Brumby clutch

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David D
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Brumby clutch

Post by David D » Mon Mar 07, 2016 2:12 pm

Hi Everyone

Sorry my contributions to the forum have been minimal of late.
Unfortunately, I will most likely be trying to sell my Brumby this year. Before I do, there are a couple of things I'd like to sort out. The car is a standard 1987 Brumby, EA81, DR 4WD manual. I think it's original running gear but I couldn't know for sure.
One of the problems is a noise I get when I depress the clutch pedal. It's kinda like a dry, whining noise and, from what I've read, could be the release bearing. Does this sound likely? Seems to quieten down when it's warmed up.

The clutch has been a bit juddery when hot for a while now and sometimes squeals a little on take off (more so when hot).

I've almost resigned myself to the fact that I should replace the clutch but I'm not sure whether to remove the engine or gearbox. I've read that most seem to prefer to remove the engine but Gregory's manual says gearbox so I'm still not sure. I don't have an engine hoist or transmission jack. I do have an inspection pit in the garage but I'm not sure if that will help me out either way?

Any thoughts appreciated.

Cheers

David D

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JP147
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Post by JP147 » Mon Mar 07, 2016 6:00 pm

Best to remove the trans if you don't have a crane. Don't do it over the pit because you won't be able to line it up to reinstall it. You can do it on the floor with a normal floor jack, I have always done it this way, it just makes it harder and you will need some patience.

What I do is get the car as high as I can on 4 stands, pull the trans out with a floor jack, roll it off the jack onto some cardboard and then slide it out of under the car. Installation is a reverse of this but it is a bit tricky to put the trans onto the jack while under the car. If I have a second floor jack handy I will use it under the rear of the trans to get the exact angle I need for the spline to line up when installing.
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Silverbullet
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Post by Silverbullet » Mon Mar 07, 2016 6:30 pm

I've always done it with engine out, but a crane is almost an essential item for this. Sure you couldn't beg, borrow or steal one from someone you know? if you were near me you could borrow mine ;) Whatever you do, make sure you've got something to line the clutch disc up with before you try and plug the two back together. Having the clutch disc misaligned (it only takes .5mm out or less) can make a half hour job into a 2 hours job with frustration and swearing too. You can always leave the 6 pressure pad bolts loose, and try and use the gearbox input shaft to line the clutch up as you put them together but this isn't fun either and you have to tighten the 6 bolts one by one through the starter motor hole.

If you've got shuddering, might be worth looking at getting the flywheel skimmed while it's apart.
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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Mon Mar 07, 2016 11:25 pm

For piece of mind a new clutch kit would be the way to go - new pressure plate, throw out bearing and clutch disc should have you happy and noise free again.

As for the flywheel keep in mind what Silverbullet said - it may need machining. Personally I only machine if there are heat stress marks or small cracks present, otherwise it's straight in with the new clutch for me ;)

Being EA81 I'd pull the engine. But if you've got a pit and a mate or two that are willing to be a human hoist you can drop the box out the bottom and reinstall it as well (have a slab on hand for afterwards as this might keep your friends if the realignment part is a pain in the arse). Going this way will mean you'll be handling heavy parts above shoulder height.

Also replace the rear main seal while you're there - prime it with rubber grease so it doesn't chew out after the first 100km ;)

Cheers

Bennie
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David D
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Post by David D » Tue Mar 08, 2016 11:27 am

Thanks for the replies everyone.

Is there a clutch aligning tool available for the EA81?, I seem to recall that 'universal' ones aren't necessarily suited to these cars.
Transmission out might be the way to go I think, but if I decide to go the engine route I might borrow your crane, Silverbullet. I'm in SA, south of the city.
I noticed in the Gregory's manual, it says to discard some of the nuts after removing some of the suspension parts. I'm assuming that's because they have a nylon locking bit?
Now I just have to get motivated:rolleyes: and make sure I get the right clutch kit!

Thanks again

David D

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Silverbullet
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Post by Silverbullet » Tue Mar 08, 2016 6:30 pm

Oh you're south too! Sorry, whenever I see another SA member I automatically assume north :rolleyes: Send me a PM if you want to borrow it. Just for your information, the engine out route essentially requires the removal of 4 nuts and 2 bolts, none of them the locking type ;) Do you have power steering and/or aircon? that would complicate things slightly for this option. Also stay away from universal clutch alignment tools, they don't work. My favorite tool is an input shaft I carved out of a dead gearbox with an angle grinder, if you borrow the crane you can have that too :eek:

OH! one last thing, might be good to source a spigot bearing as part of your parts collecting. Available on ebay, nice and cheap.
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David D
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Post by David D » Thu Mar 10, 2016 11:09 am

Is it really that much easier to remove the engine? I guess it would avoid raising the car, removing driveshafts, tailshaft etc... No power steering or aircon either (much as I hate it in the heat, I'm always happy when there's maintenance to be done:)).
Thanks for the offer of the crane, I may be tempted now. And your home made input shaft tool - does that effectively act as a clutch alignment tool?
Cheers for the heads up on the spigot bearing, I'll add it to the list.

Thanks

David D

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David D
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Post by David D » Tue Mar 22, 2016 11:02 am

Hi Guys

I'm hoping to start gathering parts for this now. So far the list is:

Clutch kit (not sure exactly what is included with this)

Release bearing

Spigot bearing

Rear main seal.

I'm also wondering if I should try and source a second hand flywheel to swap with mine (just incase it needs skimming) to minimise downtime. Any thoughts on this?

Anything else I should add to the list?

Cheers

David D

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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Tue Mar 22, 2016 4:46 pm

Is the clutch shuddering? If not I'd bet the flywheel is ok to go as is.

But if you've smoked it a few times recently it's probably best to hae a second ready to go ;)

Cheers

Bennie
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Silverbullet
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Post by Silverbullet » Tue Mar 22, 2016 6:54 pm

A good clutch kit will have the release/throw out bearing included. I like to have a good flywheel ready to go in case of un-foreseen problems, you'll probably be ok without one if your clutch isn't shuddering atm as Bennie says.
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Post by El_Freddo » Wed Mar 23, 2016 8:46 am

There should also be a plastic alignment tool in the kit as well if you're lucky ;)

Generally you'll get the throw out bearing in the kit but will need the spigot bearing and rear oil seal from another source ;)

Cheers

Bennie
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David D
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Post by David D » Wed Mar 23, 2016 7:10 pm

Thanks again guys

The clutch does shudder a bit and has done for a while but usually worse when hot / warmed up.

Might try the wreckers for a flywheel unless anyone in SA has one they'd be willing to sell.......

Cheers

David D

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Post by steptoe » Fri Mar 25, 2016 7:35 am

my clutch shudders like nothin' else sometimes and at others is just perfect. Started doing it after about 20,000km or less, but outside warranty time frame. Never believe I have done anything to hurt it. Easter break a good time to pull it out to investigate but should have been armed with a machined flywheel to exchange in BUT have plans for a 5 speed conversion or two so not want to waste time on the EA81 4 speeder. Just expecting the easter rains to p1ss me off :( Need a bigger shed

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Post by El_Freddo » Sat Mar 26, 2016 5:38 pm

Steptoe if you double clutch and rev match all the time you might need to occasionally slip the clutch a bit more than normal just to clear out any built up dust on the friction surfaces.

This happens to me occasionally and with a slip and rev it usually goes away again for a period of time ;)

Cheers

Bennie
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David D
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Post by David D » Sat Apr 09, 2016 10:22 am

Looks like I'm gonna have to take it apart and see what clutch I have (diameter / spline count) before I order anything.

Been reading in the Gregory's manual and there is mention of replacing an O-ring on the flywheel. Quick search on here reveals this might not always be relevant. Is this something I should get 'just incase'? or will it be something I can get quickly if I need it like an ordinary O-ring?

Cheers

David D

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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Sun Apr 10, 2016 7:50 am

I have mostly reused my factory orange O ring - more a double O ring in a flat washer sort of seal. Packed with a little extra silicone :). Order one in from dealer, sit down before price given to you. Were about 20 bucks 18 years ago !

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auster
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Post by auster » Fri Apr 15, 2016 8:09 pm

has anyone seen the utube video of a brumby (brat) clutch replacement ? The owner just separated the gearbox from the engine with the transmission resting on a jack. There seemed to be plenty of room to replace the clutch with the engine, drive shafts etc in place. The gearbox cross member was removed and the tailshaft disconnected.

I was surprised the gearbox would move so far with the driveshafts in place.

And what are the specs for the clutch ?splines? diameter input shaft size?

Auster, sydney


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David D
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Post by David D » Tue Apr 19, 2016 6:01 pm

Yeah I think I've seen that clip. Pretty impressive.

Regarding that O-ring, I have been informed by Subaru that the part is no longer available so I'll just have to hope mine's OK.

Still not cleared a space in the calendar for this yet, (maybe it's fear stopping me!) will keep you posted.

David D

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Silverbullet
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Post by Silverbullet » Tue Apr 19, 2016 7:21 pm

I haven't had that O-ring in either of my cars for the last 2 times I've swapped engines, no ill effects so far.

Not sure why it's even in there in the manual.
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-Custom paint job
-2" lift
-Full custom re-wire
-L series front end
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Post by FROG » Wed Apr 20, 2016 10:45 am

David D wrote:
Regarding that O-ring, I have been informed by Subaru that the part is no longer available so I'll just have to hope mine's OK.



David D
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