1990 GX Liberty Auto to Manual conversion ???
- Liberty Valance
- Junior Member
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- Joined: Thu Jan 05, 2012 11:03 am
- Location: Qld
1990 GX Liberty Auto to Manual conversion ???
The hunt for a replacement Auto transmission for Liberty Valance is going nowhere quickly but I can get my hands on a 2.0L 98 Forester 5 speed dual range manual transmission. This appears to be a good option for correcting final drive gearing when running 27" tires with the bonus of a reasonable low range reduction.
So what's my shopping list apart from the transmission and do I need a Liberty or Forester flywheel?
Can anyone see any major issues with this conversion?
So what's my shopping list apart from the transmission and do I need a Liberty or Forester flywheel?
Can anyone see any major issues with this conversion?
- vincentvega
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I am considering doing the same thing. The following is some notes I found after a few hours googling (in no particular order).
Check out this link first:
http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swa ... l.html#tcu
you will need
clutch
pressure plate
flywheel
clutch master cylinder
clutch pedal assembly
clutch line
to wire up ya auto computer think its always in N
clutch boot
for looks a manual cluster
and a gearbox
manual tailshaft?
manual gearbox X member
> Gearbox
> Flywheel & nuts
> Clutch & nuts
> fork & assosiated clips, rubber boot, spring
> throw out bearing (the one i got with GB was buggered)
> crossmember
> starter motor (bolts)
> clutch cabel
> pedla box (both parts)
> shifter assembly (make sure you get the shifter bracket)
> shifter knob and boot
> Tailshaft (you need to be careful which ine u need, i had to prefit the gbox in order to measure up which tailshft i need ... there are afew different ones as i found out)
1. unplug the auto ecu and remove.
2. pull out the 2 biggest wires from the plug B40 and solder together. B40 = 12 pin plug
3. pull out the to reverse wires from B40 and connect to gearbox plugs.
* 1 x Dual range AWD gearbox in good condition
* 1 x Pedal assembly
* 1 x Clutch (12 months old)
* 1 x Pressure plate
* 1 x Flywheel
* 1 x Diff Ratio to suit
* 1 x Clutch cable
* 1 x Rear manual centre console
* 1 x Dash facia to remove the gastly auto gear light
* 1 x Gear linkages and gear stick
http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swa ... l.html#tcu
auto to manual is easy. on the 12 pin auto box plug, join the 2 biggest wires and solder. check the online 92 Workshop manual for the reverse wires on the 12 pin plug that need to be joined to gearbox for reverse. cant remember. neutral i didnt wire in. remove the TCU as its not needed anymore. and you are done.. there is no need to earth a pin on the ecu.. i never did on my 89 auto to manual JDM gt legacy. and it ran very nicely for 2 years without a problem.
neutral switch makes the car idle better at rest and while your changing gears. I had done the conversion without grounding the AT/MT identifier for a little while, it seemed ok, but when i grounded it, it made a hell of alot of difference. Especially during deceleration, and while in gear and off the pedal.
Like i said before vaccine it might vary from model to model, but i dont see why they wouldnt have the identifiers? Maybe the Liberty RS didnt because it only came manual, as far as im aware the legacy GT came both.
http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/..._I-O_page2.jpg
Connector number B48 and terminal number 20, see if you have a wire coming out of it. That should tell u ur next line of action. Wether to cut it or ground it
IF your auto speedo cable is in good nick, then all you need is the angle drive (about $70 new) to transition between the auto cable drive and the screw-in thread on your manual gearbag!
Check out this link first:
http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swa ... l.html#tcu
you will need
clutch
pressure plate
flywheel
clutch master cylinder
clutch pedal assembly
clutch line
to wire up ya auto computer think its always in N
clutch boot
for looks a manual cluster
and a gearbox
manual tailshaft?
manual gearbox X member
> Gearbox
> Flywheel & nuts
> Clutch & nuts
> fork & assosiated clips, rubber boot, spring
> throw out bearing (the one i got with GB was buggered)
> crossmember
> starter motor (bolts)
> clutch cabel
> pedla box (both parts)
> shifter assembly (make sure you get the shifter bracket)
> shifter knob and boot
> Tailshaft (you need to be careful which ine u need, i had to prefit the gbox in order to measure up which tailshft i need ... there are afew different ones as i found out)
1. unplug the auto ecu and remove.
2. pull out the 2 biggest wires from the plug B40 and solder together. B40 = 12 pin plug
3. pull out the to reverse wires from B40 and connect to gearbox plugs.
* 1 x Dual range AWD gearbox in good condition
* 1 x Pedal assembly
* 1 x Clutch (12 months old)
* 1 x Pressure plate
* 1 x Flywheel
* 1 x Diff Ratio to suit
* 1 x Clutch cable
* 1 x Rear manual centre console
* 1 x Dash facia to remove the gastly auto gear light
* 1 x Gear linkages and gear stick
http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swa ... l.html#tcu
auto to manual is easy. on the 12 pin auto box plug, join the 2 biggest wires and solder. check the online 92 Workshop manual for the reverse wires on the 12 pin plug that need to be joined to gearbox for reverse. cant remember. neutral i didnt wire in. remove the TCU as its not needed anymore. and you are done.. there is no need to earth a pin on the ecu.. i never did on my 89 auto to manual JDM gt legacy. and it ran very nicely for 2 years without a problem.
neutral switch makes the car idle better at rest and while your changing gears. I had done the conversion without grounding the AT/MT identifier for a little while, it seemed ok, but when i grounded it, it made a hell of alot of difference. Especially during deceleration, and while in gear and off the pedal.
Like i said before vaccine it might vary from model to model, but i dont see why they wouldnt have the identifiers? Maybe the Liberty RS didnt because it only came manual, as far as im aware the legacy GT came both.
http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/..._I-O_page2.jpg
Connector number B48 and terminal number 20, see if you have a wire coming out of it. That should tell u ur next line of action. Wether to cut it or ground it
IF your auto speedo cable is in good nick, then all you need is the angle drive (about $70 new) to transition between the auto cable drive and the screw-in thread on your manual gearbag!

brumbyrunner wrote:And just to clarify the real 4WD thing, Subarus are an unreal 4WD.
I've done this in a 1990 legacy gt. It's all pretty straight forward. You might need a manual starter motor too, check that, I can't remember for sure.
As far as the wiring goes you need to look after:
Reverse lights
Inhibitor switch (I think that's what it's called) to let you start the car out of park
Switch that keeps the key locked in if you don't select park.
Neutral switch
Clutch switch could be done for cruise control, i didn't.
As far as the wiring goes you need to look after:
Reverse lights
Inhibitor switch (I think that's what it's called) to let you start the car out of park
Switch that keeps the key locked in if you don't select park.
Neutral switch
Clutch switch could be done for cruise control, i didn't.
- vincentvega
- Senior Member
- Posts: 2446
- Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Brisvegas
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Are you going to add lift for 27's?
As the others have said it is relatively straight forward mechanically however it can get a lil tricky electronically. I still cant get my cruise control and ABS to work.
Don't forget you will want the break pedal out of a manual also.
As the others have said it is relatively straight forward mechanically however it can get a lil tricky electronically. I still cant get my cruise control and ABS to work.
Don't forget you will want the break pedal out of a manual also.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] H6 outback 5 speed D/R
- El_Freddo
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Your Outback is probably a bit different Hydrowill, we're dealing with a 1990 liberty - the cruise control will just need the pick up from the speedo I'm sure. I would also bet that these cruise systems in the early libertys are just a lay over wiring system, not an integrated one that it would most likely be in the later models...hydrowill wrote:Are you going to add lift for 27's?
As the others have said it is relatively straight forward mechanically however it can get a lil tricky electronically. I still cant get my cruise control and ABS to work.
Cheers
Bennie
- vincentvega
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