Easiest way to replace diff stubs

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JP147
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Easiest way to replace diff stubs

Post by JP147 » Sun Apr 17, 2016 2:53 pm

How easy is it to replace these?

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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Sun Apr 17, 2016 5:40 pm

Easy - without the retainer bolt doing anything they should pull out with a bit of effort - one issue might be the remainder of the bolt could hold the left overs of the stub in place.

Either way it needs to be pulled outwards. It might be easier on a bench with a slide hammer and something jammed in the hole for the slide hammer to trip to.

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JP147
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Post by JP147 » Sun Apr 17, 2016 10:46 pm

I'll give it a go. I tried to take the retainer bolt out of my other diff to get the stub off that one but it was tight and snapped the extension I was using. I might bring home some better tools from work and give it another go.
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TOONGA
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Post by TOONGA » Mon Apr 18, 2016 10:42 am

Bring the whole diff home and put that one in, I can foresee way less problems. as long as it is the same ratio as the one in the car you won't have any trouble.

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Bantum
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Post by Bantum » Mon Apr 18, 2016 12:55 pm

This has a welded diff, cause and effect of broken stub. Will repeat same every time, as it's not designed for the load. You'll need one of them fangle diff lockers ... ��
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JP147
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Post by JP147 » Mon Apr 18, 2016 8:45 pm

I don't really want an open diff in it and I don't want to weld that one too, I will have a go at getting it out when I have the time.

I agree that welded diffs break stuff, but in a way they also prevent things getting broken.
On a track that is a challenge with an open diff, a welded diff is safer because it can be done slow and steady, without all the wheel spin and wheel hop that breaks things.
But with a welded diff, you are inclined to try much harder things which ends up with broken things.
A diff locker would be ideal, if anyone has one they don't need just let me know and I will take it off your hands.
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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Mon Apr 18, 2016 11:08 pm

I believe the RS liberty runs a solid rear diff stub - it needs a ring groove machined into the spider gear to hold it in place - on a welded diff that might be a bit difficult. Time for a second welded diff??

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legacytt
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Diff Stub

Post by legacytt » Tue Apr 19, 2016 8:08 pm

The stub is most likely held in by a torx bolt in the middle. You will need to undo this and it will come out easily. Need a long torx socket, 8mm from memory. Tom remove the remnant from the CV just punch out the pin.
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El_Freddo
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Post by El_Freddo » Tue Apr 19, 2016 11:55 pm

Hey Legacytt, looking at the pic I reckon the torx bolt is with the drive shaft...

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