won't stay in R, '09 Diesel 6sp man

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Mon Sep 30, 2013 10:21 pm

A mate has a 09 Outback in his shop, does not like staying in reverse. Ya sort of think it is in , start to go backwards, then all of a sudden clashes and crashes as if no longer in reverse gear, and won't allow you to hold stick in place, forces it outta reverse again, crunch. All forward gears are fine apparently.

Cable shifts look fine. Have thse things got a reverse detent spring easy to access ??

Post by **TOONGA** » Tue Oct 01, 2013 9:22 pm

No idea sorry... I do have the 2010 legacy and outback FSM, the section on the 6MT is rather extensive around 3.5 meg of files all up. I can email it to you or upload it.
or you can look at it here the 2009 FSM is there as well.

Oh dear Flying Spaghetti Monster. I just read "Manual Transmission and Differential (6MT) section 18.Reverse Idler Gear" and now I want to sit in a corner and whimper.

TOONGA

tambox · Post by **tambox** » Tue Oct 01, 2013 9:35 pm

Da book says

Symptom
Possible cause
Corrective action

1. Gears are difficult to engage

NOTE:

The cause for difficulty in shifting gears can be classified into two types: One is a defective gear shift system and the other is defective transmission. However, if the operation is heavy and engagement of the gears is difficult, a defective clutch function may also be responsible. Check whether the clutch is correctly functioning, before checking the gear shift system and transmission.
(a) Worn, damaged or burred chamfer at internal spline of the sleeve
Replace.

(b) Gear spline wear, damage, dents
Replace.

(c) Worn or scratched bushings
Replace.

(d) Incorrect contact or wear between synchronizer ring and gear cone
Correct or replace.

2. Gear slip-out

• Gear slips out when coasting on rough road.

• Gear slips out during acceleration.
(a) Defective pitching stopper
Adjust.

(b) Loose engine mounting bolts
Tighten or replace.

(c) Worn fork shifter, broken shifter fork rail spring
Replace.

(d) Worn or damaged ball bearing
Replace.

(e) Large clearance between splines of synchronizer hub and synchronizer sleeve
Replace.

(f) Worn in the synchronizer hub chamfer angle
Replace.

(g) Worn 1st driven gear, needle bearing and race
Replace.

(h) Worn 2nd driven gear, needle bearing and race
Replace.

(i) Worn 3rd drive gear and bushing
Replace.

(j) Worn 4th drive gear and bushing
Replace.

(k) Worn 5th drive gear and bushing
Replace.

(l) Worn 6th drive gear and bushing
Replace.

(m) Worn reverse idler gear and bushing
Replace.

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Tue Oct 01, 2013 9:37 pm

The detents are accessible from the outside but I think you'll find it's the selector hub. Is the car under any sort of warranty? Has the car been fitted with lift blocks?

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Tue Oct 01, 2013 9:41 pm

Thanks for the efforts ( wow, can see my keys better since they copped a Electrolux 720'ing - 33 y.o vacuumer) . Think it has gone to the dealer - on my advice.

It went into reverse and then as feed it clutch, start to move backwards nicely, then grinding would start - sort of like it is internal eh?
May never hear the end result

tambox · Post by **tambox** » Tue Oct 01, 2013 9:45 pm

It has a reverse lock plunger as well as a reverse check shaft that have to be lined up.
Never seen one in bits, don't know what that means.
The operation of this can be seen from outside the rear extn housing.
Sort of sounds like the lock pin is not right.

tambox · Post by **tambox** » Tue Oct 01, 2013 9:49 pm

Grinding, may be a bit more serious.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri Oct 04, 2013 8:46 pm

Oh....it happened somewhere between 5th and 6th

spits out a coupla plastic bits internally, saves massive trauma, still needs a box pull out down etc

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Fri Oct 04, 2013 9:19 pm

Sounds like reverse light switch.. can take out of the box without pulling box out of the car but would need to be flushed out with some thinner oil for a 100 or so Kms.