EJ20 both auto and manual) has good power to weight ratio. Not turbo quick but for a 4 cyilnder certianly enough power.
Funnily enough though when coming back on the highway with a mate in his EJ25 OB (which is running like a dog atm) I pulled away hard in 5th gear(foot flat in both his and my car) when we came up side by side on an overtaking lane. lol

Today after driving back to Perth from Home sorted out some of my engine issues and it is running 25% better and when on octane 95-98 makes a very noticable difference than 91 too(both economy and power). Either engine would be sufficient as said in an L-series.
Note you also have to factor in tyres size, diff ratios, tyre weight, AWD vs FWD which allows much more slip and a faster take off, etc.. when comparing a Foz or the likes to an L-Series.
I find that my L with its EA82 yet 13" rims goes alright for what it is but with bigger rims and tyres would be pretty gutless!

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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Fri Apr 13, 2012 12:43 am

GOD wrote:There is not much difference between the alternatives in most of decisions you agonise over.
MTB92 wrote:so its not just me? :rolleyes:
Nope. As the saying goes, you can lead a horse to water but you can't make it drink.

I'll be sharing my next reply when 2HY announces his decision as I've not got any other useful info to share at the moment.

As it stands:

- ANY EJ engine in good working order will be a positive upgrade over the EA82
- EJ20, EJ22 or EJ25 - it all depends on how much you want to pay for parts, newer engines usually cost more but are *maybe* more powerful and efficient.
- my "seat of the pants" dyno says the EJ produces plenty of power and torque. The gauge also goes :mrgreen: everytime. I'm sure it will be the same for you 2HY.

One thing that hasn't been mentioned, or I've missed is: Don't go for the EJ18, GOD will tell you more about that if you ask nicely but keep on track at the same time - maybe PM him would be a better idea...

Find a good unit, commit and then follow through with the conversion. It's usually the following through bit that some people have trouble with, well, they used to anyway.

Cheers

Bennie
"The lounge room is not a workshop..."
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2nd Hand Yank
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Post by 2nd Hand Yank » Sat Apr 14, 2012 9:04 am

Alex wrote:i found in my l-sereis that an EJ22 ran very well and g
as another side note, my when my l-series was EJ20G powered, it used less fuel than with the EJ22. When driven in vacuum an 20G is pretty economical.

alex
Very nice.

I'm not worried about pinching-pennies. ;)
I just find the L Series distance-to-empty to be a bit annoying.
I don't want an even shorter distance to empty.
Saving money on fuel would just be a perk to having a higher DTE.

I think the poor economy I heard of might have been an EA82T...not EJ turbo
plus the driver not driving like a grandma. :p

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sven '2'
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Post by sven '2' » Mon Apr 16, 2012 7:19 pm

2nd Hand Yank wrote: My EA82 L Series got belted by a 2008 Toyota Corolla on a flat road, and I'm not even sure the owner was trying. :p
Of course it did.

In the red corner: 1915 technology (carby) in a 20+ year old with 300K+ kms

versus

In the silver corner: 21st century technology (EFI and maybe even VTT) in a 4 year old car.
73 Yamaha DT3 250

08 Ford BF wagon - LPG FTMFW

14 Toyota Kluger - goodness!

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taza
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Post by taza » Mon Apr 16, 2012 8:03 pm

^ Lol my foz would be flogged by almost anything too. I drive it flat out everywhere pretty much. Flat out 2nd gear through corners and lights. Never goes over 11l per 100km around town though even though after every gear change my foot is usually planeted to the floor.

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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Mon Apr 16, 2012 9:04 pm

sven '2' wrote:In the red corner: 1915 technology (carby) in a 20+ year old with 300K+ kms

versus

In the silver corner: 21st century technology (EFI and maybe even VTT) in a 4 year old car.
Gold star for you sir!

Well said!

Cheers

Bennie
"The lounge room is not a workshop..."
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sven '2'
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Post by sven '2' » Mon Apr 16, 2012 10:09 pm

2HY...is this project, be it

1. Keeping the EA82 and fix the timing belts,

or

2. A EJ swap

that you intend to undertake yourself?

Oh, and if you opt for (1) above, in addition to Bennie's shopping list, you will also need a cap to wear when you pull the timing covers - mine were filled with sand, oil and an amazing amt of crud
73 Yamaha DT3 250

08 Ford BF wagon - LPG FTMFW

14 Toyota Kluger - goodness!

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