Well... $550Silverbullet wrote:Oooooooooooh me likey that one piece tail shaft! how much did it cost ya?
if I am going to be honest. It was a business that serviced the mines, the other one in town I rang said they couldn't do it with all the work they had from mining companies. (things in the mining sector are meant to be slow??) I mean I know I paid too much in comparison to what others have paid but it looks like they did a good job. As long as it's centered and balanced I don't mind paying extra for a job to be done correctly. I was expecting around $300... but it wasn't to be. (Ohh, and I love this car - no expense spared for my baby!)Yeah, it's not totally their fault. They didn't order the pistons as I had asked so I got a little annoyed and did it myself. They were always promising to ring me but never did which just annoys me. I value honesty and I just don't trust them. To be fair the work they did looks top notch but only time will tell.4 months is a ridiculous waiting timeDon't care how busy they are that is unacceptable IMO. Obviously don't know much about Subarus if they put the gear on backwards, and telling you they checked the end float like that...something smells fishy here.
L series and EA82 are swear words at my house.steptoe wrote:Turn the flywheels over to make sure it is the same at the back. EA82 and EA81 flywheels differ on the other side.
The difference between EA82 225mm flywheel and EA81 225mm flywheel is in the step, one is 21mm, the other 23mm - make sure whatever way you go the step of the flywheel matches the step of the clutch
As for crank holes between EA81 and 2 - dunno yet !
I spacered my starter out with a simple cut out of 1.6mm aluminium sheet from memory
It's a flywheel off a late model Brumby. I have been to the clutch shop to ask about getting a clutch kit. He seemed very knowledgeable and he said there is only two clutches for the Brumby/L-Series. The 8" and 8 3/4" - the splines, pressure plates etc are the same. So I'm not understanding the 1.5mm machining off the face and what it achieves - is it just so you don't have to space out the starter, or is it to get the correct clamping pressure on the clutch? I mean I am happy to get it done but I just don't understand what I am achieving. I like to create the illusion that I have some idea when I go to the shop... So I use the MY mounting system including the cushion rubbers onto the MY cross member to get the gearbox in?Pommiebrat wrote:1. You will have to adapt the mounts from your old MY box in order to mount the L-series box. If you have alook you will see that lengtheneing the mounting holes on each bracket so they become slots allows them to fit. You will also have to make the holes in the gearbox cross-member into slots as well. Its a lot easier than it sounds and all bolts up fine.
I'm so going to steal this idea when I get around to a 5 speed swap. Looks pretty simple!555Ron wrote:
Does anyone know if it is that simple to use the MY lever. (looks like MY and L levers have been welded together?) I have never seen one converted to keep the existing lever. Would be nice to be able to get 4wd going straight away...
True, but if you're going to do this you do it properly! If you're really worried there's always the trick of sleeving the shaft so there's three weld points on it = more strength and that piece of mind for those that need it.steptoe wrote:The KISS theory I applied was keep the L levers for 1-5 and R and hi / lo on the box, cut the floor hole a little larger to suit, and used L series console inside - no lever cut and weld - corr, imagine the dodgy weld breaking loose on ya !
555Ron wrote:
Took it back a little further then required and cleaned it up... Painted Gen 1 Liberty white looks really nice!
you will need to drill that plate off and then bolt it back on once the rack is in place.555Ron wrote:
This is as close as I can get to getting the P/S rack into position. Anyone know if you have to take the steering stem off to get it into the engine cross member?
It can be removed and the PS rack slid in without issue, so it's not the only way to do it555Ron wrote:The stem for the manual racks unbolts but the power steering stem is integral to the rack. I would think the Toonga method is the only way for power steering setups.
That's about it. Manual steering engine crossmember spot welded, power steering engine crossmember bolted on.steptoe wrote:Oh, maybe there is a difference in the engine cross member - with the PS ones not got that brace spot welded like a man steering one?
Touring wagons have a bash plate from factory, its bolted on to that "jacking plate" (as the newer subaru owners call it) that's bolted onto the engine crossmember.555Ron wrote:Seems likely. The spot welded brace is for the bash plate to bolt onto, so perhaps the touring wagons don't come with a bash plate? I will have to have a look under mine...
So my Brumby will be standard ride height - which makes the fatter L series box a little tight in the transmission tunnel I believe. Does anyone know if I should lengthen both MY mounting plate holes equally or can I use the use the top hole and lengthen the bottom to get the box sitting lower.1. You will have to adapt the mounts from your old MY box in order to mount the L-series box. If you have alook you will see that lengtheneing the mounting holes on each bracket so they become slots allows them to fit. You will also have to make the holes in the gearbox cross-member into slots as well. Its a lot easier than it sounds and all bolts up fine.
Is this correct? I can't see a bolt doing nothing that looks like it should be removed. I may have to get some photos...?2. There is a lump on the rear right top of the gearbox which has an M10 tapped hole in it. It does nothing but when the gearbox is mounted in the vehicle it knocks against the transmission tunnel. I cut mine off with a dremel multitool.
