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Hey everyone, just swapped the l series low range in my 4.11 ej dual range box. It lasted about 60km and now it won't shift out of low range, even from the gearbox. Anyone know what's wrong?

G'day Rcr46and2,

Welcome to the forum!

Good question. I know of one other member here that's had that issue but a) he's not on the forum much if at all anymore; b) he's in india now... and c) I can't remember how he resolved it - he did open up the gearbox though.

What I can think of is the dedent ball that "holds" the low range gear has been dislodged and the spring could be interfering, or there's something that's too close together interfering with the selector fork.

Best thing to do would be pull the gearbox out and open it up - that's really the best option as I reckon anything else would just be a patch if they were to work...

Best of luck, be sure to post up some images of what you find for future reference

Cheers

Bennie

El_Freddo wrote:G'day Rcr46and2,

Welcome to the forum!

Good question. I know of one other member here that's had that issue but a) he's not on the forum much if at all anymore; b) he's in india now... and c) I can't remember how he resolved it - he did open up the gearbox though.

What I can think of is the dedent ball that "holds" the low range gear has been dislodged and the spring could be interfering, or there's something that's too close together interfering with the selector fork.

Best thing to do would be pull the gearbox out and open it up - that's really the best option as I reckon anything else would just be a patch if they were to work...

Best of luck, be sure to post up some images of what you find for future reference

Cheers

Bennie

+1

would be looking at the selector fork internally ... sounds like it is jammed some how and hopefully not bent.

TOONGA

Hi and Welcome Rcr46and2

It would probably help to know what you did to make the EA82 Low Range gearset to fit your EJ Dual Range gearbox. Also what model EJ box do you have? Did you do the work yourself or pay someone?

Cheers,
Paul

Ok thanks for the replies everyone, cracked the box open a couple of days ago and found it was the low range indicator switch, it was bent and blocked the selectors fork from going into high range.
Don't know exactly want happened to it, but I have a feeling it was when putting the case together.

The length of the rod sticking out of those switches varies, looks you put one in with a rod too long.
Measure what you need it to be and fit the correct one.

tambox wrote:The length of the rod sticking out of those switches varies, looks you put one in with a rod too long.
Measure what you need it to be and fit the correct one.

That's the switch that came with the trans, took it out and replaced it with a plug, my car is a us spec single range outback. Now the trans makes a high pitch sound and doesn't like to go in either high or low range.

There are several different ways to do this conversion.
Please explain how you adapted the input shaft, selector fork and crownwheel.
Also did you drill the indents for the hi/low arm to click into?
You say its single range car that you have fitted a modified dual range into?

I asked the same thing Greg and got the same response. Looks like there was parts used from the EJ that should have been swapped over to EA

Sorry i forgot to say that I did it the same way Phizinza did. I marked each piece that I did not need and moved it to the side.

tambox wrote:There are several different ways to do this conversion.
Please explain how you adapted the input shaft, selector fork and crownwheel.
Also did you drill the indents for the hi/low arm to click into?
You say its single range car that you have fitted a modified dual range into?

Good points Greg

Rcr46and2 wrote:Sorry i forgot to say that I did it the same way Phizinza did. I marked each piece that I did not need and moved it to the side.

Ok.. Are you saying you got 2 of the same boxes as Phizinza and then built it into one box? We really can only help out if we know all about how and what was done. There is many ways this can be done and we would just be guessing at things without know how and what from the begining.

RSR 555 wrote:Good points Greg



Ok.. Are you saying you got 2 of the same boxes as Phizinza and then built it into one box? We really can only help out if we know all about how and what was done. There is many ways this can be done and we would just be guessing at things without know how and what from the begining.

Sorry I wasn't thinking, I'm using a jdm legacy d/r case and gear sets, and a non turbo l series low range gear set. I made a spacer for the ej input bearing to fit it on the l series input shaft, machined 4.25mm out of the protruding spline on the inner synchro, machined 3mm off of the outer synchro's diameter to clear the 4.11 crown wheel. I used the ej selector fork with modified feet to fit the machined outer synchro.
I took the trans apart a minute ago and found this



That's the one closest to the input shaft, the other side is fine.

Looks like the clearances were too tight. Have you got the correct shims on the front of the input shaft housing?

RSR 555 wrote:Looks like the clearances were too tight. Have you got the correct shims on the front of the input shaft housing?

Yeah everything was there, I just went back over everything, I put the other synchro from the other side and it felt like it didn't want to turn as easily as it should.

Rcr46and2 wrote:Yeah everything was there, I just went back over everything, I put the other synchro from the other side and it felt like it didn't want to turn as easily as it should.

Ok. Did you change the font bearing? Was it the correct thinkness? Sorry I can't remember how Phizinza did his box

RSR 555 wrote:Ok. Did you change the font bearing? Was it the correct thinkness? Sorry I can't remember how Phizinza did his box

Used the ej bearing and a sleeve made to fit the input shaft. Everything was checked in at the right size before I put it together.

You can buy a bearing that fits the L ID and Liberty OD, saves bushing.
The 3 pins that lock the synchro rings, are they the correct thickness as that varies between boxes.
As the inner of the synchro ring is not worn evenly across the face, it not sitting in the correct position or is the wrong syncro ring.
Are those wire "C" clips (tension the locking pins) in the right place and the right size?
Judging by the bending, its under a lot of pressure from the wrong direction, something is not lining up.

tambox wrote:You can buy a bearing that fits the L ID and Liberty OD, saves bushing.
The 3 pins that lock the synchro rings, are they the correct thickness as that varies between boxes.
As the inner of the synchro ring is not worn evenly across the face, it not sitting in the correct position or is the wrong syncro ring.
Are those wire "C" clips (tension the locking pins) in the right place and the right size?
Judging by the bending, its under a lot of pressure from the wrong direction, something is not lining up.

I couldn't find the bearing. The pins were the right ones, everything was right. I took a look at it this mornin and found the metal shim that goes on the input shaft on the outside of the casing was missing. So I'm pretty sure that might be what caused it, y'all think so?

Actually does anyone know where I can get the metal gasket for the input shaft housing? Mine somehow got damaged.

Sorry, from the damage it looks like much more than that.
Those gaskets are available in differnt sizes, for a reason.
Hammer is usually good enough for those gaskets, check elsewhere for load problems.