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Anyone know where I could get a new oil pump for an EA81 MY engine.
I have a leak and I am guessing the spacer plate is cracked (like they do)
Either this or suggestions on good 2nd hand units please.

Frog
I am interested in the pump.
Does it come with things such as gaskets etc ?
I will need every thing that is needed to bolt straight on.
My location is Muswellbrook NSW 2333.
Let me know the total cost for everything and we will go from there.

Cliff add $17.40 for the gaskets and o rings
and $16.60 for TNT
so total will be $294
throw me an email with postal address etc if you want to go ahead

FROG

I have (hopefully) sent you a PM but I did it via an old message you previously sent me as I couldn't message you via your profile page.
Let me know if you don't get my message.
While we are at this, could you please let me know if you are able to supply the oil pressure gauge sender for an MY (EA81) ?
Having the gauge means I cant use the usual oil pressure switch for the light.
I know the gauge sender will be expensive and I could get one from ebay but I wouldn't mind knowing your pricing while I am getting the new pump.
Please message me with how to provide payment and if you can supply the gauge sender pricing and availability and I decide to get this as well as the pump I will get back to you.
Worst case, I will definitely get the new oil pump/gaskets/O-rings etc as if I don't do this I am only wasting time and money putting 2nd hand parts on. With an original 266 thousand ks on the engine an new oil pump is still very worth while.

pm replied

Sold!!

Can anyone comment on the removal/fitment of the new oil pump to then EA81 engine.
Do I have to pull the front crankshaft pulley or is this only necessary to make the job easier.
I want to find this oil leak one step at a time meaning I would like to replace the pump and NOT the front crank seal first up and then the crank seal next if the pump replacement does not stop the leak.
If I don't have to pull the front crank/seal I'm certainly not going to.
I appreciate the job may make it easier to pull the crank pulley but if easier is the only/main reason, I can live with this and leave the crank pulley in place.
Obviously, if the pulley must be pulled to remove/replace the pump I will.
I checked one of my manuals and it doesn't state the pulley must be removed.
I will check other manuals during the week when I find them.
I take it no joining compound is needed on the new pump gaskets ?

The crank pulley is not part of the front main seal, you can remove it without affecting the seal. Hardest part is cracking the main bolt but you can crack it with the starter motor; I just used a socket and breaker bar resting on the ground so that when you blip the starter it jams on the ground and loosens the bolt. Remove the coil HT lead or similar so you don't get spark

I can't remember if it is in the way or not, I would have thought it easier to remove it so you can get at the oil pump bolts more easily.

Never have I had the need to remove the crankshaft pulley to fit an oil pump on an EA81, have replaced 4 so far.
Sure, removing the pulley would make it easier, but from my experience it can easily be fitted with a little patience.

You can do it without removing anything, you can even leave the bash plate on (but removing it makes it easier). Removing the crank pulley also makes it easier but that is a job in itself and I would only do that if replacing the pulley/seal while I am at it.
Use a 1/4" drive ratchet with a small extension, one of the bolts is not visible but you can feel around for it. Leave the oil filter on as a handle so you can gently wiggle the filter up and down until it comes loose. It is recommended not to use sealants. And don't forget to prime the pump.

It is easy to tell if you have a front crank seal leak because the crank pulley will throw the oil out all around itself. You will have a line of oil on the underside of your bonnet and on your battery, charcoal canister, alternator fan, air box, etc.

You can also spot an oil pump leak sometimes since the oil is under pressure. Clean the area off and run the engine and you might see oil coming through the seals.

The three oil leaks I had on mine were, from biggest to smallest: oil pressure switch, front crank seal, oil pump.

Great info everyone, thanks heaps.
Always better to hear peoples actual experiences rather than read off a manual.
Just one question at the moment, how is the pump primed when it is inspalled ?
I bought and picked up a new front crankshaft seal today anyway.
For about $20 why not.
I have degreased the area and hopefully will get time this weekend to look further into things and maybe change the pump over.
I mentioned a leak could come from numerous places and as I have already changed over the oil pressure gauge sender I will see if this has had any impact on things.

I think I filled mine with oil first and then put some assembly lube into the hole that supplies oil to the pump. The oil pressure light went out while it was still cranking.

This is what it says to do in the "How to Keep Your Subaru Alive" manual:

"Hold the pump up to the case in its installed position. See the hole on the round part of the pump that matches a hole in the lower right side of the pump hole in the case? Squirt engine assembly lube into both holes. Also
squirt the lube into the two holes on the pump where the oil filter mounts. The assembly lube will prime the pump.
Put a dab of assembly lube or grease around the edge of the recessed hole on the back of the oil pump, then insert a new 0-ring in the hole. The grease will hold the 0-ring while the pump is installed. The 0-ring should fit into the recessed area of the pump exactly. If it's too large or small you've got the wrong 0-ring. Check this carefully-it's very important."