Want to Rebuild EA81

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Thu Aug 22, 2013 8:25 am

I used MY box xmem, MY 4WD box metal mount brackets, rat tail filed to suit L box and it all lines up not squish things or distort and never had a drama with new genuine MY box mounts with L 5sp 4WD box

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Fri Aug 23, 2013 7:53 pm

It's probably one of those things you just need to see to understand.

And no, I've not done this conversion, but I've been donated all the bits (except a gearbox) to do it.

Cheers

Bennie

littlewhiteute · Post by **littlewhiteute** » Sat Aug 24, 2013 6:10 am

[quote="555Ron"]Gary, I think the only difference between EA71 and EA81 pistons is the height from gudgeon pin to the top surface of the piston. I haven't seen any EA71 pistons that had a domed top surface. But I may be wrong...

Ok, just to give this a bit of a bump... the dream is still alive.

I have my engine back - I dropped it off in January and after a lot of waiting and frustration I got it back today. Can anyone see where they have F'd up?

No putty back together this weekend. They said they checked the end float - I'm not an expert but I would have thought checking it would involve meshing the gear of the crank and cam together in a block half which won't work with the gear on backwards. If not... how do you check it?

The cam end float can be measured in your hands with a feeler gauge.

It is the total clearance at the cam retaining plate.

Pity they put the gear on backwards, obviously needs to be reversed and clearance checked again.

Ended up with Wiseco 0.5mm oversize pistons. They look nice - shame to hide them in the block.

Have you got a pic of your old pistons? All of what I have done are completely flat - flattops, no valve reliefs. Yours will have lower compression. Although you'll pick some up with the oversize.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Aug 24, 2013 9:11 am

It's funny how some pop up once in a while and mention EA71, EA81 pisstons are different. Every once in a while I pop up and add that both times I rebuilt EA81's the pistons came marked as EA71/EA81 ...hmm and they were flat tops.
Think someone else recently pressed cam cog on BTF as well

Doug ?

555Ron · Post by **555Ron** » Wed Sep 04, 2013 7:11 pm

Ok, this thread is jumping a little but I just thought I'd put some photo's up for those considering the 5 speed conversion. I modified the links in line with the photo's on this page below so credit to Rick - rtcb65 for his help. I just thought i would show how it worked and one stumbling block.

showthread.php?t=11821&page=4

The MY mount on the L series gearbox passenger side. Couldn't quite get it to bolt up so it had to be elongated ever so slightly. I have a tungsten tool for my dremel that made short work of it.

The MY mount on the L series gearbox drivers side. Holes at the top don't line up so i drilled a new hole exactly between the top two holes to minimise the amount of material i had to take out.

The MY cross member. I had to extend the two mounting holes 8 mm outwards each. There are small locating holes that the mounting rubbers sit into on the member. They should also be moved outwards - just re-drill them with a 4 or 5mm drill bit.

Pre-install, linkages assembled. Wiring harness from the MY box has been soldered onto the L-Series. I believe the colours match those on the L series (hasn't been tested yet). I just heat shrinked over one as I am hoping to use the existing MY lever which has a micro-switch for Hi range 4wd. The L series uses a switch on the gearbox.

This bolt and part of the casing marked with black permanent marker hits on the trans tunnel in a standard height Brumby so i had to drop it to grind it off.

All fixed. The case should be grinded back a little more then what it is but not sure I can be bothered.

In position. I bolted it to the floor with an M6x20 bolt. M8 would be a better option but I didn't have one lying around.

This is what it looks like inside. I had the shift lever chromed to match the MY look as much as possible, and the original 4 speed knob with thread onto it so it should be hard to spot. I can shift through the six gears and there was no cutting of the floor required which is what I wanted. One 6 mm hole is all that was needed.

The Hi/Lo lever is the only problem. It bolted up perfectly which I didn't think it would. However, the lever need to be pulled towards the rear of the car to engage 4wd. It would appear the MY box lever required to be pushed to the front of the car so while it will all bolt up the only thing I can have is FWD.

So I have been trying to think of solutions and obviously using the L-series setup is the easiest. But the link enters the cabin on the drivers side and bolts to a piece which crosses it over to the passenger side. I am thinking of creating a bell crank somewhat like this...

http://www.alibrepowered.com/public/use ... jpg?c=9a55

By mount it in the centre of the tunnel it should change the lever from pushing on the linkage to pulling on it. I think it should work and is the easiest thing I can think of. Anyone think of something better?

555Ron · Post by **555Ron** » Wed Sep 04, 2013 7:24 pm

Ok, so it won't let me have any more photo's in that post so here is my idea. If the bolt in the middle is mounted to the floor it should get me out of trouble if you see what I'm getting at...

Ohh, and Gary I do have the original pistons - they are flat tops, I'll put them side by side so they can be compared when I get around to it...

Post by **Bantum** » Wed Sep 04, 2013 9:26 pm

Looks good ...

So, where did you get all the 're-plating' done ?

Cheers, Bantum ...

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Wed Sep 04, 2013 9:56 pm

Nah steptoe, not me

.

Looks really good Ron, Wish I had the time, skill and equiptment to do the same to my old girl. Il just drool over your's for now, vortex is getting the next birthday

.

Regards

Doug

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Thu Sep 05, 2013 8:21 am

someone has access to a bead blaster

Good that you took pics of th easy mount conversion. The info I got many years ago was just to rat tail file the holes longer. I see you have redrilled one side significantly more than I needed to file out.

555Ron · Post by **555Ron** » Fri Sep 06, 2013 8:15 pm

Bantum wrote:Looks good ...

So, where did you get all the 're-plating' done ?

Cheers, Bantum ...

I'm in Newcastle, so I used Hamilton Chrome. It's supposedly not too difficult to get a DIY kit and plate them yourself. It takes a while to cut the electrodes off so I imagine it would be quite time consuming to wire up.

Cheers Doug, not much skill involved but plenty of time required. Like way more then I ever anticipated but hopefully it turns out nice...

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Fri Sep 13, 2013 8:49 pm

Awesome stuff Ron! I'm looking at a 5 speed conversion on a brumby at some point, so your note and photos of what to shave etc are very valuable!

Interesting about the difference in the 4wd mechanism operation - and strange that they'd change something like that between models...

Cheers

Bennie

555Ron · Post by **555Ron** » Wed Jun 25, 2014 5:03 pm

So, for some reason it seems the crank pulley wants to sit too far back and not align with the water pump. Looks like it needs to be shimmed out by 2mm. And it's not just the water pump, the power steering belts just rubs on the distributor.. Seems like the crank pulley sits on the gear for the distributor. Could I have meshed the gears incorrectly or should i just shim it. There's usually a reason though why these things don't bolt together correctly.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Wed Jun 25, 2014 7:10 pm

Got similar not look to line up issues on my new HG project on a block no where near as clinical looking as yours - get aload of the allen head bolts on the water pump !!
V belts are pretty forgiving aren't they? Care factor for mine at the moment is close to zero so gonna go back as it was.

Post by **Bantum** » Wed Jun 25, 2014 11:10 pm

I seem to recall that the water pump has two versions, with slightly differing deck heights, that might be worth looking into ...

Or you could adjust the water pump pulley by 'Pressing' it on the shaft a bit more ?

Looking good other wise ...

Cheers, Bantum ...

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Thu Jun 26, 2014 5:05 am

Definitely looks like the crank pulley is sitting too far in. I can measure my stock EA81 if you want? With the pulley off, can you move the crank in and out (forwards and backwards)? As I'm suspecting thrust washer issues but this is worst case scenario. Other issue it could be is the dizzy timing gear is flogged out but hard to see that happening.

555Ron · Post by **555Ron** » Sun Jun 29, 2014 3:39 pm

So, yes, the crank will move backwards and forwards on the thrust bearing but not that that extent. It turns over smoothly with the distributor in so i think those gears are meshing nicely. I'd be interested in your measurements Paul, just let me know where you are measuring from and we'll compare. I'm getting some shims made otherwise the power steering belt will make a mess rubbing on the distributor...

555Ron · Post by **555Ron** » Fri Jul 11, 2014 5:09 pm

Next problem. The crank to flywheel seal. Here is my old crank..

The seal is pretty obvious here... it's red. My engine manual describes it as an o-ring. It's very flat and my VRS kit has a seal in it just like it. But I wouldn't call it an o-ring.

The new crank has a groove in it that is only about half the width of the of the red seal in the first picture. There's only one listing in the Subaru book for the seal. I'm thinking about taking the entire engine to the bearing shop and putting a fat o-ring in there and bolting it together. How important is the seal?

ktmtragic · Post by **ktmtragic** » Sun Jul 13, 2014 5:29 pm

Oil seal for sure

Nubaru · Post by **Nubaru** » Mon Jul 14, 2014 8:10 am

I had an early EA81 crank that did not have the obvious recess for this flat orange seal, no seal came out when the flex plate of the auto tranny came off - so, no seal went back in with a flywheel bolted up in its place. Some sealant did however go in just in case.

I am sure the flange for fly on the back of the crank is not integrally part of the crank - more is splined or interference fit on the crank and this would be where some oil may seep ??

555Ron · Post by **555Ron** » Mon Jul 14, 2014 9:42 am

Nubaru wrote:I am sure the flange for fly on the back of the crank is not integrally part of the crank - more is splined or interference fit on the crank and this would be where some oil may seep ??

Yes, you are right. It is pressed on. I ended up putting an o-ring in there but I doubt it would be big enough to seal it so I spread the anaerobic sealant on the mating surfaces. Should be good enough. I doubt there would be much seepage through it.