EA82 turbo project!

Post by **Bantum** » Sat Jan 18, 2014 10:16 am

Sweet as Bro, looks good with all that bling ...

Cheers, Bantum ...

ktmtragic · Post by **ktmtragic** » Sat Jan 18, 2014 10:53 am

All new fasteners or did you get them anodized? If you got them anodized what does it cost to do all the trinkets? Awesome job!!

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sat Jan 18, 2014 11:42 am

How have I missed this thread??

Awesome work - I just hope it goes as good as you expect it too!

Looking forward to seeing it together in the L and running. I also hope that the L series it's going into is at show room standard going by the look of this engine!

Cheers

Bennie

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Jan 18, 2014 8:14 pm

Has anyone noticed Jays factory looking engine cradle? Is it real Subaru stuff or a good mock up ?

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Jan 18, 2014 8:18 pm

FujiFan wrote: If anyone experienced in building engines particullary has any input to offer, please do as I don't want to bugger it up:neutral:

what ring gap are you going to be using ? I had rings that gapped way over what worked out in some formula, but my machine shop fella put mind at ease, saying they did not have to be critically small gaps.....

FujiFan · Post by **FujiFan** » Sat Jan 18, 2014 11:02 pm

Thanks guys, alot of running around to sort out all this!
So to answer some questions:

All new fasteners or did you get them anodized? If you got them anodized what does it cost to do all the trinkets?

Got lots of original fasteners zinc plated, cost me about $80 a small bucket load. The factory zinc plating wears of over the years as it is a very thin layer (cheap mass prod stuff). So this look is much like how these cars were delivered from the factory. Many nuts, bolts etc are specific to these engines and Subarus in general. Even going to nut n bolt shop I would never be able to get many of the specific types. And whilst I like the idea of stainless grades there a are inherent problems using them, particularly where high tensile is required!
Most smaller stuff (bolts, nuts and washers/spacers) are plated in a barrel method. Larger pieces are dipped in a bath.
Other items such as the oil plate separator on the back of the block, and the timing belt gears on the crankshaft have been ceramic coated. More on that later.

Looking forward to seeing it together in the L and running. I also hope that the L series it's going into is at show room standard going by the look of this engine!

So am I Benny

I am working on the on rest of the car, believe me;)

Has anyone noticed Jays factory looking engine cradle? Is it real Subaru stuff or a good mock up ?

Jonno, thanks for your observation! Made a few years ago buy a mate, we studied the illustrations in the FSM and he did what he could to copy. Recently had them galvanised to keep em rust free.
These are extremely useful when working on or building these boxer engines. Highly recommend those who play with EA/EJ's to make up a pair:D

what ring gap are you going to be using ? I had rings that gapped way over what worked out in some formula, but my machine shop fella put mind at ease, saying they did not have to be critically small gaps.....

Close enough to factory specs ay Jonno;)
(top ring std = 0.04 - 0.08mm. limit 0.15mm)
(second ring std = 0.03 - 0.07mm. limit 0.15mm)
And bearing in mind that I'm using +030" oversize, I measured:
top = 0.10mm
bottom = 0.09mm

And I was given similar advice by my machine shop.

Thanks to all who are interested in following this, its a job in itself to take pics and post the progress/results etc.

Post by **Bantum** » Wed Jan 29, 2014 2:57 am

Yes - I noticed the engine cradle as well ...

Wouldn't a set of castor wheels make it easier to move though ?

Cheer, Bantum ...

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 4:21 pm

Bantum wrote:Wouldn't a set of castor wheels make it easier to move though ?

I think that would make it harder to work on the engine as it rolls around on the floor.

Two ways around this - braked castor wheels or wheels that flip up out of the way to allow the frame to sit on the floor/bench

Cheers

Bennie

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Tue Feb 11, 2014 8:38 pm

Subydoug wrote:Hmmmmmmm, Doug likes.....

So does Paul

FujiFan · Post by **FujiFan** » Sat Mar 29, 2014 10:57 pm

Update!
The delay with this build has been lack of suitable cylinder head bolts.
So because the EA82 is such a contemporary design and very popular, genuine head bolts are NLA. After market head studs no longer exist if ever because of the demand:rolleyes:

I had to have some made, which wasn't too difficult. Then they needed further heat treatment, so they would be close to something like ARP quality or OEM. All this took a few weeks to organize!

The ones in the containers on the right are an extra set.
M11 for the block, and M12 on the head side. Much easier to source M12 nuts and washers then finding M11.

Now I can progress with this build....

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Mar 30, 2014 7:35 am

Organising a muddy drive anyone ?

Looks better than factory Jay !
I'm wondering about those TB drive cogs and their finish - new ?
I think the destructins that came with my belts from US stated the TB cogs should be shiny for best results !

Is that a 105 or 110mm deck height on the water pump - pics a bit fuzzy ??

FujiFan · Post by **FujiFan** » Sun Mar 30, 2014 11:49 am

New TB kit Jonno, as it was straight outta the box.
Deck height is of no consequence with WP, as will be using EWP.

J.

ktmtragic · Post by **ktmtragic** » Tue Apr 08, 2014 9:58 pm

What is the water pump "deck height"
Thanks

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Tue Apr 08, 2014 10:18 pm

measured from block mating face to fan mating face flange - they differ between V belt 110mm or multi rib belts 105mm

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Tue Apr 08, 2014 10:20 pm

FujiFan wrote:New TB kit Jonno, as it was straight outta the box.
Deck height is of no consequence with WP, as will be using EWP.

J.

Can't spell facitious, but I may have been it, or scarcastic, cryptic ??

Is that a welch plug where a pump shaft might normally be if you were not doing an EWP ?

FujiFan · Post by **FujiFan** » Wed Apr 09, 2014 3:11 am

Is that a welch plug where a pump shaft might normally be if you were not doing an EWP ?

Yep sure is! You don't have to gut the mechanical pump in order to use the electric pump - though it helps.

ktmtragic · Post by **ktmtragic** » Wed Apr 09, 2014 8:25 am

Thanks

82leone · Post by **82leone** » Sat Jul 05, 2014 8:10 pm

Any progress on this build? Keen to see it. I have started a similar project for my xt vortex. I have 2 ex group A rally RX turbo engines. So going to strip and see what is there. Got a spider manifold to fit and an old microtech computer so will see what can get out of the old gear. Cheers Shane

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Jul 06, 2014 8:12 am

hope you keep us posted on the EA82 group A strip, was thinking they were all external mods such as ECU, exhaust with boost controller.....

FujiFan · Post by **FujiFan** » Fri Aug 22, 2014 11:14 pm

Ok, so finally an update. The older, more responsible I get the less time I have for hobbies and interests

I did actually fit the heads sometime in April, but its taken a while get the pics from the camera to forum (4months

:mad:)

And here is what it looks with the spider manifold sitting atop...

Apologise for some blurry pics.