The AUSubaru.com.au Forums

Ok so I'm planning on welding my rear diff this weekend for my L series bush basher.

I've got it out of the car, pulled apart and all cleaned up reading for welding.

Can anyone tell me how the stub axle seals hold up under the heat of welding?

I have done a bit of reading on here about welded diffs but nobody mentions seal replacement. I'm assuming they will hold up ok?

Cheers

If you good with a welder, 8 short runs across the side gears shouldn't create too much heat.

Alternate the welds from side to side, 8 all up until you're done.

showthread.php?t=5230

I'm planning on using a couple of bolts like this.

Maybe I should just take the diff centre out of the housing...

You only need to do something like this on both sides:

http://www.cherokeeforum.com/attachment ... 217409.jpg

Taking the diff centre out of the housing isn't difficult. Just remove the side plates that hold the bearings in place, but keep them and the shims on the side of the housing that they came from. Once you're done welding put it all back together in the reverse of how you pulled it apart.

I welded my rear diff ages ago and we didn't bother with bolts etc. That's just overkill. All you need to do is weld the side and spider gears together then weld every edge of the diff centre to these gears as well. All up there should be 4 points of welding on each gear. They're not going to move!

Also I shaved my output stubs by 7mm to make installing/removing the driveshafts easier. I also carried a spare set incase one snapped - I've seen the WA boys do that before...

Cheers

Bennie

ok sounds good. I think i'll take the diff centre out. If you take the side plates off I assume you need to undo the bolt inside the stub aswell. This looks like a torx head,which I don't have. An 8mm fits over it ok but I don't know if I trust it...

Has anyone undone it like this or should I find the right socket...

Only problem is all the shops are shut now and I'm planning on doing this tomorrow

subius wrote:ok sounds good. I think i'll take the diff centre out. If you take the side plates off I assume you need to undo the bolt inside the stub aswell. This looks like a torx head,which I don't have. An 8mm fits over it ok but I don't know if I trust it...

Has anyone undone it like this or should I find the right socket...

I got a cheap deep socket set from supercrap and used the 8mm socket from that. You just need to crack that torx bolt then it will unscrew easily from there and the stub will slide out

Doing it up is the reverse And if you break the socket it's no great loss...

Cheers

Bennie

El_Freddo wrote:Also I shaved my output stubs by 7mm to make installing/removing the driveshafts easier.

I reckon that is a smart idea

I also carried a spare set incase one snapped - I've seen the WA boys do that before...

Very good idea! I've seen the WA boys change a CV ontop of a sand dune in about 25mins!!

This is another technique I've seen used

taza wrote:I reckon that is a smart idea )

It's just one of the things you do with a welded rear end. It allows you to remove a shaft once you've got one of the rear wheels jacked up, the drop in the suspension with the compression of the shaft "play" allows you to remove the shaft without removing the diff at the same time.

Gannon wrote:This is another technique I've seen used

For real? Epic fail right there! Seriously someone must be taking the piss.

Cheers

Bennie

Gannon wrote:This is another technique I've seen used

that the way to do it one locked diff it will take u any wear u want to go and u want get bog with that welded up .. have fun time on the road ..

Ok so pull the diff centre out, and the ring gear off, made it so much easier. Don't think its going to move now...



We decided too much weld couldn't be a bad thing. Overkill is your friend

That one over killed of a diff welded up go any wear with that one ..

I would also be inclined to weld the back of the side gears to the diff housing/centre piece... But that should do it I guess

Cheers

Bennie

DO you have to remove the driveshaft if you are only ever going to use 4wd in sand mud rock ect?

Gannon wrote:

I'm still learning the workings of a diff internals but wont this prevent the axle from turning?

EDIT: OK must be a joke...how would they get it back inside the housing lol

I like this...nice & neat yet functional
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/attachment ... 217409.jpg

If I had an offroad only bush basher I would so be doing this!

El_Freddo wrote:
Also I shaved my output stubs by 7mm to make installing/removing the driveshafts easier. I also carried a spare set incase one snapped - I've seen the WA boys do that before...

Cheers

Bennie

im just trying to grasp the whole removing it.. do you just take one side out?

my roomate is a diesel mechanic hes going to weld the diff up for me but he doesn't see how the whole onroad stance works..

pictures would be nice if anyone has any laying around...?

cheers

Shave 7mm off these buggers, jack up the RHS wheel and remove the shaft for on road driving.

As for actually welding the diff, the images above with the bolts is over kill but will do the job - really any contact point of the spider gears needs to be welded, so this makes each gear welded together where they mesh, and also weld across the top of each gear so it's welded to the housing. This will ensure they don't move.

Also a good idea to keep things cool if you don't remove the bearings off the sides.

You need to remove the diff output stubs to get the centre out, but you can weld it in place if you're careful.

Cheers

Bennie

El_Freddo wrote:

Shave 7mm off these buggers, jack up the RHS wheel and remove the shaft for on road driving.

As for actually welding the diff, the images above with the bolts is over kill but will do the job - really any contact point of the spider gears needs to be welded, so this makes each gear welded together where they mesh, and also weld across the top of each gear so it's welded to the housing. This will ensure they don't move.

Also a good idea to keep things cool if you don't remove the bearings off the sides.

You need to remove the diff output stubs to get the centre out, but you can weld it in place if you're careful.

Cheers

Bennie

thanks heaps bennie! this thread is now the ultimate step by step visual guide to welding the rear diff

i was under SportySu this arvo trying to suss it all out and make sure i have all the right tools ready and get everything right as this is the only car me and my misses have atm.

now i have a very clear idea of what to do, cant thankyou enough mate yewww

Yarran wrote:i was under SportySu this arvo trying to suss it all out and make sure i have all the right tools ready and get everything right as this is the only car me and my misses have atm.

No worries mate. You can still drive your subi without the rear diff - remove the two drive shafts, diff and half of the two piece tail shaft. The bearing carrier holds the front half of the tail shaft in the gearbox keeping it sealed up

I've done that a couple of times before!

Cheers

Bennie