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Ok, I need a new engine for my Brumby. I was just wondering if you think the engine i have is going to scrub up ok as it has been out in the weather and looks quite rough. Can it be soda/bead blasted to bring it back to it's original glory?

I was looking on ebay for a new block and there is one that says ea81 long motor and ea81 short motor - is there any difference if i was looking for a better ea81 to rebuild?

And are the three holes i have pointed to on the head where the power steering bolts up to?

What sort of things should i be buying? New cam, new pusrod, new valves, new hydraulic lifters??

Just thinking out loud and trying to get organised... have seen this thread...
showthread.php?t=19634&highlight=ea81+rebuild ...for guidance as well.

Haha if you use my thread for guidance, just know that engine failed within 30 km's I think because something wasn't torqued up to spec or there was some crud stuck in a oil gallery that got pushed into a main bearing. But that's another story.

Yes those 3 holes are for P/steering but you'll need the 3 groove crank pulley and a few other things if you want p/steer. If you can get that engine apart without breaking anything and there's no cracks or terrible corrosion inside, it will scrub up fine and with a bead blast and re-painted rocker covers and sump they look like new. Shouldn't need a new cam, if you're doing a proper rebuild you can get it re-ground. Pushrods should be fine, valves and seats can be re-cut but you should get the cylinders bored and or honed with new pistons and rings to suit as well as the obvious things like main and big end bearings, crank linish. On the other engine I got built it had solid lifters but they can be re-faced as well. Are EA81 hydraulic lifters still available???

That's about as far as my knowledge goes; there are others on here who know alot more than me. If littlewhiteute Gary pops in I'm sure he'll have some wise words.

Does the crank in that engine rotate?

If it does, I'm betting it would start

Long motor = bare complete engine you must use all you accessories.

short motor = complete block, no heads (or it should be complete) your heads and pushrods and accessories.

TOONGA

It took me a while to find this again, but this thread on USMB has a very photo heavy EA81 re build.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/sho ... 81+rebuild

TOONGA

hydraulic for EA81 never been available in Australia from dealer.
Stick your engine in with rebuilder and let them advise you what they can do or need. I get mine to former glory visually with dremel style wire brush, wax and grease remover etc

I believe if someone wants to further themselves and rebuild an engine (a very simple engine at that) They should give it a go. If I had the space (and my own house) I would give it a go as well.

For sure get a engine builder to clean and hone the halves but do the rest yourself

TOONGA

do a rebuild your self as long as it all clean so well presser cleaner in your ports in your crank use moly engine rebuild on all your moving parts and do as per torqued up to spec and all good .. And when u get it running driving it like it stolen for run in all good .. .. i wood do the the pot hone your self as u will find it will not need much as it will still have the factory hone marks still in it .. As if u understand the engines they have all ways got oil sitting in the pots when running ... good luck on the rebuild have a go at it your self .. just send your heads off to get redone as that what is hard to do your self ..

I'm doing another motor at the moment for a fellow member, a factory dual carb engine.

It will get a small Tighe cam 260 degrees, .400 valve lift, new standard bore ring set, very light hone of the bores, some original crosshatch still visible, and some reasonably worked heads.

Spend your money in the heads, that's where any engine will benefit.

Ok, thanks guys. Yeah, the engine was in a car that was given to me, it had been sitting for some time. We threw some fuel down the carb and it ran, not great but it did. The bloke said it ran hot last time he had it going...

What's the trick to getting the oil pickup out of the block without damaging it? And one of the wrist pin caps on the front has stripped... any ideas to getting it out?

gudgeon pin access plug is no longer 14mm hex socket ? Heat from a small butane/propane torch is good, a pointy centre punch can help too by hammering it in at an angle to help get a turn out of the plug - anti clockwise

littlewhiteute wrote:I'm doing another motor at the moment for a fellow member, a factory dual carb engine.

Lucky fella!

littlewhiteute wrote:It will get a ... very light hone of the bores, some original crosshatch still visible....

I wouldn't trust those visible hone marks. I've been told that they won't be doing much at that age of the engine. My 300k km EA82 had hone marks on the bore and it was it's first rebuild. That engine didn't make it, severe over heating warped the cylinders (rebore required), not an issue, but the crack down the length of one of the cylinder liners sealed the fate of that block - you could catch your fingernail on it!

I know a rebore costs more due to the new piston heads required, but I'd go for that option before a light hone.

My 5c.

Cheers

Bennie

Ok, the block i have is out of a 1992 Brumby but the RTA said i can't use it unless I have a receipt. I was given the car and I'm not really sure who owned it. Can i take the block of a 1983 ea81 and put the 92 heads and hydraulic lifter into the block? Or are solid and hydraulic lifters different block casting?

Just get the person who gave you the car to write you a reciept / letter saying that they gave you the car.

Then it is legally yours (technically)

TOONGA

555Ron wrote:Ok, the block i have is out of a 1992 Brumby but the RTA said i can't use it unless I have a receipt. I was given the car and I'm not really sure who owned it.

Does a stat dec from the police count? I got told by an official (very quietly) that anyone can go home and make up a receipt - so I got a statutory declaration from the police so everything was above board. I don't know if this will count for your RTA mob but it does in Vic.

All the best with it

Cheers

Bennie

Ask NSW RMS to put that in writing, so you can reply asking why they are concerned about something that is at least 20 years old and worth about $5 as scrap ? Is it an RMS rule , number please, or the law, nsw or federal.

Hydraulic lifters when fitted factory have sleeve inserts to sit in and may need same to run hydraulic. I'd go solids as I have in the past, given solids reliability and power increase

Ron I have a few to spare.
1 has been cooked no carb, dizzy or water pump.
1 was running OK but has done a manifold gasket it has not been cooked so i am told NO water in oil.
1 with recoed heads no manifold or dizzy
1 good runner was recoed, removed only for electric conversion.
1 fully recoed, new bearings, rings, pistons, cyls rebored honed and decked, heads and valves ground and machined, lumpy cam, I was going to put this in an aeroplane but it may go in my Brumby or sell for$2.5K

3 others going in Brumbys

Coffs Harbour

Ok, got another engine attached to a Brumby with Air Conditioning for $300. It's been a little drawn out with other things getting in the way, but, I have split the block, had the heads and block washed and acid bathed (got it for half price cause it didn't do much but took away all the grease and oil) and I'm now giving them a blast with glass in my recently acquired cabinet.

Came up pretty good but there is little black marks which Google tells me is carbon. Anyone got any brilliant ideas for getting rid of it? I also have a sheet of glass and wanted to sand the head and block faces - what grade of sand paper is used? Probably won't be able to do it on the block with half a stud sticking out - i had to strip a few threads to get some of the others out.

Last question for the minute - the temp sender in the inlet manifold stripped when i pulled it out - If i helicoil it - will the helicoil seal the water jacket or should I get another manifold?

looking good when you said you had blasted the block and heads with glass beads, I thought you had done the pistons as well, I had to read it again.

Get another manifold but make sure your carby fits

I would go to the EA82 manifold like most of the Americans do. they are newer and have less porosity (from age) and are a bit bigger in the port areas you will need to modify a few things but from what Ive read it is worth it. sadly the link I had was on the hard drive that crashed

TOONGA

TOONGA wrote:I would go to the EA82 manifold like most of the Americans do. they are newer and have less porosity (from age) and are a bit bigger in the port areas you will need to modify a few things but from what Ive read it is worth it. sadly the link I had was on the hard drive that crashed

There's a coolant hose that needs to be modified so it goes around the dizzy. Easily done. The thermostat housing is reversed and a custom pipe is needed to go around the PS pump if you've got one, otherwise I think it can stay the same.

That's about it from memory. Do a search on the USMB

All the best with the rebuild!

Cheers

Bennie