EA81 Oil Pump Removal

Get the most out of your Engine / Gearbox with these handy hints ...
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Rodeo4jake
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Joined: Fri Oct 19, 2012 5:42 am
Location: Tylden Victoria

Post by Rodeo4jake » Mon Dec 02, 2013 4:57 pm

Couldn't get a new one anywhere, so I've got a 2nd hand one coming from Subabits. At least I'll have that & a spare in the blue parts car if I need it.
Now just to get the broken one out, gotta forget about it till next weekend cos I'm away in the truck till then.

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Rodeo4jake
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Posts: 297
Joined: Fri Oct 19, 2012 5:42 am
Location: Tylden Victoria

Post by Rodeo4jake » Sat Dec 07, 2013 8:05 pm

Ok, I got home this morning & got stuck into this. I took off the starter motor & jammed the flywheel with a big screwdriver, then after a bit of loctite freeze & release spray the bolt on the crankshaft pulley came off. Now it was down to the business of getting the rest of the oil pump out of the block. Which without the pulley in the way only took about ten minutes of careful levering around the edges.
Turns out the last person to work in this area had used some sort of sealnt to glue the pump into the block. Probably trying to stop the leak without buying the o rings & gasket.
Anyway jobs right now it's all back together & sorted now.

Cheers Jake

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tony
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Location: wa

Post by tony » Sat Dec 07, 2013 11:53 pm

never a good idea to grease nuts/bolts like wheel nuts or head bolts, they normally run in dry situation. Greasing them makes the torquing a lot different and leads to stretching or overtightening thus breaking the bolt or stud. the engineering recommendation is generally that if the bolt normally runs in oil, for instance rocker arm bolts/nuts, it's ok to lubricate to torque specs, if it normally runs dry, ie wheel nuts, don't lubricate.although head studs are often surrounded by oil, like under the rocker cover, the threads are normally dry. you will notice that if you do lubricate wheel nut it goes on a lot further.

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