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Can someone please help I fitted the 32/36 Weber conversion 3 months ago and recently with the colder weather in Vic its been harder to start. I worked out that by undoing the 3 screws at the front where the choke spring is housed and turning it 1/8 of an inch at a time it has improved cold starting. Now the engine runs on after the key is turned off for about 1-2 seconds before it shudders to a halt, hot or cold it doesnt matter. It now does this 1 in every 3 times I shut the key off. Its getting more regular any clues? The carb is brand new. I fitted all new plugs, col, leads dist cap made sure elec choke has a hot wire, checked everything. Please someeone give me some hope this thing is plagued with problems only has 184,000 km's. Thanks

Is it one of those electric coil type setups? I originally had one of them on my weber. Yes it sorta worked but it was a royal pain in the butt to be honest. I actually ended up completely disconnecting the choke butterflys for the good part of 12 months. Recently Ive also had to reconnect it to help the old girl get going in the mornings. My advice would be when the car is cold, pull off your air filter so you can see the choke butterfly. Loosen the three screws that hold the choke mechanism in place. now what you want to do is gently start rotating it so the choke starts to close. It will get to a point where the choke butterfly's stop and wont close anymore. Go back to the point where they stop and give it about an extra 8th of a turn and retighten your three screws to lock it in place.

Now that the choke tension is set correctly, you need to adjust your choked idle speed. To do this you push your accelerator right in to full throttle and let it back out. When you do this the choke butterfly will snap completely shut and stay shut when you let the throttle back off.

If you look at the carby with the choke spring thingy facing you. Tucked away behind that is a screw which you will have to access from the right. This screw simply changes how much throttle is on when the car is choked. Once you find that you can start the car. Id recommend disconnecting the electric power to the choke for now, just so it doesn't have any chance of interfering as it heats up.
You may still need to bounce the throttle a few times if the carby isn't tuned properly. Once it idles without any input from the driver, adjust that screw until your idle is nice and high, maybe around 1500-2500rpm. Now your choke idle speed is set.

Now what you can do is reconnect the power to the choke and let your car warm up. After a few minutes when the car is warmed up enough to not need the choke, you simple give the throttle a sharp jab and it will drop back to your normal idle speed and the choke plates will open right up.

I had awful problems with my choke plates not opening back up enough. Its pretty sensitive thing to adjust. Not enough spring pressure and it wont engage the choke. Too much and the choke plate stays partially closed. I now have a manual cable choke on there which works a treat.

I would recommend before even starting to mess with the choke that you get your weber's best lean idle setting right. If you haven't done this Let me know and I can explain the process for that as well.

Another thing to note. Your probably going to still experience lack of power on acceleration when the car hasn't got up to temp. Because of the long cold manifold runs, fuel condenses in there and the mixture leans out. Even the old fuel injected ea82 of mine does that. Nature of the beast.

Regards

Doug