The AUSubaru.com.au Forums

As the heading says I have a 1990 EA81 Brumby, what I want to know is where the water pipe come out of the top of the water pump and goes back over the engine under the alternator it splits of to what looks like a water valve that operates on temperature then on to the bottom of the carby.
The valve is corroded solid so I have bypassed it altogether, my question is what is the purpose of this line to the carby and do you really need the valve?

According to FROG ...the dealership where he works, had a Brumby that needed the funny valve operational. to bypass it did something I cannot recall, nor could I understand why it did whatever it did. It'slike a bolt in a nylon housing and adjustable ? Comes off water pump to heater metal pipe runs over the block ....

FROGs wanted ad, mit diagram of this thermo control valve, and odd symptoms

showthread.php?t=24112

The water line to Carby is to keep the Air/fuel mix warm so it don't freeze - not sure its really needed here in Oz as don't get cold enough.

Not sure about the valve bit though.

Cheers, Bantum ...

Steptoe yes it is the plastic thing with the big nut on one end, but cant see why it would be needed, and what the big nut which looks adjustable would be for. have bypassed as it was blocked/corrode any way and will tell if I see any difference. Always had a problem in winter keeping it to idle until warm maybe by me bypassing it, it will allow the fuel/air to warm up quicker.

Water flows from the manfiold > through that little hose > into the steel water pipe > into the heater box

I always thought it was the other way around until I saw the flow diagram in my service manual. It's only for carbie pre-heat anyway many people just block it off.

Cheers SilverBullet have bypassed any way

Where is Andy ? He should be able to fill us in ....... he advertised a "wanted"

You've shut the carbie heat line off?

I removed that same adjuster, thinking it was someone's add on and have not had an issue with running in summer. I personally wouldn't run without the carbie heat line down in Vic - it gets cold enough to freeze the intake area there. Our VW paddock bomb had issues with this due to the exhaust heat line not working because it was blocked with carbon.

I'd still run the heat line in the southern states, bypass it in the mid north/northern areas of Australia.

Cheers

Bennie

not all to do with nearing the equator always, altitude makes things freeze up too - look at Stanthorpe QLD brrrrr

El_Freddo wrote:You've shut the carbie heat line off?

I personally wouldn't run without the carbie heat line down in Vic - it gets cold enough to freeze the intake area there. Our VW paddock bomb had issues with this due to the exhaust heat line not working because it was blocked with carbon.

I'd still run the heat line in the southern states, bypass it in the mid north/northern areas of Australia.

Cheers

Bennie

In my experience the carby heat line is not needed at all. Certainly Albury weather can be bloody cold and my EA71 with Weber has never had an issue starting.

Remember the manifold itself is heated with water which is not something you could say for VW (I am assuming it is air cooled?).

sublime wrote:In my experience the carby heat line is not needed at all. Certainly Albury weather can be bloody cold and my EA71 with Weber has never had an issue starting.

Remember the manifold itself is heated with water which is not something you could say for VW (I am assuming it is air cooled?).

I still have the little hose on there after my Weber swap, didn't get a chance to weld/plug up the hole. Heading into winter here now, starting is not a problem with the elec choke it fires on the first rotation pretty much. But actually driving it when it's stone cold it's nothing but flat spots and no throttle response until it warms up. The old Hitachi was not much better. Maybe if I put the exhaust manifold intake/air pre-heat hose thingy back on with the stock air filter it would be different?

Silverbullet wrote:But actually driving it when it's stone cold it's nothing but flat spots and no throttle response until it warms up. The old Hitachi was not much better. Maybe if I put the exhaust manifold intake/air pre-heat hose thingy back on with the stock air filter it would be different?

Interesting because my Weber was all about drivability! With the old Hitachi the car was impossible to drive when cold or warm. Basically different flat spots that seemed to last for minutes when cold and constant hiccups when warm.

The Weber was an instant improvement, zero problems at cold start-up and zero flat spots during acceleration, engine warm or cold. Just seamless and smooth acceleration. Relatively of course! After all it is still just an old EA71.

The fast idle on the Weber was a bonus too as you can start the car on the coldest morning, let it run for a short moment, tap the accelerator to bring the revs down and then let the electric choke do the rest as you drive. Could not ask for more!

I wonder if the jet sizes in your Weber are correct?

Well it came as "pre-jetted for the EA81" but didn't say anywhere what sizes were in there. Once it's been driven for 5 minutes it's great again so I'm not too keen on taking things apart to fiddle with jets right now.

Sounds Fine SB. I have jetted my Weber a few different ways. Run it rich enough and it will run fine when cold with no choke. At the moment it runs poorly until warm, but I have it set for a lean idle. Would be fine if I bothered to hook up the choke but meh, aint no body got time for that!

My cooling pipes, carby base heater line, funny thing Frog was chasing are all gone Car runs a tad cold and could probably use a hotter thermostat.

Doug