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Brumby shaking under load, gearbox mounts?
Posted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 7:05 pm
by Silverbullet
I hope everyone is having a good long weekend! I thought now would be a good time to figure out a problem in the Brum.
Basically under heavy load (mostly up any kind of hill) the car shakes like crazy. Not a vibration but a slow oscillating shake/shudder from side to side. It's so bad it makes the wing mirrors look like they're about to fall off, and you can hear the window glass rattling around inside the doors. Couple this with the engine being totally gutless and hills aren't a pleasant sight.
Apparently the gearbox mounts for these are notoriously fragile, do broken mounts cause these symptoms? A former Brumby owner told me it will be the mounts, but he also said they cause the veer to one side under power, and the other way when coasting which my car doesn't do. Something that has just started as well when costing (specially around corners) there is a violent "whump whump whump" from the front left wheel, and it yanks the steering wheel from side to side. It only does this sometimes, and like I say coasting around corners brings it on big time. Does not happen when in neutral or clutch disengaged.
I'm going to poke around under there tomorrow, how do I check the gearbox mounts, poke a crowbar in somewhere and jiggle things around? I've found a pair of new mounts on ebay, about $90 landed. Thinking I should get them, jack the car up one weekend and put new mounts in. Hopefully it's something that simple and not something else more major.
Posted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 7:32 pm
by TOONGA
Sounds like a shaft or hub problem, I would be checking the left hub for spline wear and the inner cv for extreme bearing/race wear.
TOONGA
Posted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 7:49 pm
by steptoe
CV inners can do so whumpy bumby things, forgotten whether it is on or off load that it occurs. Can I just say however much you save on gearbox mounts - go genuine. I bought some after market ones and they were rough bastards in their fitment - the extra time and stuffing around was something muttering about bein a tight arse. They were made in er India and sure they'll be roo ted before I get to use the ute. Sube does 'em about 72 bucks each
Posted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 8:10 pm
by Silverbullet
So to check the hub/splines I no doubt need to remove the 36mm axle nut. Since I don't have the socket that's out for tomorrow. I have to find a place that sells them that big, just need the socket and a breaker bar. How do I check the inner for bearing/race wear? That sounds like a take apart and see job. If it comes to that I might just get a new axle.
Posted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 8:14 pm
by TOONGA
Yep you must remove the 36mm castelated nut then get the washer and cone washer out. tap on the outer cv shaft with a soft face hammer this will make the cv shaft move back then you can inspect the hub spline for wear. the shaft is a fun little process to remove if you haven't done one before. rebuilding one is another fun project especially if you like greeen grease
SCA has a 3/4 inch socket set for around 90 dollars
TOONGA
Posted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 8:43 pm
by steptoe
buy the horse just coz you need a shoe??
I found a 36mm 3/4 at SCA and picked it up as a spare about $5 and it works! A 450mm long 3/4 breaker bar at a swap meet, just gotta sniff out the bargains - ebay ?
Posted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 8:45 pm
by Silverbullet
Odd, I couldn't find the 3/4 set at supercrap on 2 separate visits. I looked into removing the axles recently for CV boot replacement and found that it looks very easy; just remove the axle nut, pop the ball joint and swing the whole lot out of the way or something to that effect.
Axles or hub are sounding more likely the culprit the more I think of it; when I took the gearbox out of the wagon the mounts fell apart as I unbolted them, and I didn't have any issues when I was driving that.
*Edit*
steptoe wrote:buy the horse just coz you need a shoe??
I found a 36mm 3/4 at SCA and picked it up as a spare about $5 and it works! A 450mm long 3/4 breaker bar at a swap meet, just gotta sniff out the bargains - ebay ?
I think replacing the whole shaft will be quicker and easier for me than rebuilding the old joints, especially when I need the car for work on Monday morning

Do the Hippy Shake ...
Posted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 9:23 pm
by Bantum
I'd do a quick check of these :
Easy to do - If put your jack under and gently lift the gearbox ( take usual precations with jack stands, etc ) & see if they have separated. If rubber bond has broken, they will cause shudder of the sort you discribe, as basically with out them there's nothing stopping torque from motor pulling on the drive system ...
Done mine a little while ago & it stopped the 'shakes' dead - I'd replace them while your at it either way, as the're probably 30 + year old by now ...
Ciao, Bantum ...

Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 7:09 am
by steptoe
Think mine was clearance sale of slow moving stuff. So, not a public holiday in SA?
I too have driven on broken box mounts and only found on general inspection, not chasing a whump whump or anything
Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 7:16 am
by steptoe
Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 8:46 am
by Brumby Kid
Only place in Adelaide close to us Sam was Gasweld total tools St Mary's.
Oppisite stratco.
That was Sidcrhome. Socket and 3/4 bar. Cost lots and lots!
Super crap don't have any 3/4 stuff in SA.
If you want to borrow mine let me know.
Cheers Cam
Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 10:24 am
by TOONGA
there are 2 SCA 3/4 kits available
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online ... 1499#Cross
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online ... 2176#Cross
as well there is a store locator for
South Australia.
I find it very hard to believe that SCA doesn't have any 3/4 drive sockets or sets in South Australia. thats just commercial suicide.
TOONGA
Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 10:45 am
by Silverbullet
Ebay was my next step Jonno
Cam, yeah I know Gasweld and total tools sell all that gear but I also know the kind of prices involved!
I couldn't believe it either, but I've never seen any 3/4 stuff at SCA, at least not in the 2 or 3 I've been to regularly.
Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 11:03 am
by 555Ron
I got a half inch drive socket from Gasweld to do my hubs. I have an old bar here I put on it that is about 300mm long to do the job. Then I get my big arse adjustable wrench on the end of that and stand on it. Hasn't failed me yet - used it about 6 times. Total cost $19.50 from memory though I should probably treat myself to a good breaker bar... I think I've earned it.
My big arse adjustable wrench never seems to go on the head of the nut but it gets quite a bit of use. It's my favourite trick before resorting to violence. (The big arse hammer - very rarely used)
Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 12:42 pm
by steptoe
field days, swap meets, garage sales are good to scrounge for these. Got a used and rusty breaker bar in 3/4 about $15 , then found new cheap stuff at another stall and got a back up in shiny china stuff about same $15 again
Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 7:34 pm
by Silverbullet
Got under there with a crow bar today to check the gearbox mounts, and sure enough they are both toast. But then so were the wagon ones and there was no shaking.
Next step is to get a 3/4 breaker bar and socket for the axle nuts and spend a couple of hours having a look at the hubs/axles.
Thanks for the help guys
