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OK, so Ive found a low km EJ22 to swap into my SF Forester. Now comes finding various bits I need to make the swap go smoothly & successfully

It already has a new timing belt (apparently) but I want to do the water pump as well. Also valve cover gaskets & plug seals, rear main seal & clutch kit. With advice from Taza, I got a EJ251 intake manifold, which breathes better & will give good HP gains over the stock restrictive intake.

I just need to know if there's anything else I shoud do & do I get a clutch kit to suit the engine or the gearbox? Has SF Foz box atm but will have a SG offroad box when I get all the parts together.

According to http://www.exedy.com.au/clutch-finder:
SF Foz: FJK-7115: 225mm diameter; spline OD 25.2/ 24 teeth; flywheel flat
BF6 Lib: FJK-6926 : 225mm diameter; spline OD 25.2/ 24 teeth; flywheel flat
SG Foz: FJK-7374 (SMF conversion): 225mm diameter; spline OD 25.2/ 24 teeth; flywheel flat

There's a heap of different clutch kits for the SG...very confusing lol

Also which injectors do I use? EJ22?

Parts I have or need:

• EJ22 ph I 121k kms '92 Lib - done
• Timing belt kit
• water pump
• valve cover gaskets/plug seals
• rear main seal
• clutch kit (SF Foz: Exedy FJK-7115)
• spigot bearing (6201LLU)
• EJ251 manifold - won't fit
• phenolic spacers (Grimmspeed?) - maybe later
• EJ20 Injectors cleaned
• Iridium plugs & leads
• knock sensor
• map sensor
• O2 sensor
• Swap cam sensor
• Swap crank sprocket
• EJ22 extractors (can do later)

Does your EJ251 manifold bolt up to the EJ22 block?

In my experience injectors should be matched to the capacity of the engine (i.e. 22 injectors with 22 engine). But will the EJ22 injectors fit the EJ251 manifold and the EJ20 manifold harness?

Does the PCV and vacuum plumbing on the various manifolds and engines match up? I seem to recall the pressure switching solenoid and some other thing on the back of the manifold that i can't name have changed a bit.

Good luck with it

Dane.

Use ej20 injectors as its only an ej22. Ej25D manifold.. or ej22. However cant use ej20 injectors on ej22 manifold.
Could be worth getting the injectors rebuilt as they may be leaking at this age.
Yes manifold will bolt on. Ej20 injectors will fit in ej25 manifold.
Use a standard or HD clutch kit to suit your ej20.
I have the 7115HD kit.
Get your flywheel machined.
Bolt ons are a good idea while the motor is out. I run the grimmspeed phenolic manifold spacers (gave heaps of throttle response), also have light weight pullies and an ugraded higher amperage alternator 120amps verse the stock SF 75.
Ej22 extractors will bolt on and are worth while in my opinion. Give more torque, the stock ej22 at flows better and being unequal length to a point give that boxer rumble.
Also fit new plugs and leads, knock sensor and a map sensor.

Timing belt will have to come off to change the to change the crank sproket. The ej22 one uses a different crank signal and ej20 computer wont register the degrees of the crank. The vehicle will not start at all..
In my opinion its worth doing all the extra bits and pieces now while its out. You'll then notice more of a difference and it will be good for many km.

GOD, yes the ej20 harness fits perfectly.
I used the ej25 fuel rail. But ej20 one should fit. I had to remove the carbon canister with my manifold swap.
Pvc system shouldnt be an issue.

Yes GOD, there'll probably be some differences that I'll just have to work through.

Thanks Taza, I've updated the list in the opening post.

Where did you get sensors from? I want to do the O2 sensor as well...and I know they can be expensive!!!

GOD, I notice you have had a range of engines in your L series..."1993 EA82/EJ18/EJ22/EJ22/EJ20/EJ22 L Series perpetual project"

Which EJ22s did you have & how did you find them?

As I need to do the water pump anyway & I dont know if the pulleys were done, plus I'm not 100% certain the Tbelt was done either (the guy said it "looked" like it was), I might do a Tbelt kit.

What do you think of this one:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SUBARU-LI...item2c7d433ebf

It says turbo, but so does EVERY other Gates kit lol. I called them & they guaranteed me its the right one, he thinks the turbo bit is a typo from Gates.

It includes the Tbelt, water pump & gasket, 3 seals, 4 pulleys but no tensioner.

Do I need to do the tensioner as its only done 120k kms or just wait for the next time?

Also, when doing the clutch, do I need to get a new clutch fork? I have bad clutch shudder & I would like to eliminate that as much as possible...

belt on its own

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TIMING-BELT- ... 4d31f40572

or the whole kit

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TIMING-BELT- ... 4d262b4885

or get one of the no name brands out of the USA for around half the price

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/90-97-1-8L-2 ... 20ca3d73d4

I got this kit for my Ej22 and I haven't had a problem with it

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-8L-2-2-L-S ... 20ec9c4352

came with a water pump but no tensioner and it is cheaper than what mine cost

TOONGA

TOONGA wrote:belt on its own

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TIMING-BELT- ... 4d31f40572

or the whole kit

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TIMING-BELT- ... 4d262b4885

or get one of the no name brands out of the USA for around half the price

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/90-97-1-8L-2 ... 20ca3d73d4

I got this kit for my Ej22 and I haven't had a problem with it

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-8L-2-2-L-S ... 20ec9c4352

came with a water pump but no tensioner and it is cheaper than what mine cost

TOONGA

I got a t/belt kit from the USA the tensioner only lasted 2 weeks sounded like i did a bottom bearing

Jan

Thanks but I would prefer to use a genuine or Gates timing belt. The one I posted is only $311 delivered so pretty cheap. So I think I'll go with that. The big issue I'm having is what clutch kit to get....

Got the Gates tbelt kit TCKWPT254, same as this but with a belt guide clearance tool:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/191080119...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

And this clutch kit, which has clutch plate, pressure plate, spigot & thrust bearings & possibly alignment tool:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221617862...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Still need to get a clutch fork & pivot ball & get the pressure plate ground when its out

Exciting times mate!

I hope it's all worth the effort! It's kind of same same different to the conversion into the L series, just with less wiring!

All the best.

Bennie

Part of the reason for the swap was watching how much low down torque you had pushing you up steep hills despite a heeeaaavy load

The EJ22 with timing cover off:


Removing the crank bolt was easy, the crank pulley took some wiggling to get it off:


Timing belt kit came a few days ago. I'm not replacing the tensioner, just the pulley on it. The kit comes with all pulleys, seals & water pump


The clutch kit arrived yesterday:


Just waiting on some genuine parts from Frog & a few other bits I need to get...

NachaLuva wrote:Part of the reason for the swap was watching how much low down torque you had pushing you up steep hills despite a heeeaaavy load

Don't forget about the L low range has a lot to do with that too. I still want lower for the climbing stuff

But I don't think I'm going to get that any time soon

I hope it gives you that simple boost in torque that you're after. Otherwise we'll have to make you boost it. Your ECU won't like you though!

Cheers

Bennie

The EJ22 as it was delivered:


As it sits now:


The crank sprocket was a real bugger to remove. The severe cold we've been getting has probabbly been shrinking it on. I soaked it in Penetrene over several days, but it still wouldnt come off. I bought a gear puller but the fingers wouldn't fit behind it.

So then I tried the WSM method lol. Large screwdriver either side and lever it off, it worked!

Today I'll do the seals & water pump, etc

if you are going to the trouble of doing all the seals then reseal the sump.

i did all the seals in mine a few years ago with the engine in the car. 50k later the only place that leaks is the sump.

It would also be worth doing the plug in the back of the passenger side head, the rear main, and the rocker cover gaskets while you are at it. So much easier with the engine out.

just thought of 2 more i had to do.

o-ring where the oil filler neck bolts on

o-ring where PS tank bolts to the pump

I've already got the rear main seal, and the rocker cover gaskets, as well as the bolt seals. Also the oil pump seal. I might do the oil filler neck seal as well, but the PS pump seal should be fine as that's my current one & has no leaks.

I asked at the dealership about the sump but he said there's no gasket for it???

Didn't know about the plug in the back of the passenger side head, is that easy to do and does it leak often?

if the plug is leaking replace it. if it isn't maybe don't bother. its possible to replace with the engine in anyway.

You should also check the inspection plate in the bellhousing when you do the rear main. Yours should be the early aluminium plate though and they don't seem to be prone to leaks.

Nah, it's not leaking and the parts guy said he's hardly ever had to get one so I didn't bother.

What inspection plate is that? The oil separation plate on the back of the engine? Mine is plastic but looks in good condition so I didn't bother with that either.

This is how I held the cam sprocket in place while I torqued the bolt. Using the OLD timing belt lol