Brumby clutch cable differences

Get the most out of your Engine / Gearbox with these handy hints ...
Post Reply
User avatar
Silverbullet
Senior Member
Posts: 2874
Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2010 6:20 pm
Location: Adelaide

Brumby clutch cable differences

Post by Silverbullet » Sat May 24, 2014 6:30 pm

How long should it take to change a clutch cable on a Brumby? Well I've just spent nearly 2 hours cramped and twisted under the dash and still have the original cable installed. I've had this brand new genuine clutch cable hanging around for some time now thinking I'd put it in the MY wagon but that will have L series setup, and the Brumby has had a really heavy pedal for a while so in the ute it went or so I thought, see below...

Image

Two very different mounting systems for the pedal end of the cable; new cable above uses a clamp type arrangement with one bolt to tie the cable down against the pedal box. Old one below uses a flange welded to the pedal box, two big washers with rubber rings squashed between them and a brake hose style spring clip slid into a slot on the end of the cable to clamp it all together. They are not interchangeable. The one I have with the spring clip is well...frustrating is not the word. Bloody nightmare more like it. Trying to squash the whole lot together tight enough to expose the slot for the clip is hard enough, but with only room for one hand to reach that area you have to somehow slide the clip in with the same hand? Forget it! :evil: Ended up cutting one of the rubber rings out and now it's back together same old cable and the pedal is like a new car! :confused:

Anyway is this cable difference a year model thing? Is the clamp style from earlier or later models? My ute is a 1984 and my 1981 wagon had the clamp style bracket for the top cable. Is it a difference between wagons and utes?
Will it ever end!?
-EA81 TWIN CARB!!!!
-L series 5 speed
-Custom paint job
-2" lift
-Full custom re-wire
-L series front end
Image

User avatar
RSR 555
Elder Member
Posts: 6951
Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2007 10:42 am
Location: ATM... stuck in Rockingham

Post by RSR 555 » Sat May 24, 2014 7:51 pm

Yeah Sam the clamp style is the early one and did suit the earlier model Brumbys too but the later ones have the clip design. You can change the pedal box to suit? if you have time and patience
You know you are getting old when the candles on your birthday cake start to cost more than the cake itself.

RSR Performance
Home of the 'MURTAYA' in Oz
Subaru Impreza WRX based Sportscar
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Disclaimer: Not my website but hyperlink here to Subaru workshop manuals

User avatar
Nubaru
Junior Member
Posts: 165
Joined: Fri Jan 10, 2014 8:02 am
Location: within the girth

Post by Nubaru » Sat May 24, 2014 9:52 pm

Tut, tut ! Caught out buying non genuine - same here :( . From memory the one I got is exactly the same as you show - Flexible Drive Agencies ? is for the earlier EA81 4 speeds. Another few yoga classes and you will be able to tolerate the contortions I went through to make the after market one work where one original came out. Unsure how I added some fuel hose as a spacer or something, but it all did work well after a swear session.

I had no choice, original cable snapped on me, and it seems the cable makers still choose to supply a cable to suit 1980 to 1983 model rather than 1984 to 1992 makes one wonder uhuh ?
member since 10january2014 #6191

User avatar
Silverbullet
Senior Member
Posts: 2874
Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2010 6:20 pm
Location: Adelaide

Post by Silverbullet » Sat May 24, 2014 11:26 pm

Nope it was a genuine unit! I bought it a while ago, I think I must have specified 1981 year model when ordering since I planned to put it in the wags. But since my old cable now feels like a new one ( :confused: ) looks like I won't be needing a new one.
Will it ever end!?
-EA81 TWIN CARB!!!!
-L series 5 speed
-Custom paint job
-2" lift
-Full custom re-wire
-L series front end
Image

User avatar
Subydoug
Junior Member
Posts: 988
Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2012 10:19 pm
Location: Carlisle WA

Post by Subydoug » Sun May 25, 2014 1:13 am

Can't help you with the cable, but a small tip for working under the dash. Pull the drivers seat out, put some padding down and lay head first lengthways In the car with your feet up on the rear window. Sounds like extra work but the seat is only held in by 4 bolts. With my impact driver I can have it out in about 2 min ;). Certainly more comfortable then contorting thru the door.

Regards

Doug

Post Reply

Return to “Engine, Gearbox and Diff”